Big_John

Hi All, Just wondering what sort of grease I should be using for the prop shaft UJs Etc. and for wheel bearings. The old tin I have in the garage is 'general purpose L2', should I be using something a bit more special? Thanks, John

Quote from someone on another forum, claiming to work for Halfords... Sounds like the Kenwood is definitely the way to go!

Just wondering if anyone has noticed a difference between the deterioration rate of differing colour landys? Mine's red (as per the avitar) and soon after getting it I was chatting to the local indepent garage he noted on the condition saying that red ones tend to do better than some other colours! Now I'm quite aware that he could have been feeding me a line in the hope of some sales coming his way, but was wondering if anyone else has noticed any difference, maybe due to using a different type of undercoat or something? Just curious! Cheers, John

Looks good to me. Is it still yellow on the inside? Can see a bit of yellow here and there so i assume so. initially I had great plans to respray mine something a bit more subtle, but the effort of sorting out the inside has put me off.

I'd second that. When I was looking round last year I was told in no uncertain terms not to go anywhere near them! Shame, 'cos they always have a good selection of stock. I would definately follow up that MOT issue, maybe a bit late to take up with the authorities now, but a word in his shell-like should see a significant refund I'd of thought...

That makes sense, anyone care to guess why the plonker that fitted mine (previous owner) drilled two large holes in the bumper instead and mounted them there - thus leaving the mounting brackets on the A bar resplendent in their unused shininess? Oh, and then never wired them up, presenting me with a tesco's bag of wires and relays when I bought the motor!

Thanks chaps, just what I was looking for. The screw jack doesn't appear to be available anymore...looks like an auto-jumble visit is in order!

Hi All, Bought my 1996 300Tdi 90 last year and I've seen various references to a tool roll/kit which would have come with it when it was new but is completely missing, can anyone tell me what was in it - only thing i've worked out so far is wading plugs. Also I assume a jack - what type? I've got a high-lift mounted in the back at the moment, but it's a bit OTT for everyday emergency wheel changes (well, not EVERY day, you know what I mean!). I'm sure there was a reference somewhere in the handbook to a wheel chock that should have come with it? If anyone can shed any light it would be much appreciated, also any idea where I can get one - are they still available from the main stealers? A quick google returned loads of unrelated stuff. Thanks all, John

I have to agree with Shrek, see my post above ^^^ Post No. 22

Personally I fitted the expensive lock and folds from Exmoor working on the same theory as Jimmy that it was better to spend the money than risk the kids, also as the seat belts are built in to the seats and not attached to the sides/roof of the Landy it means I can take the roof off without having to worry about the seat belts (still gotta worry about my belt of course!). The seats themselves are pretty solid - they weigh a ton and seem to be pretty well made with nice chunky feeling folding mechanism. When I get a minute I'll do a proper review of fitting them - which was not as straight-forward as it would first seem! In summary, nice seats, not sure they're worth £500 a piece, but I guess there was a significant amount of development and testing done on them.

Just to clarify for others in a similar situation, the government webiste western mentions (http://www.thinkroadsafety.gov.uk/campaigns/childcarseats/faq08.htm#08D) specifically says: So, depends how old/tall your child is! Mine are well under this, therefore expensive front-facing seats in the back for me

forgot to say...got mine from the autotrader, was also looking for local stuff on Ebay (ALWAYS view and drive before bidding) and in the local paper. Autotrader and Ebay both have email alert services which you can setup to save you having to look through every day - sometimes they do miss the odd one or two though!

Hi emslandy, Having just spent 5 or 6 months looking for a 90 myself, I'd offer the following: Always get underneath the vehicle and check the chassis for rust spots and repairs - you'll be surprised how many have problems but you should be able to find a nice 300 tdi without any problems for that price, possibly a good Td5 if that's what you're after - and don't take the advertisers word for it - I was lied to on a number of occasions! Off-roading is often noticeable by looking for dents in the chassis and underside components such as exhaust and fuel tank. Obviously they are designed to go off-road, but if it's caused damage like that then it's been pretty serious and you should take care that everything is still straight (chassis, suspension, steering) and nothing's worn too badly. There will be quite a few about that haven't been off road at all. Take as many as you can out for a test drive, even if you've already discounted it because of it's general condition - you'll soon get to feel what good steering feels like, what the suspension should feel like, how the engine should pull, how noisy it all should be, that way when you find one that looks good you will have a fair idea of how it should drive. Always check the service history. Through asking about and reading a number of sources, I've come to the conclusion that regular servicing of the diesel engines is very important and it's amazing how many of them don't have any history at all. For the price you're looking at, a 300Tdi should be in very good condition inside with all the switches and controls working properly, no problems with the chassis and the bodywork should be in pretty good condition as well - maybe a couple of coin sized dents and the odd spot of aluminium corrosion at most. I would echo alantd about not going for the first one you see - the first one I saw I thought was great, fortunately a mate of mine with a great deal of experience came and had a look at it for me and put me right, I know realise that it was an absolute cash black-hole and would have taken ages to get up to scratch. I got a 90 300 Tdi hardtop in October, chassis and body in v.good condition, 100k on the clock, full service history, cabin in generally good condition but the heater controls don't work properly and the seats are a bit tatty - nothing too bad, including some off-road kit for £5.5k - I think I was lucky though and would estimate it's worth nearer £6.5k judging from others I've seen. A genuine station wagon is going to add a couple of thousand to that, not sure about 110's - possibly slightly cheaper. As to engine choice, personally I'd say if you're planning on DIY'ing then probably go for the 300Tdi and maybe have some cash spare fix any slight issues - replace torn seats, fit a tow bar Etc., if you're happy to take it to a garage and pay for any work then possibly spend a bit more and get the Td5 - the issue there being the electronic engine control which you need a computer to diagnose any problems. I'm by no means an expert, just spent a few months looking...hope that helps!

You should be able to, however a set of 3 barrels & keys is only around £10, so might as well replace the lot with new ones. Like this : On FleaBay On mine the back door opened regardless of whether it was locked or not, so had to replace the whole handle mech + got a new barrel as the old one already had it's own key and it was only £3 for a new one! Incidently, does everyone have a different key for the ignition and doors or is it just that mine have been replaced at some point? John

From what I remember of my old Morris Marina (only just getting back into DIY mechanics after 15 yrs of owning less user-servicable motors), if they're not bled properly then yes, the pedal will be spongy, it shouldn't go all the way to the floor unless they weren't bled at all or you were doing something majorly wrong. I assume you're not actually losing any fluid? If not then the pipes and connections are reasonably sound. Could it be the master cylinder seals? Have a look here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5300 Not sure how you'd confirm that's what it is. If it was the servo then wouldn't the pedal be just as hard to press with the engine off or on? What happens if you pump the pedal a few times with the engine off - does it go hard half way down as you describe for engine on? The brakes should still work without the engine/servo - just you'd have to stamp on 'em harder. I'm by no means an expert, it could well be the servo for all I know...just trying to understand! John

Any news on this Dave - did you get it sorted, what did it turn out to be? I also bought a '96 90 300tdi a month or so ago so very interested... Thanks, John

Cool, I was thinking trip computer, but this is obviously a tad more than that!

That's kinda what I was expecting, there's nothing on the VIN plate...is there another plate?

Excellent, thanks chaps

Sorry to go slightly OT, but where'd you get the screen from and how much? (or was it fitted but not working?) Gotta replace the seal on my screen, figured I might as well fit a heated one whilst it's out ...

Thanks chaps, knew someone would know! Some more pics... (aint she lovely!?!) I think the side panel on the drivers side has been re-sprayed, it's slightly different.

Ok, I know it's red, but I can't very well nip into the shop and ask for a tin of red paint and expect it to match, so is there a code anywhere I can look up? It's a 1996 90, did they come in more than one shade of red? The only info I have is from a paint suppliers web site which said it might be Monza Red (BLVC 590) anyone know if that's right or how I can find out for sure? Thanks, John

Hi Leigh, I don't feel qualified to 'welcome' you as I'm a newcomer myself, but good to have you along all the same. Can you tell us a bit more about the carputer...sounds interesting. Thanks John

Thanks for the info Bill - much appreciated, looking forward to those photos too! John

I thought the restriction on driving with more than 8 seats (or was it 10?) is only for driving in europe, or is it the weight of the vehicle you're refering to Colin? John