blz6662

Hi All, I'd just like to say what a great post this. I will be undertaking the very same task on my Salisbury shortly so this is all extremely helpful. Anyone got a spreader for sale? Cheers Baden

Hi All, Just wanted to know where I can find fitting instructions for fitting the ATB in the LT230 and also the diff version. I see plenty of videos out there but can't find time to watch them, I need to do stuff! Before I buy either / or, I want to assess if I have the skills to do this job myself or send the LT230 and front diff to Mr Ashcroft's team to do. The project is (keeps dropping down the list doing other's series rebuilds), 88 Rangie Classic V8. I have a freshly rebuilt R380/LT230 from Dave ready to go in, but now I've looked at the transfer ATB I want to have one fitted before any lifting/refitting starts. I need to upgrade the front diff (10 spline) so I have a selection of really good front 24 spline diffs I could use and fit the ATB along with the usual HD halfshafts/cv's/mod stubs etc. Rear axle is an disc braked 8H Salisbury off a 96' Defender 110. Thanks in advance Baden

Hi All, OK, this was it, my last go at solving this one. Tried the 2 pin modes above and still the needle hovers around 750 rpm and no movement when revving the engine. So, back tracked and rewired in on all new direct connections my old 'el cheapo' unit previously fitted and when fired up the needle hovers around 3500RPM on idle and spins up to max when lightly revved. This is what it always did, first put in the 1 amp diode - result smoother needle same readings as above. Took that out and put the 20k pot in 2 pin mode and no change at any point on the scale so no good. Right then, one more go, disconnected the Flame Thrower coil and fitted a good DLB198 Lucas 1.5ohm coil as fitted to my 92 disco. Connected up with new Durite tacho standard wiring set-up, no gizmo's, fired up the engine and the tacho did the same again and stuck at 750RPM with no movement on revving. So went though each method again and same result - GIVE UP. The truck has no starting or running issues with either coil and is as sweet as' so time to stop. I don't like being beaten but this has, so this might be a reference guide to anyone with the same set-up as mine. Thanks Fridge for all your help. Cheers Baden

Hi Fridge, I did first of all, try the last 2 options. I'll try the others and report back.

Hi All, OK, here's the latest. Removed the diode I previously trial fitted so all connections restored to original. Wired up the 20k pot. 3 pins facing me, wired the left hand pin with an earth lead, centre pin from negative coil connection (input signal) and right hand pin (output) to rev counter. Result - Nothing!! - no reading, not a blip. Tried various dial positions throughout the range and still nothing. Last attempt, swopped the input / output wiring over - (which would be full ON anti-clockwise) - and yes you've guessed it - nothing. So what am I doing wrong. I think I've given up with this unit and I need to carry on finishing the outer wiring jobs on the truck and put it back in circulation. Got to get the Sankey on the back and get more logs in ready for 'that' time of the year. Any answers gratefully received. Baden

Hi FridgeFreezer, thanks for that, I got it in the post yesterday so will give it a blast asap and post up the results. Kind regards Baden

Thanks for the comment, I've just bought a 20k linear pot, so I'll update when I get it and give it a go. Or perhaps fit a clock instead😀. Any other suggestions welcome. Kind regards Baden

Hi smallfry, The 1.5ohms matches the electronic ignition so ok there, although I did wonder that myself, any ideas welcome. 3 ohm is not suitable from the info I have double checked. Fridge I'll move the diode to the gauge and try again. If I have to fit a different one it will be in the cab. This was only a quick trial to be honest. Maybe I should think about a counter suitable for the alternator W terminal and stop wasting time. I could try the coil one on my series 3 swb station wagon which is standard on points (at the mo).

Thanks guys, Progress last night, I went back through all the connections and tested them and all ok. So I decided to try a more direct earth and 12v supply, result still nothing. In the kit supplied with the counter is a 1 amp rectifier diode and I put this in a jumper wire between the coil negative and the green wire. This is sometimes installed for points type ignition, but thought I would experiment and see what happens. Started the truck and got a reading although low, tried revving it but it stayed fairly constant at 750rpm. Maybe I'm onto something. On the other side of the instructions it talks about a 20k resistor, 3 amp universal diode and 20k linear potentiometer so maybe I need to try down one of these routes. Cheers Baden

Yep, that's the one and I bought it from VWP. Coil get 12v from ignition source to to amp. Negative at the moment to the amp and that's it, as simple as that. Connected green to negative on coil to the lug where the old rev counter was connected (this always read high so replaced with Durite). The alternator fitted has a W terminal, but can't connect as this is a sine wave signal, so no good for my coil type. Thanks for the replies so far. Bigj66 - no ECU carb fed. Cheers Baden

Hi All, I'm hoping this will be a simple one with the install of a new Durite 52mm 0-8000 rpm coil fitment rev counter. The truck has a 3.9 V8 fed via a Holley Truck Avenger Carb, sparks via 1.5ohm Flamethrower coil to a Lucas 35DLM8 electronic distributor and Magnacore leads. No issues with the running of the truck, I just wanted to replace the dodgy chinese rev counter that read all over the place so I bought a Durite one for coil pick-up. The problem is, after following the install guide (pretty simple stuff) and checking all the connections - green wire to negative side of coil - the rev counter is not working, not even a blip. Double checked all connections - rear of unit on selection for 8 cylinders, still nothing. I did contact Durite direct and no reply. Should I have an earth lead from the negative on the coil direct to the block as well? Currently negative only has a connection to the electronic amp on the dizzy. Any Ideas? Kind regards Baden

Hi guys, Measured the R380 from front of bell housing to the face of the transfer box rear output shaft and got 950mm (give or take a couple). Did the same with the LT77 in the vehicle (V8 by the way) and got the same measurement, so thanks again Fridge for you knowledge. Over thinking things again! Cheers all Baden

Thanks Fridge Freezer, That makes sense (for once). When I get a chance I'll measure them. regards Baden

Hi All, I've got a completely rebuilt R380/LT230 gearbox (by Ashcofts) to replace my worn out LT77 box. The R380 is from a V8 3.9 Disco 1 (97) and the RRC is 1988 EA Chassis and I was thinking due to the R380 being 30mm longer will this affect the propshaft lengths? I can't seem to find a sensible answer to this. Some say the front is the same but as my Rangie is lifted I don't want issues. Over to you guys with the knowledge. Cheers Baden

Hi Snagger, That's really good info, I'll have to rethink my projects now armed with that knowledge. I've been reading your website and great work mate. Lots of great articles, help and useful features, keep it up. At the moment I'm about 75% there with a series 3 SWB Station Wagon rebuild which I am trying to stay focused on and get it finished, but my forlorn looking series 2A keeps looking at me saying 'what about me'. Anyway, thanks again for that. Kind regards to All Baden Just for interest, a few of pics of my Hybrid.

Thanks Snagger, That was what I was thinking as the only way out. Anyone know if it's been done before? I've currently got a 109 Salisbury on the 88" truck with shortened prop and works fine, but the main reason for the change is to get the 3.54 ratio, plus the disc brakes. Anyway, I have decided to abort this mission and fit front and rear axles I have spare from a pre-ABS Range Rover Classic. This Salisbury will get all new coil spring brackets welded back on and go onto my 100" hybrid once it has eaten the current 10 spline diff. Some pics added for errr info and reference so nobody else makes the same mistake. Lastly does anyone know a company that could perhaps change out the CWP for a 3.54 set-up in my current 109 Salisbury? Cheers All Baden

Hi Guys, I was having a good day at the workshop BUT I've just finished cleaning up all the old welds to make this a viable transplant into my Series 2A V6 powered SWB!!!!! Having measured up for the spring saddles I've now noticed the position of the offside saddle sits on the cast diff unit (omg what a k**b I am). Can I ask is there anyone else out there as stupid as me to try this upgrade to gain disc brakes -not thinking the extra offset of the diff due to the A Frame! If there is a polite answer please enlighten me. This might end up on my Hybrid (not electric) 100" range rover/2A. Your most humble Baden

Just thought I'd add some pics for reference. Hub had quite a drop of water in it so defo new bearings required to the parts list. What's your thoughts on the stub condition? Replace or clean up? Cheers Baden

Thanks guys, Mystery over, bolted on caliper brackets. I did clean the axle tube up this morning with a gentle abrasive mini disc but nothing appeared in the ways of any numbers. I'll post a pic later. Cheers Baden

Hi Guys, I don't normally post in this section as I don't have a defender, although I have most of the others! oh dear too many toys! Anyway I picked up this Salisbury last week advertised as suitable for a 110/130 TD5. I'm in the process of giving it a good work out and convert to sit underneath my 2A Essex V6 powered SWB. The problem is I'm not 100% if it is from a TD5. Before I buy any new bits I need to know if it is a TD5 or 300tdi. The question is what is the difference between them as Bolt on Bits are selling an axle kit, drive flanges, halfshafts, gaskets etc. Advertised as 1 kit for the TD5 and another listing for the 300tdi. I have asked them the question but no response yet. The axle has a common number on the casting which looks like 18H6, but the tag is well too rusty. Can any of you guys tell from the pics if this is a TD5 axle. Apologies if I have posted this in the wrong place Cheers Baden

Thanks Guys, I might start a new thread on Series 3 resto then I can back track what I've done so far - Loadsa piccy's. Finished a 2a for a friend not so long ago and that's got some interesting 'before's & after's. Kind regards Baden

Hi All, Some more pics to bore you with. I'll go away and just get in with it now. Thanks for all you suggestions and comments. Cheers Baden

Hi Gazzar, Hopefully mate yes. Anyway some various pics as promised on the tooling and new components. I will put some more up showing the pedal footwell repair needed after digging into it plus the LOF Brakes. Cheers Bade

Morning Guys, Bleeding update. As stated, went to the 'shed of dread' last night and checked the plumbing, tightened all the fittings then tried something new! I bought a Laser bottle mini pump (small not car) and reverse bled the system using my repositioned bleed nipple location and after only a few pumps I'm seeing fluid in the reservoir. Continued until nearly full, tightened the nipple and Heeaaay Got Pedal. Started her up and went though the gears no problem - Happy Days. Result. At last! I do think the culprit was the over tight bend in the first pipe I made, maybe a combination, don't know for sure. Anywhoo, I can move on now and rebuild the swivels, replace the steering rods, bump stops and front shocks now. I must say the clutch is a lot lighter with the LOF Powermaster cylinder. Going off the subject I also fitted the LOF Overhaul FR & R Brake kits from Paddocks and they are a quality item and recommended. As promised I will post some pics as soon as I can get them on my PC - I'm old skool and still use my camera for workshop pics. Cheers All Baden

Hi All, I've removed the hardline to the flexible and remade it as one of the bends was a bit tight and may have caused a trap. I've also now made and fitted the bleed port pipe to a remote/ easier position so all I need to do now it to nip up all the connections and try again. I've got some pics to put up but my card reader failed so awaiting a new one. Back to the workshop tonight and will report back. Cheers Baden