Igol

Rear stop lights are all working fine and I did change one a while ago but I've stopped behind other bars since then so pretty sure I'd have noticed the headlights flashing. I'll have a poke round the earths and see what that turns up ta

A new one on me and an interesting safety feature that my 97 ES is trying out. However being a traditionalist I don't feel the need to let the car in front know that I'm braking so can anyone suggest where I should start looking for the short? Obviously it'll be totally inaccessible behind the console somewhere so suggestions where to start my quest would be handy.

Or the size of pins you need? I got the top one off the scrapper to experiment with that idea but it ended up in my todo bin.

As stated ABS should go out check and clean the sensors on the brakes and check the bearings while your at it. My ABS always comes on when they're on the way out (guess who had all Britpart to save money.....for at least 6 months) but then it also comes on whenever other totally unrelated things are about to break, no idea why this is other than some weird psychic link it has to the other bits of the car

Isnt the grinder always the better option? More than happy to give it a go but then I'll be left without a door if it doesn't work so I think I'll head back to the scrappy and grab the lower one. Had the door off when I did the cross member work bench and a jack worked that time with a couple of bits of timber to bulk things up.

Simple question, are they swappable? My bottom tailgate hinge looks out of kilter so I think its had it and I've got a spare top hinge off a scrapper so will that replace it? The lower hinge has those 'rivets' on it which seem to be missing on the replacement ones I've googled

Turns out that I'm not as thick as I thought. Took it round to a mate whos a spark who ran through some tests and nowt wrong with my wiring at all power is getting to the unit and the obvious fuse on it was ok too, so he came to the conclusion that the new unit was faulty. Discovered a tell tale led on the main unit this morning which also works when its connected so narrowed it down to the removable front cover but naturally they want the full thing back to replace it. Sent it back so we'll see what the replacement one is like.

So why doesnt it work? Obviously my fittings are different and the rear subwoofer is long gone in my truck but I'm (I would be) happy enough with the 4 speakers, mapped them all this morning and then bullet connectors on all the speaker wires and attached them to the new connector block. Subwoofer had nothing to attach it to. Moved on to the second block and found 2 thick likely looking wires one green and one black which to my simple mind would suggest 12v power and earth connected them up and......nowt. Now I know its going to be something simple and my fall back plan is to get a mate whos a spark to have a look later in the week, but if anyone of the learned folk on here would like to point out why I'm stupid I'm happy to hear, and yes i did put the ignition on.

I've had a proper look and my hangover has eased a bit and think I've figured things out, everything I need is on the left and the other bit bar the antenna is for the cd changer

Ok so I've pulled out the knackered radio and have the lovely bundles of wires attached with no real indication of what does what does what. So am I reading things right, before I start cutting? Next to the antenna the black block will have the power? Grey and tan blocks are assorted speaker wires? The remaining black block with the red and black wires is the cd changer?

As FF says get the RAVE manual (CD) it along with the excellent tech/how to guides on here should see you through and obviously the forums are great for those odd little faults that dispite your best efforts you cant find - someone will have had it and fixed it. And make sure you've got decent recovery insurance

And get a load of kitty litter for when you do the oil change and the handy chassis strut turns the sump drain into a sprinkler system when the pressure drops off.

Thanks for that, I'll start looking for a new one....and some speakers

Tbh never even tried it, looked at it and decided that its such a dinky little thing that I'd be far better off with something I know I can just stick under the raise the bus in a few pumps.

My radio has died on my 1997 ES, well the 'D' bit of the the LCD doesnt (and its hard to put in a code after I charged the battery) and the CD changer under my seat gave up working ages ago. So my plan is now to upgrade the Landy one to a DAB one with a hook up for my iphone/mp3 ect. So, given its a Disco with lots of remote buttons on the dash that work when they feel like it and my 240 mil grinder is unwell, how much of pain will it be? Obviously I'm not bothered about being able to swap stations/turn it up/down/swap cds from the buttons hidden by the steering wheel and tbh mainly want the wireless. Should I bin my fanciful ideas of putting modern tech into a cumudgeonly old disco and see what my mate down the scrap yard has to offer instead?

Under the bonnet, passenger side front and, if they're present, the interesting set of rods to make it work are under the rear seats. Locking nut key could be anywhere, glove box - center console - door pockets. But get a decent trolley jack and chuck the bottle jack.

Had a decatted defender front pipe on mine for the past 4 years and only failed on emissions the last time. This was mainly due to the veg oil I was running it on, acknowledged by the tester, once I was back on full fat diesel she sailed through the test.

Had Grabbers on mine for the past year and no issues at all in the variety of weather we've had chucked at us. Had loads of confidence in them in the snow and ice and being a biker for most the year means I pay attention to how the rubber sticks to the road.

Alldrive sockets are what your after and they arent too bad to remove with the right one and when it fails the good old Irwin bolt extractor kit is worth more than its weight in gold.

Main thing to look for is a bloody good grinder and a stack of cutting discs

Thanks. Rear X member was swapped last year so that should reduce my order with YRM

Ok I'm being lazy as its cold and I dont want to lay under it right now. Is there a diagram somewhere of where each mount is? I've had it twice now on the MOT so I'm thinking its going to be a job for Landy tool No1 (grinder) come the spring and replace the mounts and bushes together.

I drilled out my last one and welded through it then as a belt and braces thing stuck a bead on the inside of the cog. Worked a treat up until the nylon wheels disintigrated. And the 10p fix for them does work for them, a few months at any rate....tbh its easier to buy a new one off fleabay and do a bit of pre-emptive welding before fitting.

Oddly enough the sunroofs are about the only thing on mine not to go wrong...... Now why did I say that???

Stick the new glow plugs in as well. I've read the 'you dont need glow plugs' stuff in the past but mine bloody well does, slightest hint of cold weather and it sulks - must have been on the for export line to Saudi and then had UK plates stuck on it