blz6662

New hard lines, made myself from 1/4" copper. The blue box steel one in the kit wasn't even close! grr, what a surprise. I'll check for kinks, also if I'm going to drain down again I'm going make the remote bleed nipple pipe assembly as quoted as an optional extra.

Most kind Gazzar, This is my second new slave. The first one came in a blue box and things were worse! See how I get on tonight. Cheers Baden

Hi Gazzar, I forgot to mention that the bleed nipple is on the top, slightly obscured by the lower feed pipe (new). I use a a half moon spanner to get at it. I'll post some pics of the install later tomorrow. This is the first LOF Power Cylinder I've used and wonder if it is an issue with that. I hope not it wasn't cheap. Cheers Baden

Hi All, Having a bit of a nightmare trying to get a good pedal on my SWB Station Wagon 1977 and wondered if anyone has used the Phoenix Systems reverse bleeding kit. I've fitted a new master cylinder (LOF Power Master), new hard lines, Goodridge Stainless Flexible and TRW slave cylinder. Master set up in the box to give the required 1.5mm clearance on the piston and the foot pedal set at 140mm from the floorplate. First I tried Vacuum bleeding using my tried and tested (many many times) clarke pneumatic vaccuum bleeder and pushed about half a litre through - this gave about 1 inch of pedal. Truck raised at the front on ramps. Second attempt pressure bleeding from the master using my fancy full sealey kit - used on the last couple of 2a's I've not long completed - Perfect. This still only gave me a bit more pedal but still a good bit to go. It will engage the gears but the bite is just off the floor. It's just not good enough. I've also tried bracing the pedal down for a day and a bit to see if any air will rise, but no better, so getting frustrated now. I'm going to try the one man bleeding kit via check valve into a bottle technique from operation the pedal as I think it's air in the master. I can't clamp the flexi aand test as I have fitted the goodridge hose! Soooo! is the reverse bleeder thingy any good - it's not cheap for a plastic jobby and read various reviews both good and bad. Let me know guys as I need to move on to other jobs, not had this with any other landies/rangeys I've owned or worked on. Cheers blz6662

Thanks for the responses guys. TSD, one for you how did the LT77 short bell housing mate to the V6? Did you use an adaptor plate? I was wondering if I could use my Steve Parker adaptor currently fitted to the 2A box, perhaps modify that. I need some info in mating these together and I might go for it. As stated previous I have a really good R380 with V8 bell housing on it from a 3.9 disco and every time I walk past it I keep making mmmm? noises, wondering! I also have a spare LT77 from a 87 3.8 V8 range rover doing nothing. (I do like the feel of the LT77's). Any guidance on required items to make it fit would be gratefully received. Cheers blz6662

Hi Guys, Thanks for your comments so far. I've checked the box currently fitted to the engine and it is also a 2a number 254***** Suffix F so in 2A choices this should be fine as it didn't have any issues last time I used it. Onto the series 3 box, I've attached a pic with the serial number but can trace how old this is due to it being a factory rebuild. There are no other numbers anywhere except the usual casting numbers on the RHS of the main box. Any ideas anyone. Cheers blz6662

Hi All, I'm having a few indecisions with this one. This landy has the Ford V6 (tuned by Specialized engines) fitted and is fresh and not run yet. I now have to fit a new chassis as the original one has gone past the new sections/patches stage. The engine is fitted to the 2a gearbox (Steve Parker kit) and Fairey overdrive and ready to go. Gearbox is working fine at the moment. Rear axle is a normal ratio 109 Salisbury/shortened prop. What I'm trying to decide is now everything is going to be refitted to the new chassis should I fit the good spare Series 3 gearbox in place of the 2A box. I'm not sure of the suffix on the fitted box at the moment (need to check when I get the seat box out), but I do have the Original box that I took out sometime ago which is a 2A box Number 254***** Suffix F. I am thinking about rebuilding this if it would be stronger than the Series 3 box. Also on the shelf I have an R380/LT230 from a V8 Disco 1 which is in top working order. Don't really think I want to go down that route as it's not a stumpy input shaft. Let me have your thoughts on this chaps as I'm wanting to get it right first go. Cheers blz6662

Hi, I have checked them yes, but although there is no play in them I have a feeling the diff end UJ is dried out and starting to break up. It's been getting worse every time I go out so I don't want to use it until I solve it. I'm fitting a new UJ in my spare propshaft this evening, which has also broken up on the diff end, although the rest of the prop/slider is working fine and Slider UJ is perfect. I'll give them a re-grease before fitting in place of the current suspect one. Cheers Baden

Both Swivel housings, bearings etc. recently rebuilt - 1000 miles ago approx. Checked bearings again before going down prop route. This is the only thing not renewed on this truck. All bushes replaced and still good including top and bottom shock bushes. Terrafirma Big Bore shocks and Bearmach Blue springs all good condition and working correctly. Cheers Baden

Thanks Nonimouse, my replacement shaft is forward 1 spline out of phase already so see how I get on when it fit it. The existing one fitted is also the same 1 spline forward. I have one other theory of the wobble and that is the tyres are now 12 years old Insa Turbo Dakar 235/70 x 16 on standard alloys. All balanced recently and tracking checked. Maybe they are getting hard due to age (🤪 sorry about that) Cheers Baden

Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone has fitted a wide angle propshaft that's available off the shelf to replace the solid shaft standard type on the V8 Disco 1 auto (200 series). The prop on mine is suspect and I'm getting serious vibrations at 45 mph (all front axle components are rebuilt/replaced and set up correctly), therefore looking to see if an upgrade was available. The truck has a 2 inch lift on the suspension side and QT 3 degree castor correction arms on polybushes. I've looked at the Terrafirma one and the Gwyn Lewis 1310HD Series propshafts and queried with Gwyn if it would fit (which he is awaiting more info from me). On inspection my findings are the prop is 610mm closed (+2mm) and the truck is running extended to 630mm. The slider end on the transfer box is 45mm diameter which is running about 20mm above the tubular crossmember, the solid shaft is 30mm diameter and runs 50mm away from the cats (centreline of shaft to side of cat), which is close. The prop angle all seems to be at the slider end with the diff end almost parallel. I have a spare shaft off a 300 series 3.9 v8 manual and the measurements are the same. I plan on changing the failed joint on that and swop them over if no upgrade is available. I also have another 300 V8 3.9 auto on site and this also has the same shaft with little clearance to the side of the cat. Maybe I've answered my own question but interested to see what you guys may have done. Thanks in advance Baden

Hi everyone, Hopefully this will be an easy one. I need to replace the rear crossmember on my series 3 SWB and need to know who is making the best fitting one's with extensions. I've looked at the SP Panels crossmember and it looks the business. I've bought from them before and very pleased with their products (door tops fitted great with no issues). Many thanks in advance. Baden

Hi, Please follow the attached from the manual. Works every time. If you are vacuum bleeding then no problem, always done it this way without any issues. Cheers blz6662 range rover classic non abs brake bleeding.pdf

Hi Guys, Can the upper tank strap be replaced without removing the petrol tank? I discovered the lug attachment that is welded to the chassis on the drivers side is no longer welded to the chassis. Therefore I've cut out all the rot out of the chassis and made up at repair plate with a new mounting plate on ready to accept a new lower slotted bracket for the strap. On inspection and bending the strap out of the way it may last another year or so but wondered if it was possible to undo the strap from the near side and pull it through so I can replace it now while I'm in there - as they say, who ever they are! Thanks in advance blz6662

Hi All, Just thought I would share these items I bought for my Sealey pressure bleeder. Proper screw on cap and connecting pipe - Yay! I still had to make an adapter pipe from my kit to this pipe but that was easy enough with some tubing tails. Just in case you can't read the part numbers for the Lucas cap and pipe on the pics they are: Pipe VS0208.08 & Cap VS0205.05 Available from CCW Tools. There is an alternative cap for the other make VS0205.04. This might be better in the Tools n fab section. Cheers blz6662

Hi All,A good while ago I bought this Kismet 279 ramp of a guy that was closing down but although I have seen the ramp in action when I came to pick it up most of the copper pipework was cut, bend or missing. I wish I had taken some photos when it was working and fully plumbed.I'm now trying to recommission it and not entirely sure what goes where although on the main control block there is existing pipework to the foot valve and I know the flexible that goes to the beam lifting valve on the ramp. I've searched for a hydraulic circuit diagram for this but no luck.I was playing with the idea of using flexibles on all the connections but not sure if I should just replace it with copper. The fitting size is 3/8" bsp and the copper pipe is 3/8"o/d (10mm) thick wall - 7mm i/d.From the pictures I'm hoping someone can help. I'm in the process of drawing up a circuit of how I think it goes but I think there maybe a couple of directions it could go. Just wondering if I should go pump connection straight to cylinder foot valve or pump to the control valve on the column.Once I have completed the 2 versions I'll post them up for comments but if anyone has the knowledge then please help.Many thanks in advanceblz6662

Hi All, I've just about completed a mechanical rebuild on a 68 series 2a and ready to use my new sealey pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes only to find the adaptor won't screw in properly. Does anyone know of an adaptor cap for the the standard reservoir cap. I thought I'd seen one advertised recently but can't find it now. I've got one of the universal chain on adapters and when I fitted it the connection has a quick fit coupling on it and wont fit on the bleeder, so again need some sort of adapter for the connection. I don't like the universal adapter much and afraid it might slip under pressure and spray fluid everywhere. Thanks in advance Baden

Thanks for the comments guys, I'll work my way through your help and update. Yes steve b the return spring is fitted Thanks Baden

Hi All, Just bought a nice unmolested original Station Wagon SWB 1977 with only 46k on the clock. My problem is with the clutch which on first press goes down to the floor with good 'feel' and returns fine, BUT on the next press of the pedal, it only goes down half way and goes solid. If you try again still goes down but same place with a very solid feel, no give at all. If I leave it and try the next day, first pump goes to the floor as normal again but second pump same symptoms. The last owner, who is a mate of mine, informs me that before the truck was put into storage a new clutch kit / master and slave cylinder were fitted and only covered a couple of hundred miles. It has been dry stored for quite a few years now so initially thought about stuck clutch plate, but I'm not sure that's the case. Anyone else experienced this before? Just to add I've not started the truck yet as we have a spark (or no spark) issue. I'm awaiting on a new coil/plugs/points etc. to arrive then I can get it running at least. New battery and new fuel primed and present. Thanks in advance blz6662

Hi All, I've got a 68 series 2a in my workshop I'm restoring for a friend and the front leaf springs are shot. This petrol SWB has a Capstan Winch sat on the front and wondered if this has not done the standard front springs any good. It is well down on the front and the springs are well past it, rusty and flat. Just to futureproof it I had a thought to maybe fit Diesel SWB front springs on it. What your thoughts on this one Guys? Thanks in advance Baden

Hi Guys, I've got a chance on a 4.2 V8 from a broken LSE and the engine number strangely starts 'S40D*******. I know that the 40D is the correct number for the 4.2 block but I'm wondering what the 'S' is in front of 40D. Anyone know? does it mean it may have been remanufactured. Thanks in advance Baden

Thanks garrycol, that looks like the solution Kind regards blz6662

Hi All, Got a strange one here, every few days or so (well, random really), when I turn the ignition key to position 3 starter position I sometimes just get a small whine and no turning from the starter motor. When I turn the key back to zero and try again it catches straight away and starts up. Very occasionally is will whine twice on trying. It's getting a bit more regular now and worried that that starter will just give up. By the way the car has got a brand new Exide 900 battery fitted. Do you think it's on it's way out, and what makes the whine - perhaps solenoid? I'm thinking of getting ahead on this and buying a new starter and replacing it sooner rather than later. Which starter is recommended and what are these £70 2kw upgraded motors like you see on ebay. Don't really want to pay for a genuine one but don't want a 'carp' one either. Thanks in advance blz6662

Hi, Just FYI - 9mm seal Part no. FTC3401 on FA to WA chassis. with or without ABS Cheers blz6662

Hi there, yes that is correct, I have a 1992 KA Chassis V8 that uses the thinner one if that helps. The 12mm one tends to be found more on early Range Rover Classics Good luck blz6662