blz6662

Hi Guys, not posted for a bit due to work on disco. Anyway to the point. I have done a serious amount of rebuild on my 87 (EA chassis) 3.5i manual rangie and ready to decide what to do about the engine upgrade. I have a complete 4.2 engine, hot wire etc still in donor car at the moment BUT slipped liner and needs top-hatting and maybe push to 4.6 litre. Thoughts please chaps on easiest/best way forward if I get the 4.2 sorted by someone like Turner Engineering. Whats best with the efi? keep/adapt the original flapper system (sort ecu map) or fit complete hotwire from donor. If so what's needed please. cheers in advance

From my previous post you will know I'm underway with some sill repairs therefore battery disconnected - anyway needed to move the truck into another position in the workshop for better access so reconnected pos lead then neg lead and the horns blasted continuously (not beep beep as an alarm). It has a sigma alarm fitted which worked perfect along with the central locking and has a separate siren. Used the blip and locked then unlocked the truck, horn still going! - Disconnected neg lead off battery pulled the fuse and reconnected neg lead then blipped the alarm locked then again unlocked key in ignition starts perfect. Have not tried to put the fuse back in 'live' yet. So guys, any ideas. tips, clues etc. Dare I use these letters on this forum - eek here goes - on my BMW535i I use a CTEK Battery saver / Power source to keep the ecu live when I disconnect the battery, so should I do the same on the disco - 1992 3.5 efi - ecu 14cux. Help I've got enough jobs to do without this. Cheers

Try websites 'Boltmeup' or 'Namrick' - you can choose sizes, strength, length etc. at your leisure. Neither are the cheapest but if you need small quantities this should not be too bad. Also agree grade 10.9 min.

Hi guys, not posted for a while so greetings to all. - Vehicle Disco 1 3.5 V8 - 1992 dual fuel single point lpg - Leonardo system Anyway here goes - mot time again and need to do a few repairs/welding on the outer rear sills, but the thing is I don't like the thought of even plugging the mig in while the 2 lpg torpedo tanks are looking at me so are coming out. ( the lpg also has not worked for a year and the tanks are FULL! - went wonky just after filling - grrr!). Looking at this problem, I think if I want to live a while longer I best remove the tanks and get on with the repairs. I don't know what to do for the future though, due to not really doing more that 2000 miles a year shall I just dump the lpg tanks and isolate the rest of the system and just run on petrol (with less weight of the tanks) or get it fixed. The problem with the lpg is that on changeover it blows the 7amp fuse on the main circuit. If I went down the removal route how far would I have to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers Baden

Hi guys This just happened twice on a 5 mile round trip. First of all vehicle details 93 (K) plate V8 3.5efi (hotwire)/LPG - Automatic 110,000 miles serviced every 5000m honest(have history). OK onto the problem - running on petrol - on deceleration up to a junction (gearbox in D) the bottom right orange check light flashed, engine revs dropped to almost nothing ready to stall so gave it light throttle and back to life and running as smooth as again! (yeh that's the symbol - er sorry). Continued on until journey no problem until slowing up ready for a nasty snow covered country lane and it did it again. Anyway got back OK and when coming to a stop revs dropped but not low enough to stall so put gearbox in P and smooth idle at 800rpm. Any ideas of what's about to die or where to check. The car has been faultless since I've had it over the last couple of years and is maintained by myself on regular basis. Engine bits status - currently running and fitted at last service: Bosch Iridium Plugs New Lucas Dizzy cap New Lucas rotor arm Magnacore 8.5mm Red Plug & Coil leads Bosch coil (original I think) Checked all wiring connections, vac hoses and all in as new condition (this car has had an easy life and not offroaded, abused or messed about with) At the last MOT the guy said it was running a bit rich on petrol but still passed. I bought a new temp sensor (not sender) not long ago and was going to fit it in the near future just in case it's on its way out. Anyway, over to you guru's to give me any leaders cheers in advance Baden

Hi guys, Some time since I've posted but here goes - a mate wants to buy my 2a v6 and toy it up BUT wants to put a defender front end on! Constructive comments please so whats the easy way to do this (ok start swearing at the monitor!) over to you chaps - aarhhhhh Baden

Front mounted due to the fact you will bump into the radius arms and on lock the tyres - therefore ar!e springs to mind! cheers bade if you want pics of an rrc fitted with twin shocks let me know

Hi guys just a bit of help on this. My 1988 3.5 efi flapper rangie is undergoing a total rebuild at the mo and although the current engine isn't bad I just thought - whilst I'm in there - shall I fit the 4.2 Hotwire complete from my donor LSE. The 4.2 will be stripped and reconned before going to the trouble of this. Dont want to go Cats though so how do I go about this on the ECU - or do I let Mr Mark Adams tickle it. cheers in advance Baden

Hi guys I bought this Rangie as spares/donor for my main project rangie. Got it for £650 and here's the bad bits so is it worth saving? To save time assume anything mentioned is either sha**ed, rusty, leaking not working or porous. Brakes EAS Front/Rear wing damage Tailgates Engine 90,000m (taken apart changed head gaskets reported porous block) Swivels/bearings/seals Shocks Roof leak Various electronic gadgets Spoke to the guy I bought it off recently and he states there was only 250 (MA Chassis 1994) built to this spec. so before I start stripping it can anyone give me an honest answer on this as it will take a shed load of beer tokens to put it right although it good bit is it's not rusty. Strip or Repair? Cheers Chaps Baden

Hi guys - Mr dizzy pannicky man here with dull question! Just replaced the points dizzy in the hybrid (3.9 hc ex-morgan +8 engine) for a nice new shiny 35DLM8 with module on the side. Just 1 dull question but first my observations, on the original dizzy the cap fits in a different place to the new dizzy (I know that's not a problem) so on static timing the rotor points at 6 o'clock. This therefore means on the original dizzy the lead no. 1 is on the second RH socket from the securing clip and just to note the dizzy was positioned/rotated originally in a setting that was difficult to get the rear clip off as it was so close to the inlet manifold. Next bit of the saga, on checking the position of No. 1 lead/cap on my 89 rangie & 93 disco it is attached to the first RH socket from the front clip . As both vehicles are running I am adopting the same lead position for the hybrids new dizzy, as the cap as it is identical to the other vehicles. On doing this, rotating the dizzy to line up on No. 1 it is getting close to the original position of the old unit and the problem I have is the module is fouling the alternator bracket . This I can get around BUT (this is the blonde moment) if I rotate the unit anti-clockwise until the vac is pointing just before the 9 o'clock position I can line up No 1 on the cap socket on the LH side of the clip therefore making cap removal easier and solving the clash problem. Therefore shifting all the leads around by one position. Is there anything clever in the module that would recognise this shift of position or should I just get out more and stop bothering you guys. cheers Baden

Hi Guys Not done this task before. Its scheduled time to change the filter/o-rings in the ZF 4 speed auto box and I just want to know is it possible to remove the sump pan without removing the curved tubular type crossmember? It's a straight box section one on my rangie and deffo not do-able. Also is there any other pitfalls awaiting me that I should know about - refilling etc. Many thanks in advance Baden

Hi Guys Your thoughts please, I'm rebuilding a 1988 v8 classic with all the toys and I have a donor 4.2 lse with 24 spline diffs/abs and so on. I've just rebuilt the 10 spline front axle with new everythings and now I have this donor is it worth back-tracking and changing to 24 spline diffs/bits (dont want the abs). Also (awaiting mr ashcrofts comments) what cv joints/part nos do I need and what would be the best choice of diff lockers front & rear for medium off-road use - this vehicle will not be used in any extreme stuff but require it to be more than capable. many thanks in advance Baden

Thanks for the info chaps - I'll try the swivel housing first as there is no play in the 'top to bottom - 'side to side' mot wheel dance routine. Bade

Hi guys Bought a 'mint' disco (1993 v8 on gas) a few weeks ago well pleased apart from the thinnest cheapest tyres I've ever seen. Anyway last night fitted a set of alloys and nearly new 235x75x16 Bf Goodridge AT's. Looking at the car in daylight today I've discovered (no pun intended) that nearside looks cool sitting just inside the wing BUT shock horror on the other side the tyre looks well in and WRONG! Out comes the tape and measured various datums and the body is square, no chassis repairs but if I measure from the outer edge of the tyre to the turret, the wheel is leaning into the spring by 25mm more that the other side. This car has belonged to a disabled driver for many years and has full service history, no mud (apart from mine) and looks like its never been offroad. Is it possible to t**t a wheel that hard you can bend the stub axle? I've measure loads of different datums and compared dimensions but this is the one that comes back at me all the time. The car drives, handles and brakes perfectly any ideas before I get in there cheers Baden

Hi no problem, bought a kit for my rangie and my mates 90 all good - teflon coating fine - go for it! cheers Baden

Try one of these chaps they are ace. Pull it out! Not Cheap but are less hit and miss than the easi-ish bleed (watch the pressure on that one). Get a good compressor hanging on it and its the best remedy. This is supposed to be our hobby not our chores!! kit up and enjoy CHT588 Pneumatic Fluid Extractor Product Code: 040210588 Enlarge Image Garage Equipment Lubrication & Fuel Transfer equipment£49.98ex. VAT £57.48inc.VAT Buy now Add to wishlist Safely and cleanly extract oils, coolants & other fluids from car, motorcycle, van, lorry or tractor engines with the CHT588. Suitable for all types of engines - diesel or petrol - it's ideal for removing transmission fluid, lubricating oils, & low viscosity liquids (water etc.); useful for clutch & brake bleeding too. Download Product Manual Includes 6.5mm and 10mm dia. extraction tubes plus 8mm dia. brake / clutch fluid extraction tube with brake adaptor. Automatic air inlet shut off 5.5Ltr fluid capacity Air consumption approx. 5cfm Operates at 70 to 170psi air pressure ¼" air inlet connector Drain fluids to a maximum of 80°C related items CHT268 Disc Brake Piston Spreader CHT229 Pipe Flaring & Cutting Kit.

I've just bought a tapered competion one off Guardian Offroad Products - check out their website. I am very pleased with it, good workmanship and nicely coated and much less than 300 quid. My bumper has a 12000lb ewi T-Max winch fitted. I'll upload the pics off the website as I don't have any taken of mine yet cheers Baden

Many thanx everyone - I've got some direction now and start playing again on the weekend - I'll let you know how I get on. cheers Bade

Cheers, I had a feeling that was the case and would explain the Megaspark 2 coil getting hot on cranking. From the wiring diagrams I can find (Haynes dare I say!!!! yuck) do I take a live feed to one side of the ballast (I've got one of those big chunky ones from V8 TUNER) along with a live spliced from the starter solenoid supply, then the other terminal on the ballast to feed the coil pos+? I'm considering buying a new coil just in case I've cooked the others - Thinking of getting an Aldon Flame Thower along with some NGK BPR6EIX Iridium plugs. Any comments on that guys. Also considering buying a new dizzy from RPI - 35DLM8 c/w 3 pin module on the side. I understand that I would not require the ballast then. Keep the thread going guys as I've got to get this beggar going to save my daily drive up my farm track. cheers Bade

Thanks for that thought but just put 30 ltrs of fresh shiney EXPENSIVE unleaded in. I thought it might be a pick-up pipe problem - but no, and I now have over half a tank full - Keep your thoughts and info coming cheers Baden

Hi all haven't posted for a while, trying to be clever and solve everthing myself. Anyway here's the problem - Vehicle is Range Rover chassied hybrid, 90 front end, 2A body fitted with 3.9 V8 Prefix 47A engine 9.35:1 comp. When I bought this animal it was a runner - just. It seamed like the previous owner had nailed it together, had fun until trouble started then got rid. After a small amount of use by myself it just gave up although when it rid run it sounded sweet - no timing issues. Now I've righted many wrongs I can't get it to start easily if at all so now I want to improve the ignition system to solve what seams to be a weak spark! - We have fuel, spark etc at the right time, it just wont catch. Can you guys recommend what is the best dizzy to use as I suspect this is part of the problem - its a points type dizzy at the mo and the small earth lead from the top plate to base is very thin. Not sure if the vac advance is any good either. Also can you recommend a good performance coil - the existing one is pretty rough looking but still sparks - I did try a Maga spark 2 coil (new) and this had no effect on starting except the coil got hot on cranking. On this point shoud a ballast resistor be used on this installation as there is not one fitted at the moment and if so how do I wire it in - could this be the answer. Nearly there sorry to go on!!!! Things replaced to date New LUCAS EVERYTHINGS Dizzy cap, rotor arm, points, condenser & NGK plugs (BPR6E) New Magnacor blue plug & king leads. New RED TOP Fuel Pump & Filter King with gauge (set at 6 psi) New fuel lines thoughout. Serviced and set-up carb - Holley 470cfm Truck Avenger - manual choke. One final thing could it be the unleaded needs a bit of octane booster? cheers in advance Baden

Just to chip in try v8tuner.co.uk I think thats Real Steel cheers Bade

Due to the diameter of the tyre it was catching the lower edges of the front wings on cornering, you could trim the arches but would'nt look that tidy. Also the tread was just visible outside the front arches - rear no probs at all. I just decided to go the whole hog and fit arches ( front ones easy rear on a 4 door err NOT!) I have fitted 30mm spacers on mine and the rubber is just nicely inside the arch. cheers Baden

Hi there - I did run 235/85x16 mud terrain Wildcats on 7"Mach 5 wheels and no problem with clearance on a 2" lift (4 door). Looks better now with Devon 4x4 arches/ Mach 5 / 265x75x16 Muddy Claws cheers Baden

Hi there Landy Loons Just aquired a new toy but have a few engine running problems! The beast is as follows: V5 states 1970 Series 11A (Truck Cab), rolling on 100" Range Rover chassis, Defender 90 front end. Engine - 3.9 9.35:1 CR Engine suffix - 47AxxxxxB (From Rimmer Bros info it'd from a Morgan +8!) LT77 5speed short stick. The engine has been fitted with a 470cfm Holley Truck Avenger Carb and sparks via the old black cap lucas points type dizzy. Here's the problems (not had a lot of time to play with it due to customers cars taking free time up) When I bought it, (it's been called BOB - Short for Beast of Bigsweir), anyway it was running very lean and popping and cracking through the minimal side exit exhaust and tickover was fast so just driving in the lanes in low gears no problem BUT get it on the road and no rev range or power so had to keep it at fast idle speeds. So the previous owner (of 3 weeks) was told it's the carb that needs setting-up which was bought new and only recently fitted. Having downloaded the manual I had a go at sorting the mixture (without a vac gauge) and got it running sweet and the altered the idle speed to a sensible setting. After driving it down my farm track for a mile it started to become erratic and cut-out then it would'nt start. Looked under the bonnet and in the inlet manifold valleys there was a pool of fuel! aagghh! - SO have I overfuelled it? / did the backfiring damage the power valve in the carb? / the fuel appears to be running down the secondaries vac unit operating rod therefor has the diaphragm gone? - I have started it since but it misses like a pig if I try to rev it. Sorry All this is a bit War and Piece but when its a new toy it could be anything. Finally there is NO Vac Pipe running from the dizzy to the carb connection - err eh! - should I fit one and see, there is no other vac advance 'trickery' fitted in place of the standard. Phew thats it- HELLLPPPP Please cheers Baden