bushwhacker

Just seeking advice on whether to keep a gear box that is popping out of reverse for spares or to refubish. I had driven the LR it came out of on many occasions and this was its only fault. The transfer box came out of a 300tdi 90 I had bought and had seized striping teeth of a couple of gears. Don't know why it seized. I am thinking there would be specialist tools and pullers to do the strip down which I don't have. Regards Mark.

Well switch CDU 51 is definetly longer than AMR 3918. Copper washer an I should be sorted. 😎

Mine is MA95 that was the reason I went for the AMR3918 ordered the other pt no so I"ll be able to compare. Not gen LR mind you.

Mine is MA95 that was the reason I went for the AMR3918 ordered the other pt no so I"ll be able to compare. Not gen LR mind you.

Thanks Western, I managed to find that pt no also on the retroanaconda parts list. Had thought about a blob of weld, but knowing my luck it would break off and jam up the gearbox. 😭 Thanks.

Hi part no was AMR3918 definitely came with an o ring, Haynes refere to a sealing ring I suppose it could be metal or rubber there was no switch in the gbox at all just a plastic bung . I will try and measure depth I can put a rod in the switch orifice out of rev and in rev. Thanks.

Hello to all. I put a new switch in for the rev light but it would appear the plunger is not being pushed in when I select reverse. I have screwed it in all the way to the black o ring. The switch works ok out of the gbox. Has anyone come across this before. The plunger protruds 6mm at the end of switch, does anyone happen to have one lying about they wouldn't mind measuring for me. Regards Mark.

Sounds like a fluid leak. Check the brake fluid reservoir. You might have a seal gone either the master cylunder or slave cylinder. Good luck.

Got it sorted 4 new earths 1 for each indicator of the body this time and back to normal flashy flash. Relief, now just need to keep it like that and see if I can get an earlier mot than 16th April. Big thanks for the help guys.👌 One to remember for sure. 👍

Thanks. No LEDs, I hope to get a look at the earths later today.

Thanks All bulbs are flashing I have changed them and the fuses. I have put all new lights and sockets on and rewired the rear wires that cross from offside to nearside as they were blackened. I removed a black wire as I hoped to earth through the chassis what you have explained makes a lot of sense as to my problem. I'll be putting a new earth in tomorrow where would be the best place to bring it from the one I remove was not connected to any thing at the front.

The above has cropped up with my 1995 90 just as I am on the push for an mot but I can't find the cause of the fault. New indicator stalk fitted, relay swopped and hazard switch changed over with my 110 parts still fasty fast but ok on the 110. I have done the checks from the Tech forum everything seems ok. I do not know where to go next. Any help would be appreciated guys.

Update for anyone interested. Done some adjusting at each tres and darg link tre also used 2 ladders along the tryes which gives a good guide also made up a threaded rod with an adjusting end. Gap is now down to 7/8 mm not pefect but allowing for rubbish tyres that may have bulged I am going to go with it is for now until I get new tyres on. Thanks to all for input.

They do not stay on in 200/300 Def or 200/300 Dis. It's to alert you that you are on main beam. You may have a bad earth or live rubbing on something go to the area you have been working as a start point. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Right got the wife's extending mop shaft out (less the mop bit) done the front of the front wheels and the the back of the front wheels. I am getting approximatley plus 15mm difference at the back of the front wheels. So as it had looked the passenger front wheel needs to come in at the back or out at the front (this should bring the line in at the front of the passenger rear wheel) which is the way I think I will adjust as the track rod ends on the track rod are both nice and even. Unfortunately I ca'nt try this out until Sunday as we have a forest event on Saturday. I will keep an eye on wear. I bought this 90 as a complete unknown and I am just sorting it out for an MOT. I hope this makes sense. 😵

The 15mm gap is only at the left side of the rear passenger tyre as you look at it everything else looks good. Completely standard set up. Yes it was Hybrid's mini tech I was using worked very well for my 110. 👍 I'll do the measuring on the front wheels and see what I have. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks for the replies, the 15mm is on the rear passenger tyre. The fronts are even on the tyre front and rear of driver side and passenger . I'll run it how it is and see how it goes. The 90 was a fixer upper new tre's and track rod and a shed load of other things. 😢

Been out with the spare washing line no string or electric wire available. 😋 So I have the line touching both front and rear of each front tyre center, on the drivers side it is ok on the rear tyre but on the passenger side the rear tyre is approximatly 15mm from the line to the front of the tyre. Do I need to adjust or is it ok as is?

😜 I just clicked on your reply and had to think what it was about for a minute. 😜 Yes Vaseline or grease. 👍

Here are the rails, I have spread the end of the one on the right to get the inner slider out as the nut serts have fallen out. Could be akward tring to keep the four ballbearings in place. 😲 Any thoughts anyone ?

Good result there, and I am happy to know I'm not the only one who wonders where the time goes.

Hi. Try to have another person with you, one at the top and one underneath. Also try to turn the engine over slightly via the crank pully to help the splines engage. Try with a jack under the front of the engine so to slightly tilt it down at the back. Honestly two people make a big difference. There is a point on the transfer box if you bolt in an eye it will balance both boxes quite level it's either the top left or right bolt to gear box. Good luck

Yes they are basic but I wanted to separate the sliding rails its a rail within a rail that have the cross handle to slide the seat forward and backward. They have ballbearings down the inside to aid the sliding of the rails/frame but there are little notch to stop them falling out.

Hi to all and everyone, can anyone tell me if the sliding mechanisim inner rail can be taken apart? It can be hacked apart but that is not what I am after, trying to do a refurb on my seats.

Hi, I found that fitting a new stat if the coolent was of an unknown origin or how long it has been in and ratio of anti to water (they say distilled water is also better) that it can also affect the temp readings. If it's not over heating does it matter?