Snagger

DON'T use EP90 in the gear box! ATF Dextron II and better still MTF 94 for LT77 and R380, but EP 90 is too thick. EP90 is correct for the transfer box, though, and for the diffs. More recent Defenders have W75 in the diffs and transfer box, but EP90 would be better except in cold climates as it does a better job of protecting the faces oft he gear teeth and has better impact resistance for the splines.

It's had a respray and has Series rather than Defender side steps, but it looks very tidy. I hope it is as good as it looks.

The gear on the spindle is just a piece of stamped steel sheet with an interference fit onto the shaft. Over time, that fit may slacken and allow movement between gear and spindle, causing the click. It could also be a loose adaptor on the outside needing its grub screw tightening.

I looked into Zeus brakes several years ago. They looked like a good option for Series Rovers, but I was concerned with how easy it'd be to source new discs. I seem to recall they were modified Chrysler discs with redrilled stud holes. If the 101 discs are similarly modified, then it's possible that a batch have been made slightly off spec with those results. That said, have they been made really hot and then suddenly quenched, like heavy prolongued braking down a long hill and into a stream of cold water?

I also have the Series type, as used since on the MoD and Camel Trophy vehicles. They lack the security of an internal release system, but they don't bung up with dust like the release cable. They can freeze up with ice in winter, but a couple of uncomfortable minutes holding them in your ungloved hands sorts that out (unless you have a better heat source available).

I had the same problem with new spindle boxes, cable and arms. Perhaps there was a little slack in the old motor and gear box unit, but it only became an issue over 40mph with a wet screen. In the end, I bonded rubber blocks tot he screen frame to inhibit the blades. Far from perfect, but it stopped the blades tearing from repeated over-run.

Lift kits. Did the MoD find the need for them? Did the Camel Trophy Defenders have them? That's how necessary they are. Fine for a rock crawler, but they're a hindrance for anything else; their fitment is almost exclusively an aesthetic choice for folk fitting oversize wheels and tyres which reduce grip, performance, stability, economy and agility. Still, each to their own.

Better still, make a copy out of camping roll mat, which is a denser seal and won't rot.

All you need is the longitudinal tie rod Ed mentioned - it is a steel rod that connects a bracket on the bell housing to the cross member under the back end of the gear box, with rubber bushes at each end, that prevents the fore-aft movement of the engine and transmission when the brake is applied. It more than doubled my brake effectiveness when I installed one. It was standard on MoD LRs but optional for civil. Dunsfold Land Rover will have all the parts, I'm sure, and it won't cost much money or time to fit.

You can fit the Defender seals, but will need to remove all the rivets holding the original seals in, not just he seals themselves, and will need to grind the lip of the seal mounting flange back to remove the 90 degree fold level with the inside of the fold (ie the fold itself needs removal to reduce the size of the flange or the door seal will make the door aperture too small for the door to close). You also need to look at getting the door tops to lean inwards correctly - they usually have gaps around the top,pattern door tops being terrible for it.

The cam followers could do with a flush of clean oil once you finish scraping (carefully) the carbon from around the tops of the bores. You could use decoking fuel additive neat to dissolve the deposits and wipe them clean (let it soak in for a couple of minutes), and I'd recommend doing that on the head and injectors.

The mounts sold by Richard are 2.5 spec, petrol, diesel and Defender 200 Tdi. They are manufactured by Bearmach and when I used them, were softer than Gen Parts (which caused terrible cab vibration). The square type are SIII diesel mounts, Series petrol mounts are circular but smaller in diameter to these 2.5 mounts.

There's a legal requirement on all private car insurance policies that the main driver must be the policy holder, but I have never come across this, even that year with Tesco.

One exception - Britpart CV joints are actually very good as well as cheap. But otherwise heed that caution!

Engine oils are meant to be replaced every 6k and transmission oils every 12k. To keep things simple, I replace the engine oil and filter every multiple of 5k and all oils and the fuel filter every multiple of 10k. The prop shafts are greased with the engine. You are right to check the oil condition and regrease the props if you have been wading. Don't forget to check the timing and fan belts. I also check lights and fluid levels every week, but that is only inspection, not replacement (unless there is a problem).

We used them for a factory standard 90 Tdci and got a premium under £200, but the clincher is that the car has to be standard. We had to move the following year because we added a snorkel and they insisted it was a mod rather than an accessory. Hastings Direct covered us after that for £220, including the snorkel, after some fairly firm but friendly negotiation. Both companies were good to deal with. However, I have also had high Flux renewal quotes in the past, despite being a loyal customer; they came down an astonishing amount when I gave them other quotes - it's worth shopping about every year.

I disliked Chris Evans early in his career, but I liked him once he got to Radio 2. I agree the Clarkson format won't work for him, and they should try something new, but I also agree that the Clarkson era was hilarious in the early years but was getting very tired in the last three series - it still had enough to be worth watching, but it felt very contrived and repetitive. I'll be giving both new shows a fair crack of the whip and wish them both well.

That's because your engine needs attention. I had a 12J in my very heavy 109 with big roof rack pulling the same size tyres and the overdrive was in use on all the level ground and most hills, and that final gearing isn't much lower than yours. Performance was far from startling, but it'd pull 4th with overdrive with that roof rack even in stiff head winds or up 1:20 slopes. Yours should do the same.

There are increasing numbers of shoddy Chinese counterfeit parts out there for all brands in all engineering applications (you'd be amazed how widespread it is in the aviation industry). Land Rover are no exception, so you may have been caught out by one. Then again, if you wade from time to time and aren't scrupulous about greasing afterwards, then that could also be a factor. At least Land Rovers haven't been done for faking MoT emissions tests, and haven't earned a reputation for going to full throttle, locking out the engine start/stop button and failing the brakes simultaneously.

Start with the simplest thing - check the wheel nuts are tight.

Faults don't occur without a reason. Track it down and fix it before it lets you down in a dangerous position - you don't want it failing on the motorway or as you pull out at a junction on a busy fast road.

Does anyone know how much the vertical and lateral distances from the gear box main shaft to transfer box output shaft vary between the Series and LT230 units? The engine and gearbox are mounted higher in Defenders, but I'm curious if the transfer box output shaft line is also higher.

My wife had a 2009 XS. The heater was great initially in the cold, but even on the lowest fan setting and a medium temperature selection, it'd be stifling. We could never get a setting that worked, so had to keep switching it on and off. So, no, you are not the only one who didn't think much of it. The aircon was good, though. Anyone think the older seats were comfier than the taller Puma type? I couldn't get on with them at all, but found the Defender seats in my 109 absolutely fine...

Leaking return lines will cause some problems, but usually more associated with starting - a leak will allow the fuel to drain back down to the tank when the engine is off, so the system has to self purge before the engine will fire. This includes those irritatingly perishing-prone black braided hoses that join the injectors (have a roll of that 4mm hose handy from Halfords; it's far cheaper than buying the whole assembly from LR and is a simply cut and fit affair needing only a pair of scissors to do). I agree that the biggest factor is likely to be bad wiring or a loose terminal on the wiring to the fuel injection pump, displaced by hard water splashing into the engine bay. That kind of playing can cause considerable damage and, and potentially a loss of control (aquaplaning or even shearing the steering rods), so don't do it on the roads. Do whatever you like on private land.

That is a good vintage for Defenders!