blz6662

Hi Marc Did you get my pm - just checking Baden

Hi Guys, I'm sure some of you have had this problem. First the Hybrid is a CA Chassis 86 with a 12L Suffix A Front Axle. Here's the problem, on rebuilding the front hubs I found I need an off-side half shaft Pt No. 606662 - Now unavailable although Rimmers offer an AEU2520P as a replacement. Therefore I bought this and guess what? Yes it's different and the bronze collar sits in a different place - grrr. Can't find a 606662 anywhere, what are the alternatives now everything is apart? Can I change the half shaft and cv joint & spacer to the EA Chassis onwards - Parts RTC5840 / RTC5843 / RTC5841. Do I need to change the stub axle as well? I assume the swivel ball is the same. I do have front and rear 24 spline diffs & shafts from a 1998 Disco 1 with ABS which I had ear marked for another project. If I'm forced to use these then what shafts, cv joints and stub axle do I need? Cheers Baden

Hi all, Does anyone know if RPI Engineering stamp their own number on the V8 engine blocks . I've been treating mine to a new valley gasket and noticed a number stamped on the rear of the block that reads RPIAH********9. Would that be their number? The normal engine number is still present in the usual place and in this case the engine is a 3.9 litre 47A***** 9.36:1 Morgan engine. If it is their number then I hope I can get a build spec off them for interest value. Thanks in advance blz6662

Yeah, all hoses, stat and fan changed. rad in good condition and not sludged up. Just needs an upgrade as the needle runs 3/4 up the gauge when running around in it. Engine running like a gud'un no issues. Cheers

Hi All, Need some advice on my hybrid running too hot. It's a real Bitsa this one, 84' range rover chassis, defender front end and series 2a everything else. Fitted 3.9 V8 fed by Holley Truck Avenger. My idea was to change out the radiator for a 3.9 range rover rad I have on the shelf but once the tape measure came out it was obvious it was not going in. Too wide (but I could solve that with a bit of fettling), but mainly too deep at 400mm core depth. The one that's fitted is only 300mm deep and much thinner. So can anyone suggest a suitable rad that would fit in the defender front end and no taller than the 300mm core with top left inlet and bottom left outlet (as you look in the bonnet) to suit the V8. I don't mind spending to maybe get a bespoke aluminium made up as long as the capacity is right. Thanks in advance and apologies if I should have put this in the Special Build section blz6662

I've got a 87 classic with 4 " lift plus the cranked radius arms front and rear and running 33's. This is working well by fitting a twin shock kit front and rear using 2 bilsteins shocks at each corner - handles fantastic. Had a few mates who thought is was the end through a few interesting flowing bends at speed - just smile and wave. It's a great towing truck also. Might be an option

Thanks Bowie69, good news - best get on with it then!

Hi All, To start, sorry if this is a dull question. I have a Disco 1 1997 V8 donor vehicle with an extremely good steering box (straight arm STC2846) which I want to fit to my Range Rover Classic 1987 V8 EA Chassis. This vehicle has the bent drop arm NTC1580 steering box fitted. I need to do a quick swop without getting into 'drop arm wars' so the intention was to remove each box with drop arm and steering bar removed at the passenger side (Disco has 4 ball joints total/Range Rover 3 ball joints). Then refit onto opposite vehicles as I need to move the donor Disco around the yard. So, will these boxes exchange ok with their relative rods? Also are the splines the same on these boxes as I will fit the correct drop arm and steering rod at a later date. The Range Rover is not used on the road at the moment just estate duties. Thanks in advance blz6662

Hi Guys, My Disco was fitted with a new engine at 45,000 miles before I had it, due to a cracked block and the engine has a number YM00MO7L1. Out of curiosity I would like to know who the supplier/remanufacturer is. Any of you guys see this type of number before? Cheers blz6662

Sorry about the title Guys - Should be Disco 1 temp gauge reading. Must sharpen my fingers

Hi all, Can anyone help with a small niggle with my 3.5 efi V8 (1992 hotwire auto). After getting the old girl back on the road and flying through the MOT I've done a few hundred miles (a good shakedown after major refurb) and all good except one small niggle. Initially the temp gauge always held steady right in the middle of the gauge as previous refurb, but over the miles on start-up to the first opening of the stat the gauge climbs just a couple of mm above centre line (nowhere near the next mark though). After this it tends to drop back almost to centre but not quite, so I fitted a new genuine 84 degree stat as already fitted. After bleeding out the air and having a good run it's still the same. I have now run the truck about another 150 miles since then and is still the same, although the needle is not getting any higher in traffic or under load. Just this couple of mm over centre and almost bang on centre. Any ideas? the system now has new antifreeze, no movement or noise from water pump, radiator in excellent order and new top & bottom hoses. Could this be the water pump loosing efficiency or something else I need to prepare for. The Disco is running beautifully, smooth, no missing etc. Thanks in advance for your thoughts blz6662

Hi all, Just require your comments or thoughts on this one. Currently rebuilding an EA Chassis Range Rover Classic currently fitted with it's original 3.5 V8 efi (Flapper) engine with manual box and have the chance of buying a cheap scruffy 1997 Discovery 1 3.9 V8 efi (Hot Wire) also with manual box. The engine and box are in fine fettle and has an mot for about six months, but it will fail the next one on welding (lots) plus various other problems. So my intension is to strip the Disco and transplant the 3.9 complete with it's loom etc. into the Classic. Does this seem a feasible thing to do as the 3.5 is past it's sell by date and needs a rebuild. Cheers blz6662

Hi sierrafery, All done and working perfectly. Many thanks for your help. If any of you guys get a similar problem don't spend loads of time and money searching and replacing good parts, just do the live test down each circuit and if you get what I had rewire to 2 circuits. Not too bad a job but does take a while to do properly. Cheers blz6662

Yep, I'm back again! Spent hours yesterday trying to trace the splices, unwrapping insulation tape, removing conduit etc and managed only to trace to a blue multi-pin plug for the front RH indicator and a white multi-pin for the front LH indicator. To test the connection to the RH pin I ran a direct live and the front bulb failed to light. Did the same on the LH side and the bulb lit up so all good. This leaves me with the task of finding the repeater lights and the rear lights splice/connection points. To be honest with finding a problem with the front RH circuit from the multi plug I am tempted to forget the search and just run complete new cables to front, rear and repeaters from DF1 as the task is so time consuming, cable carnage and awkward. Because the hazard switch DF2 is one unit with DF1 stalk I'm assuming the link wires GR & GW are built into the switch unit and not actual wire runs. Note also on the Land Rover Manual diagram I attached, they have actually got the GR &GW the wrong way around!! Let me have your thoughts on this one before I upset anymore wiring Cheers Baden

Great, thanks for your help I'll just need some luck finding the joint. I'll start at the stalk and work my way forward. Tried doing it from the engine side earlier and got lost. I'll let you know how I get on. Once again many thanks Baden

Ok, Here we go again - Snagger checked the wiring up to the bulkhead, undone some of the insulation tape local to where the indicator harness is bound to the lighting harness. Nothing visible so checked under the bonnet for dodgy stuff and again undo/inspected anything sub standard but no joy. Went through the live feed to each technique again - (As previous the plug was disconnected from the indicator stalk and live feed down each side). This time as before GW wire lit up all lights. Retested GR wire and all lights came on as per GW wire! Maybe my earlier test connection wasn't good enough. The other thing was when I disconnected the live link wire the clip and wire were getting really hot after only a 20 second test each side. Just for info there are 2 GR wires in the one pin (factory fit - not an add on) and only 1 GW wire feeding the other pin. Checked voltage with the connector plugged into the stalk and operated each indicator side - 12volts each. Sierrafery, your wiring diagram is very similar the the official manual.

OK, now fitted a 10A fuse and this is the result. GW wires powered up - ALL lights come on including repeaters GR wires powered up - Nothing at all, not even a glimmer or glow from any light. I've just been looking al the loom plugs and checking earths under bonnet and wings looking for the obvious but now found anything yet. Can you suggest the best way forward for me to go in order to trace this fault. Cheers Baden

Right, here is the result from your test sierrafery. Gave direct feed to the green and red wire via 5A fused link - fuse blew immediately. Tried the same test on the green and white wire - guess what yep, blew the fuse straight away. Excuse my electrickery ignorance but not fully sure what that's telling me. Do I now have to unwrap the harness for those wires to find a short or is there a quicker way to solve it? i.e. run new wires. many thanks for the help so far. Cheers Baden

just returned from the workshop after going through the tests in the Land Rover Workshop manual and all test ok proving the new stalk/switch is ok. I'll try your direct 12v trick and see what I get. Thanks for that, I'll update later Baden

Hi Bowie69 This is the early type with the top mounted hazard switch integral with the indicator/lights/horn stalk, hence changing the whole thing out for a new Lucas unit. All flashers operate at normal rate in each mode (No LED bulbs in the system either - just standard)

Hi there, The dash lights flash indicator and trailer warning light in all modes. All outside lights flash both sides as per hazard mode when indicating right or left. Yesterday I unplugged the trailer harness and still the same warning lights on dash and all external lights flashing on direction indicator or hazard mode. Also tried the same thing having removed the trailer fuse - same result! Really got under the dash and did the 'wiggle' test of all the wires in each mode and all remained stable flashing all corners/side. Could there be a fault in the ignition switch? By the way it doesn't blow fuses at all therefore no short circuits and just to say again ALL other electrical systems are working perfectly. cheers Baden

Hi guys, Problem update, so far changed out the indicator/hazard stalk for new Lucas one. Tried that and same problem. Changed the flasher unit for a new one - same problem - grrr. Renewed the trailer socket and traced wiring for damage and tested socket - all working correctly apart from power to both indicators on right or left stalk position. I've now removed the steering wheel and stalk shrouds to get a better look in. Inspected all plugs, connectors to each bit of hardware including the alarm/immobiliser unit and all in great condition. I'm really stumped now, but talking to a mate with the same model/year/V8 etc. and he has exactly the same problem !!! I've now contacted a mobile auto electrician guru who will be with me next week for a look so I'll keep you all up to date if we have any luck. This is now obviously a problem that has not occurred during mechanical repair due to the fact my mate has the same problem, therefore please let me know if you have any theories as it's driving me mad. Cheers All Baden

Hi Guys, Anyone had this one before? 1993 3.5V8efi auto KA Chassis Just testing all the lights before final prep for mot and I'm faced with this. Tested side, head, tail, fog lights and all good to go. Tried hazards first all good, tried right hand indicators and ALL lights flash at normal pace, dash light works but trailer light on as well. Repeated for the left hand indicators and same thing. Stopped car, operated alarm/central locking and indicators all flash 3 times correctly. Pressed remote again and started car and tested again, same thing.! To be fair the car has stood a while in my dry workshop whilst carrying out various repairs/servicing etc. No cutting or carving of any wiring undertaken though. A couple of years ago I did fir a new indicator/hazard/wiper stalk assemble (Lucas) and all worked well. Just wondering if it is the flasher unit sticking or perhaps the contacts in the hazard switch (as I pressed that first before trying the indicators). By the way the horn and wipers work fine on the stalks. Lets have your thoughts guys.

Hi folks, Need the best technique on this one please. Recently removed the LPG system on this Disco due to failure of various parts and now need to change out the heater hoses which have tees off them for the LPG. Currently I have just cut the hoses off close to the tee and blanked them off, but I want to tidy the job up and replace with standard heater hoses. The existing are looking a bit tired anyway so got to go. Now I have removed all the unnecessary wiring/components (The car is currently running perfect by the way), it still seems extremely difficult to get access to the pipes and wondering if the best way is to remove the plenum chamber to get a bit more space for my big hands to get in. Lets have the secret boys so I can get this job sorted without too much knuckle scraping. Many thanks in advance Baden

Hi Guys, can you help me with this one. After only 2 weeks of ownership the disco has spilt it's ATF on the floor via a failed pipe on the RH Side at the oil cooler connection. I'm searching for the easiest and quickest way to remove this pipe and fit my new shiny one. Looks like I need to remove the rad but that does not look obvious how to remove. Help chaps, need to get rolling by Saturday Cheers in advance Baden