Igol

So the rear cross member has gone and the truck lists to the left slightly, my ABS light has stuck on and needs reseating and now I have a new and interesting problem. Under acceleration at around 2K revs theres a definate judder and associated noise, mainly noticed in 3rd and on the way into work today she felt underpowered too. Its been a bit since I greased the diffs and thats now on the to do list for the morning but any suggestions would be gratefully recieved.

Cheers all I shall start trawling the suggested ones, did see an Alpha something one for £65 quid delivered but I'm still hoping that all the electric isnt going to run out of the battery when I stick it back in the bus

Yep the cold snap may have killed my battery, though I'm hoping it'll recharge, but just in case can anyone suggest anywhere to get a replacement for less than £100 with delivery? County Battery Services will do me one for £105 delivered and the local motor factors will set me back £135, is there anything cheaper out there for a 97 TDi?

Sounds like a broken spring. 3 quid roughly off fleabay

I remember when mine was acting in a similar manner, cold weather not enough juice to crank the engine but after the booster pack it'd run fine until left overnight and then back to the beginning. New glow plugs solved it.

Yep works PC causing the issue. Thanks again Now just need to buy the bits and and wait for the good weather when the demon welder step son is back on leave.

Works computer may be having one of its (many) moments

Cheers both. Pity your pics have disappeared Katluke.

This isnt me being lazy I have done lots of searches but havent turned up a purely Disco based one. Does anyone know of one of those helpful how to guides with those nice idiot proof pics on replacing a Disco 1 cross member? I did my boot floor and rear wings a year or so ago and patched the hanger while I was at it, now the rear door is trying to tuck in behind the bumper and the plastic strip is moving upwar suggesting to me that I may have a little issue with the Crossmember and with my luck theres no point in looking at the cheaper replace body mounts option and its going to have to be the full YRM kit with all the extras included. So one of Les's nice guides would be wonderful; I mean do you take the door off or not??

Obviously you only need it from about 2 mins in but the mod on the box spanner is well worth doing if you've a welder.

This is a bit of an odd one or it may be a common one on my 1997 TD5 I just didnt find it during my searches. The old bus just passed its MOT with a few advisories such as play in N/S wheel bearing and corrosion on a brake disc. The bearings been tightened and I suspect that I'm going to have to strip a caliper and free up the pots to cure the disc issue. I only mention this in case it has a bearing on the latest little quirk. If I'm turning and braking, to park for example, I've had what feels like the ABS kicking in a few times, new shocks and springs went in this year so I'm discounting the suspension and the ARB links look ok and I expect if they were at fault the MOT would of highlighted it. I do also get an intermittant ABS light but in the past cleaning the sensor head and new bearings has made that go away. The bushes on the radius arms do look knackered where they connect to the chassis and frankly I'm suprised that they've never picked up on the MOT. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for that, my world is a little clearer now.

Apologies if this has been done and I'd be happy to be directed to a thread (I have looked and didnt find one.) I'm looking to replace my standard road tyres to an all terrain version on my 97 Disco. I currently have one Goodrich T/A 225/75 R16 on a Range Rover wheel but my standard Disco wheels are 235/70 R16. I'm happy to admit that my knowledge of tyre sizes & wheels is pretty basic so would my normal alloys fit the same size Goodrich tyre as on the Rangey wheel and indeed should I go for another Goodrich?

I've not long swapped my full suspension for standard shocks with HD springs. The wollow has gone and she handles a damn sight better than she did though it was riding fully on the springs, shocks were just for decoration by then. Given the expense you've already gone to is it going to be worth it to get fancy bushes? I think poly came as standard with mine too.

YRM certainly look the business and thats why I initially mentioned them but at a ton a throw with the vat & shipping is there a mid range option? The sheet steel patching was my first pln but I figure I'd be spending more in wire and electricity than if I just get a complete unit. Got a link for the RRC ones Mudslinger?

I've recently noticed that my front wing is mainly held on by rust, now while I know that rust has the best holding capabilities of any material (look how hard it is to get a rusty nut off without the grinder), I expect that the naive fool at the MOT station will disagree. So in anticipation of this I'm looking at getting a repair panel, but dear forum member, which one? I can pick a simple bit of bent tin up of fleabay for about 30 quid or could spend 70 on a fancy YRM one that looks to be a copy of the original. So what is the general opinion of this wise group of Fettlers?

Sounds like the springs snapped. You can pick them up on ebay for a few quid with a fitting guide usually.

Mine was making an awful squeaking noise last year when driving but nothing when stationary. Wheel bearings checked and replaced but it was still there, I ended up underneath rotating the prop by hand and the donut that looked fine otherwise started showing me some lovely big cracks in the rubber.

Just a thought but whats the donut look like?

Do you have welder? I've tried this route in the past albeit with mixed results. The other option that doesnt risk the snapped off easyout when it fails, as they generally do, is drilling the stud out with increasing 0.5 mil increments til it collapses. Well thats the theory. I've either had the stud unscrew itself as the tension/heat/rotation work together. The little sod wont shift and end up drilling it all out and retapping. The drill bit snaps off and you have to start over with a snapped drill bit thats perfect for snapping more bits (until I started using cobalt drills). And finally the theory actually works. Good luck

Sounds just like the noise I had from the back a few weeks back. But then there was all the britpart bearings that'd turned to shrapnel that came out in sympathy with it too. As an additional note apart from the noise there was no wobble in the rear at all so may be worth having a look and seeing if you've a load of assorted bits of metal in the hub. I just need to convince the remaining bearing race that I am serious and would like it to get off the half shaft. Even Landrover tool no2 (angle grinder) hasnt convinced it to let go

Hammer and chisel job it was and then it came off easily. I saved the grinder for the bolts on the propshaft

Now what? I’ve just gone out on a test drive after replacing my front wheel bearing on my 97 Disco. Front end seems fine but as I set off there was a horrible noise a selection of grinding and squeaking from the back end of the car. ABS light is also stuck on, I had assumed that this was to do with the front bearing as it came on when that went. Jacked her up and rear bearings are both fine no play at all. I’ve jumped up and down on the tow hook and suspension seems fine and the noise doesn’t get any worse when you go over pot holes/speed bumps. I’m now thinking something to do with the brake callipers and checked to see if the pads have dropped through the calliper but there’s no scoring on the hub any other suggestions more than welcome.

Thanks and yep, I know things should be a lot slacker than that Threads should be ok as I stuck this one on in the summer and it wasnt a difficult fit then. I was thinking along the same lines though I my get a 52mm socket to replace the box spanner which isnt too good a fit along with the new nut. So much for a one hour job

I'm currently replacing the wheel bearings on my Disco. The outer hub nut came off fine bringing with it the assorted shrapnel that was the outer bearing race but I cannot get the inner hub nut to shift. Its not so much that I dont have a long enough pole but when I put pressure on the box spanner it slides off, tried a jack under it to support the rachet end but thats been no use so anyone any handy tips to get the swine shifted?