Fanakapan

Rave has a decent and simple test routine for EFI ignition, basic stuff with a voltmeter, but it works well.

Checking on Rave, I see they want you to pressurize the Booster unit first, then start with the front Hydrostatic nipples, then moving on to the Pump, Accumulator, Booster, and so on. Complicated procedure, that probably deserves following the factory instructions ?

Weren't replacement Booster/Master Cylinder units for RR ABS supplied pre charged ?? Might have some bearing on things, and be yet another WABCO stumbling block to keeping the beasties roadworthy after 20 odd years

Watch out for the splines on the shaft that goes through the TB connecting the Viscous and Diff, once they give up its a show stopper If you do have to re build the TB, then dont be tempted by the Chains on Ebay, the £100 you save wont be worth the exasperation you'll feel when dropping the box again 6 months later

If the motor car is in as good condition as you say, its fixable. Maybe some specifics on the emissions would indicate whats malfunctioning, could be something as simple as a worn out MAF As for the EU, it would be in order for the money you have spent, to have at your grasp some specifics ? A good analysis of what comes out of the back end should give a very good indication of what parts are at fault. Hardly the fault of the EU if the technicians you employed have palmed you off ??

Flood the inside of the pillar with Waxoyl from the top, and remove the crusty bits under the seal and massage in either Waxoyl or grease. The seal should sit back against the pillar once you've got rid of the raised crusts, thus helping to hold in your preventative. In my experience, any form of painting over already corroded material will only lead to the remaining corrosion being able to recommence out of sight

The panel underneath the Decker Panel, and part of the shell, usually gets some pretty big holes in it from the dreaded Metal Moth, which besides leading to rotted footwells, may conceivably also result in draughts ??

Aperture Seal pt No MTC2398 Should run about £24 for a non OEM part The seal itself just pushes into a pressed channel thats spot welded to the body, you put one leg of the rubber seal in and carefully press the other in with a screwdriver or maybe a little wheel. The fit up on the top edge was I think poor from new ? The seal before squashing by the frame can show a tendency to want to pull out with age. I've noticed the Aluminium top frames seem to be a little tighter on the seal than the OEM parts, and can want to tear the seal in the corners. So its probably an idea to maybe lubricate the top edge of the frame with a LITTLE silicone grease.

Sounds like the Transmission would have been the first point of investigation.

Thats good As far as ignition amplifiers go, I'd advise everybody to do the remote mounting mod, but make your own bracket so the amp can be swapped out in minutes, it saves hours of checking other stuff

New chain from Ashcroft's has worked wonders Looking at the old and badly stretched one, it does not appear to be of poor quality, but the link pins differ from the new one made by Ramsey Chain in the USA. It was also apparent that the new part was considerably tighter on the sprockets from the get go, I recall the failed item practically fell together, whereas the 'Puka' chain did want everything in good alignment to get it all together. When I get time I'll put the bite on the supplier of the dud part in an effort to find out the importer of the bad chains. It'd be some useful dope to get on to the interweb, as it'll hopefully save others from having to do a largish job twice

Hope you put out the extra for one of the 'Proper' chains

You probably need to let the engine and transmission tilt down more to get it to clear. But do make sure you have removed the radiator fan

The answer seems to be in this link to Ashcrofts page on Borg Warner chains, and failures between 1000 and 5000miles http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=184 So thanks to the insane efforts of (probably) some entrepreneur in the Far East, who sought to save 20p, I can now drop the transfer case again to replace something that was not even as good as the old part with 104k on it. Still, looking on the bright side, it'll also give me a chance to see if the output shaft I bought new is made of butter also It may be as well to point out that these chains are still being sold on a well known auction site for a touch over £100. So beware ! Adding this to Ignition Amplifiers that cant stand any heat at all, and fail after 3 months of light use, its plain that the opportunity exists for suppliers today, to get hold of stuff that in every way looks like it'll do the job, but in fact has been produced from sub standard materials. Obviously we all have to be judicious in choosing between Main Stealer parts and Aftermarket goods

About a 1000 miles back, I rebuilt the BW transfer case on my 91 Range Rover, everything new except the Viscous Coupling, as the existing one with a 100k on it checked out ok on the bench. Now If I apply hardish throttle from a standing start, or going up an incline, I'm getting slipping accompanied by clicking or clunking noises. Its a similar sensation to that experienced in the old days when on motorcycles with worn sprockets The noise I would say is coming from the transmission/transfer box area. The coupling passes the jack up a wheel and turn test, so is not solid. Can these couplings fail by losing the ability to transmit torque ? All I can seem to find in the way of examples on the interweb seem to be solid failures Thanks in advance.