Big_Jon

Hi, I am returning to the LR fold after a 5 year break (previously a ,V8 90 CSW). I am looking for a 2002 onward 90 in any form in the £10-11K range (under 100k miles) and have taken a look at about 10 landies. All have been quite disappointing and have either had very tatty bodywork or rusty cross members / bulkheads and no service history. Am I being realistic??? Or just looking in the wrong places e.g. Autotrader and ebay. Anyone know of a nice example in this range. Cheers Jon

Dear All, Unfortunately I have to sell my factory original v890CSW, 1988 vintage. This really is a very nice example and took me six months to find some three years ago. In summary: 63K genuine miles (documentation available) Starts and runs beautifully (lots of documented oil changes) Quiet lt85! Sound chassis with new outriggers and rear cross member No rot in bulkhead Very tidy original interior Very good bodywork with no dents to speak of Sound doors with just a few bubbles on the rear door Red Polybushes New spings and decarbon shocks Brand new rostyle wheels Everything works properly! It really is one of the best original examples out there and would love to sell to a good home But what can I realistically expect for it? Cheers Jon

I have always found that biological washing powder/liquid is good - the liquid is better as it dissolves easily. Go for the non-colour versions as they contain bleaching agents also. You can leave it to soak for an hour or so (to let the enzymes do their stuff) and scrub from time to time with a stiff brush. It may take a few applications, but my seats came up a treat after this treatment. Jon

Thanks, Should have mentioned that drums were also replaced at the same time. So it looks as if some of the parts may not be up to spec. The drums were Bearmach the shoes were Paddocks specials........... Are mintex shoes worth a go? Jon

Dear All, I recently overhauled my rear hub brakes. Replaced cylinders, hubs, shoes and springs. Ever since I have been aware of a slight “unevenness” when braking at very low speed i.e. brakes feel on then off. Took things apart to check this out and the shoes are wearing unevenly Any idea what the problem is. I thought that it may be U/S shoes? Wheel bearings show no movement so think that they are OK. Thanks Jon

Thanks, I understand how these items work...... I just wanted some simple guidance on the engine temperature at which full drive should be transferred to the fan. Judging by electric thermostats this should probably be about 88 deg? Cheers Jon

Hi, I was wondering at what temperature my viscous fan should lock-in at. I have a VDO gauge and sender that appears very accurate and you can see that the thermostat open spot on 82deg. The gauge reading has reached about 90 deg but the fan is still slack. Is it time for a new viscous unit or do I let the temp climb higher?? BTW it’s a v8 90 on carbs. Cheers Jon

Hi, I have powerpoint file of the fuse designations, PM your email address and I will be happy to sent it. Jon

Hi, I was wondering where I could get a mid box replacement pipe for a V8 90 . Anyone tried this? I Was wondering about the overall effect? Cheers Jon

Try these guys in Bury http://www.a1landroverbreakers.co.uk/ I have visited but not bought anything... Jon

I had a look at a V8 90 there a couple of years ago. Price was about £5500 so I was expecting something nice…………. and I was promised it was. Big mistake! It was in a right state with holes bulkhead and chassis. The guy even refused to let me tap the chassis with my hammer……….It was OK though because I managed put my finger through the front outriggers without much effort. Needless to say I left that one alone and went and found something nice. Be very careful of the descriptions made and think twice about a long journey. Jon

Looks like its 5/8 UNF and Merlin motorsport do the correct sender. http://merlinmotorsport.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=6151 Jon

Hi, I was wondering if anyone knew the thread of the temperature sender for a v8 on SU carbs 1988 (from a 90). I plan to replace mine with a VDO gauge and sender. The original part number is PRC2506. Anyone recommend a supplier in UK? Cheers Jon

Fantastic! Thanks. Jon

Hi All, Just wondering if anybody had the fuse designations for a 1988 V8 90 CSW – just to stop me having to unplug them all and work it all out……… Cheers Jon

Hi poohbear, You could always pump them out with the brake pedal. Try to use a spacer between (or clamp on) the pistons so that they all come out an equal amount. Be ready fo fluid loss when they finally pop. I had a clamp on the flexi pipe while I pumped and just nipped it up when the poped out. Jon

Hi, Was just wondering what the consensus was about treating the old white powder problem (without replacing the panel). I was just going to grind it clean and etch prime - is it worth priming before filling? (I seem to read all sorts of approaches). Any good cleaners out there for removing the corrosion? Also, has anybody tried the por-15 approach of cleaning, etching and painting (you can then use special filler on top of tacky por15). I have taken this approach on rusty bulkhead and its lasted well. Any wisdom out there greatly appreciated. Jon

Take a look at Red Line oils. http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/6.pdf I put some MT90 in my LT-85 - totally transformed the shift esp 1st-2nd. Jon

Hi, Anyone know where you can get the shoulder bolts commonly found on side steps (MTC7464). LR price is about £8.00 each and I need four of them! Cheers Jon

Has anyone tried epoxy mastic? http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm A couple of years ago I treated some rust in my 90 foot wells with marine clean metal ready and POR-15. It has started to bubble-up already - not impressed. Epoxy mastic may be the cure - I am sure someone must have given it a spin. Cheers Jon

Another vote for plant sprayer....buy a cheap one from Wilco etc. This is a "must have". Jon

I visited these guys about a year ago as they were breaking an old 90 and I was interested in some bits and pieces. I found them to be quite unfriendly/unhelpful and looking at the state of the workshop I recall thinking that I would never take an engine of mine there for a recon. Jon

Les, Don't think so............ Looks just like this one you replaced! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4954 Do you think they could be similar when stripped? Cheers Jon

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone had tried to change the power steering pump bearings. The pump on my 1988 V8 90 (200 type) is rumbling quite badly and I would quite like to avoid the cost of a new unit! Any comments, hints, tips etc? Cheers Jon

Straight from my LR manual: "The resistance, once the initial inertia has been overcome, should be 3.60 to 4.30 Kg (8 to 10 Ibs). If necessary, adjust by removing or adding shims to the top swivel pin as required." Jon