JST
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Posts posted by JST
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my original team mate (Dan) has a knackered vehicle and i have now teamed up with Darth for the event.
James his co driver is now co-driving with Will Warne
Dan is now contemplating coming down for the event if he can blag a seat with someone - so does anyone else need a codriver. let me know soonest and i will pass it onto him so he can resort hsi weekend plans.
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gurantee you will be pleased with them better top end cruising as well, once you get upto speed, 10% or less engine revs i reckon over 7.50 or235/85s.
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Tim - you still up for it?
Bos - any news yet?
Time can you drum up any more local support as 3 vehicles would make a better day of it.
ScottyDo is going to Co-drive with me for part of the day, so will need to factor in collecting him at some point.
Have a route sorted which starts near Trebles Holford and moves across to finish near Dulverton. Although we can do it the other way around if you would rather - your Wellington way aren't you?
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thats a valid point the difference in a truck cab heating up and demisting compared to even a 90 Hardtop/CSW is amazing, due to vol etc..
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i ve just added extended bump stops to the rear of mine after trashing a +2" shock with top drop mounts.
well i think that is the reasons its gone although another side of me says it coul dbe due to the fact it has no boot or cover on the plunger(?) and that has become very pitted. the one on the other side is (was) fine. they were Procomps ES9000s. now its got some td5 90s on it until i can get hold of some more es9000s.
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if your just down the road you must be local. fancy a trip out on the 1st Sep, exmoor, local lanes, theres room for a vehicle or space in mine for a passenger.
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dont think i need totouch that then if it just does the free play as it was ok before so no reason that it would have got tighter here.
had another play with the column UJ, with them all slack (eg all nuts undone) the steering is def lighter. tomorrow i will try and get them off to check properly.
is there an easy way to do, move them all towards the steering wheel end was the latest i had heard as the PAS box has the shortest spline so best one to remove first.
anytips?
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if thats to me, not John then deal done, i will let him know.
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i have tried it with the drag link disconnected from the passenger side wheel and the wheel is still difficult (or harder than it should be) to turn lock to lock, as the drag link is disconnected i feel this eliminates the ball joint option as that ball joint (the one in the drop arm) is not actually connected to anything other than the drag link with a free end.
i tried taking the damper off (again) which as expected made it easier, but still too stiff
next i tried lossening all the UJ in the steering column which again made it easier but still too stiff.
any other ideas?
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Will or Si
yep i have spare very willing winch bi**ch.
he was due to be in my team mates vehicle but now my team mates vehicle is knackered he cant make it , so i am now teamed with Darth, leaving said spare winch bi**ch.
Hes done a couple of challenges with me but nothing too serious. i am desperatley trying to find him a seat/team as i had sort of promised him a place in my mates wagon, which now cant happen
My intention was to bring him over to Tonys on the Fri night and 'hope' that someone would turn up less co driver.
i guess from the post Will you are now sorted so that leaves Si?
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the steering has been getting gradually worse on my 200tdi, 4 bolt box. turning left is not as bad, but turning right seems produces two points of high resistance.
the pas res. has been leaking which to me suggests pump etc is working hard to overcome the resistance and excess fluid is coming out of the top due to the greater than expected resistance.
jacking it up and removing the wheels i cant turn the wheels from lock to lock (but i am only little!)
remove the front drag link(?) and wheels turn fine lock to lock by hand, with the expected resistance suggesting the preload is fine.
pushing or pulling on the drag link (or which ever one it is) difficult.
damper has been changed - no difference.
i have checked the UJs on the column and they 'seem' fine, that is they seem to rotate no problem, but i havent disconnected them totally to check.
which leaves the box. anyway to test it? can you loosen it off? whats that big nut on the top do?
my intial thoughts were the steering column UJs as the stiffness seems to be in the same place per steering wheel revolution when turning right.
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Hi all
When I fitted front tubular turrets I could only go to - 1 inch with the OME dampers & std bump stops. This allowed for 1 1/2 inch of bump stop compression before the damper bottomed out. If this happens then the damper is finished as I was told that there is a valve in there that gets damaged when this happens and is not repairable on OME but is on Koni & some Monroe.
Fitting longer bump stops will reduce articulation, but with BIG tyres then it may stop them fouling the eyebrows.
'longer bump stops will reduce articulation'
how? agreed the axle comes up and hits the bump stop but does that then not move the vehcile up/change the angle of the vehiclle?
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no, i have replaced the door latches with the older syle for simplicity and ease of fitting. i also wanted to sell the old doors complete, plus without fabricating one there isin't a door handle (lift up type) on the back of my old handles so i would of had to have made something up.
door tops from Ace Rocky mountain - new, double sliding windows and bloody expensive IMHO
door bottoms came from RIPLEY off this and the last forum. 2nd hand excellent condition bar the DPM.
i purchased the door latch, lock barrel and handles separatley for about £20 ea i think then fitted the barrels to the door handles myself. Door pillar (B pillar) needed no extra drilling the mouting holes although different to the anti burst ones were there. (common top hole)
i can take some specific pics if your interested. let me know
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i guess it would cost me a bit in fuel to get to this one then..............
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theres actually a pub quite close to Tonys (country wise speaking that is) its just past the narrow bit and marks where you turn off, before it gets narrower which is before you turn off that 'main road' onto the bit that even has a sign that says its going to be narrow.........
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simon,
yep will be going to Tonys, if you could bring some along that would be great. 800 by 400mm would be ideal 2 of.
i will go for that and some panels, will have to see what halfords have around.
many thanks
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i think theres a supermarket somewhere in the South West.........................
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Les,
no worries will look out for prices etc.
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so i had better get on an order something fro Craddocks and ask them to pack it in polystyrene foam i guess.
polystyrene looks the way fwd then.
cheers for the tip ref the windows sills and drainage, mine have already got the said hole!!! they camel like that.
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i have just fitted a set of split doors (eg sliding removable windows on the top) and was thinking of putting some trim (chq plate) on the inside to make it double skin etc
any suggestions as to what would make a good insulation material to sandwhich between the chq and the door bottom? it will be to keep warmth in and reduce nosie, or is it not worht the effort?
it also needs to be waterprrof, non absorbant.
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a futher splitter box would also complicate fitting etc possibly needing remote linkage for g + T box etc. i for one would consider the PTO blot on, easy to remove option over a splitter box.
but agreed a splitter box keeps the PTO option open for a winch or . over drive!
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Les,
i am intending to go to the show, will then see you at Tonys'
what size you after, i will ask after prices if required 35"?
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i have always run std and pretty much swear by them, they last, absorob bumpers and keep things tight when no worn out.
however for offroading i am 'trialling' some blue polybush (£100 + VAT) i paid, so far they are good although i have done about 2k on them. they are soft enough to flex allowing articulation etc but firm enough for holding the road. i think red could be too hard for atriculation plus i beleive whilst htey improve road handling they transmit alot of the bumps to the chassis etc.
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firstly can stick on number plates be used?
secondly where does the number plate have to go, is it just a case of being fully visible from the front or does it have to be on a leading edge eg bumper, bonnet.
just thought i would try here before nipping down to see the local tester.
Air Compressors
in International Forum
Posted
i paid just under £200 for a 2.5hp, 50L one 12cfm from Mole Valley. Northern Tools and Machine mart are worth looking at. Machine mart seems to have the best options. upright ones seem to be more popular now, or at least gaining in popularity.
if i purchased again i would get the same spec but a 100L tank - although that takes alot of room.
make sure you get a decent air hose as well - eg 10mm internal bore i would recommend.