Ian Barrett

I just had a read of this and now I'm confused as to whether I'm going to have a problem when I present my 90 for an MOT when I finally get it back on the road. Here are its details, can someone tell me if I need to get anything on the V5 changed or if its all OK Date of first Reg: 1987 (came as a surprise to me, I've always thought it was '86 !) Make: Land Rover Model/Type: 90 4C Reg DT Diesel Variant: (this is blank) Version: (this is also blank) Body Type: Light 4x4 Utility Taxation Class: PLG Revenue Weight: 3499KG Cylinder Capacity: 2494CC Fuel: Heavy Oil WheelPlan: 2-Axle-Rigid Body Thats all the stuff from the V5 I haven't change the colour so thats OK What does the '4C' bit of the Model/Type mean? BUT I have removed the roof and rear panels and installed a Trakkers Truck Cab Mohair roof. So its now a soft top. There isn't a hope I'll ever drive it into London so I'm not bothered about the LEZ stuff, just the changes to the MOT Thanks for your help guys. IanB

Check the earths inside the unit. They are notorious for corroding and causing odd issues.

Blimey, there were wierder things in the car park at Billing !

Having just picked up the love for my Landy again I went down to Billing at the weekend. I spotted the LR Gear "Family Tree" shirt and really liked it until I spotted there is no place in the LR tree for the Ninety or One Ten We always get lumped in with the Defenders and I've kind of got used to that, but this really narked me for some reason.

My first Billing for about 5 years yesterday and I'm glad to say it was pretty much back to the Billing I remember - sort of. It was evil weather, at one point I thought "this stinking weather couldn't get any worse" but I was wrong and it did. Glad to say the ground held up though, apart from a couple of good mud patches. I even heard one of the stall holders saying at any other event it would have been a washout - but us LandRover boys are a hardy bunch and a bit of rain wasn't putting us off at all I enjoyed it.

OK, glad I checked The shaft where the seal sits I got correct at 60mm Where the bearing sits is actually 45.3 NOT 45.4 as I quoted earlier The swivel has loads of dimensions. Here are 2 and let me know if you need any others its an odd shape to measure so imagine its a football with 1/3 of it cut off. You can see it will be fatter in the middle than at the edge where it was cut. I have both those sizes Fattest - 133.3 across the cut - 127.8

The diameter of the shaft (stub axle?) is 60mm where the seal fits and 45.4mm where the bearing sits. I'll double check them for you though because I took the easy way out and photographed the calipers sitting on the shaft - but the focus is of the rotor so its a bit blurry. I'll get you the diameter of new and old swivel too - to be sure to be sure - as I have the near side one on the floor. I didn't replace the bearing on the near side, so I don't have one to hand yet. Might have it from the offside by the end of the day though.

I'll have the front hub of my 1986 Ninety apart today to fit a new swivel. If you want me to measure anything post up details of what you need.

My truck cab top is from Trakkers and its great quality. http://www.trakkers.co.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=45&Itemid=3 Ah, just read the gumph on their website which says "Trakkers are a distributor of Exmoor Trim products" Having had a bikini roof from another supplier I can tell you there is a significant difference in 'canvas' though and the difference between the the two (apart from the aesthetics obviously !) is like night and day.

Thanks GBMUD Your method is pretty much what we adopted in the end. I use the term WE as I had two mates scratching their heads with this too. The only difference we had was we put the caliper in the vice with the pistons oriented up / down with the ones you are working on at the bottom - so you can see the seals. Chamfer the outside/bottom edge of the retaining ring. We pushed the pistons in level to the piston casing, fitted the seal to the retaining ring and aligned it carefully on the recess **** With a piece of flat 5mm steel plate we 'leaned' on the plate to press the seal in. Any high spots were gently tapped with a socket set extension bar which has enough weight to act as a small hammer. The problem we had with your G-Clamp method was that if the steel retainer wasn't going in it would just flatten and destroy it. We also couldn't get the clamp on the piston where the brake pipe fits due to the large knuckles in the casting there. **** This may have been a mistake and I'll give your method a go when I do the other side. (just the small matter of rebuilding the NSR brakes before turning the car around and I'm awaiting parts from Paddock)

I got Lockheed seals rather than 'after-market' from Paddock after reading the discussions on the relative merits of the seal sets. I've fitted the seals on the caliper I had off earlier - I chamfered an edge on the seal retainer which made it a bit easier but it was still a very clumsy and time consuming job to do. I'll certainly split the other caliper. That'll be next week as this side swivel and caliper refurb is now finished. Thanks for your help guys, it won't be long before the old girl can go for her MOT.

Guys (probably Les if we're honest ) Rebuilding my front caliper but I chose not to split the caliper. No real reason why but as its all painted and dry its too late to split it now. I've got to the stage where I'm putting in the new pistons and seals. The piston seal is in The piston is in Is there a knack to getting the top dust? seal in because I've already bent one metal retainer. I bought a spare set so I've replaced the bent one but I'm struggling to get the little beggars in! Oh, I've lubed the seals with brake grease as I had some after doing the master cylinder on the TVR. I trust this is OK as rereading the Tech Doc by Les he states to lube them with brake fluid. Thanks for your help IanB

If both pipes are getting hot, and the flaps inside are working OK then surely either the matrix is full of kak and water is only trickling through or there is an air lock in it. Isn't there a trick to getting the air out by jacking up the front end or something?

I have a handbrake lock which locks around the handbrake when its in the upright (on) position. Its called a JetLock and I bought it from Simmonites - though I can't find it on their website now so it might be worth a call to them. It wasn't cheap at about £120 getting on for 10 years ago.

This has made interesting reading. The rear brakes on my '86 90TD have been locking up for some time. I thought it was because I'd removed the hard top, sides and rear door so the back end was much lighter. But yesterday after finishing rebuilding the Near Side swivel I decided to check the brakes before putting the caliper back on. There was only 1 piston doing anything and the other 3 were stuck solid. With the aid of some clamps and a mate we've freed the other pistons a bit and I've cleaned them with paraffin and a toothbrush, enough to get the dust seals off the pistons as they'd popped out with the pistons. I left them liberally coated in paraffin overnight so I'm hoping to get them moving better today. Looks like I'll need a new seal kit as a minimum so its useful to know I should be buying OE rather than pattern.

I've been and bought a socket - from Kens Autos in Bulwell - so stand down gentlemen. Oh, and it goes without saying its available for anyone local to loan if they need one urgently.

No problem danebrewer I also took off 2 retaining plates. I couldn't understand why and it seems other people have had 1 or 2 (see my thread on pitted swivel replacement). You are correct, they are both flat, no steps, and both the same size. If you have taken off 2 plates, I'd put 2 back on.

I've got a Britpart kit and a seal I bought before getting the kit. Want me to get any details / measurements? They are for my '86 Ninety so they'll be the bits you get.

Is there anyone near East Midlands Airport with a hub nut socket/box spanner - its 52mm (2.1/16" in old money) who wouldn't mind lending it to me for a couple of days next week? I can give you references confirming I'm a good guy - look me up on Pistonheads as Barreti, or leave you a deposit on it if you'd prefer. I've been up to Notts Army Surplus, Machine Mart, Jeyes in Netherfield but nobody has one. I know I can get one off fleabay or from Paddock but having replaced the swivel now I just want to get on with the job on Monday. I'll buy a box spanner for when I do the other swivel but I don't want the job to wait half of next week just for want of a £5 box spanner. I got the nuts off with a pair of grips, but I'm not sure they're good enough for the fine tuning I'll want to do when putting it back together. Thanks in hope. IanB

I tell a lie guys, I've found this comment in the Rebuilding a 110 front hub tech archive "Whatever method you use - make sure the seal is the right way round - and in the correct order - that is, seal first, then gasket, and finally the two retaining plates" OK, so a stupid question, why are there 2 retaining plates sitting back-to-back?

I've started cleaning up the bit which are going back on, and getting ready for putting it together. I have 2 of the metal plates which go behind the swivel with the seal, and a paper gasket of the same shape as the metal plates. Its not obvious how these and the seal fit in either of the tech archives I'm following so can someone tell me the sequence they follow to go back together. I think its swivel / rubber seal / metal plate / gasket / metal plate but thats an educated guess more than anything. Sorry to have to ask this, but I had help pulling it apart and he was a bit gung ho and didn't note how they came off.

Does this apply to the grainy matt black/glittery type ? I've just put rock sliders on mine, which were galv when I bought them and I've painted with POR15 so getting the wheel arches back to black would smarten up the sides a lot.

Holy Thread Resurection !! Mind you, it was 6 years since the thread was started so you must be ready to do the job again

Well top marks to Paddock for their service. I ordered the kits yesterday at 9:00 and paid £5 for the Special Delivery rather than the free 3-4 days normal delivery. They arrived by Fedex at 08:00 this morning - less than 23hrs later. I had considered having a run up in the TVR to collect them but £5 wouldn't have even covered the fuel. Oh, I bit the bullet and got 2 kits, so I'm not buggering about when I get around the other side.

You are quite right Tanuki. Guys please forget all the daft questions above because after finding this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52920 I've decided I'll be phoning Paddock tomorrow and ordering a swivel kit. Fingers crossed for the other side or this is going to get a tad more expensive than I thought. thanks everyone for your help (as usual) IanB