Ben Jordan

After lifting the Rangie 2" and fitting the front caster correction arms, I have taken the Rangie on it's first long run today and it has developed the dreaded over run vibration. Between 40-60 and lifting off the accelerator a nasty vibration is coming from in front of the driver seat like a bearing has gone. I have put this down to the lift and caster correction arms. I have visited my local prop shaft specialist and they confirmed the UJ by the transfer box is running on its limit. Do i? Have them fit a (Disco 2) double cardon joint into my prop shaft for £142 + £39 for the T/box output flange? Have them make a custom double cardon prop shaft for £222 + £39 for the T/box output flange? Buy a Disco 2 prop shaft from Devon 4x4 for £169+vat + £39+vat for the T/box output flange? Will it fit a Borg-Warner transfer box, as I know the front prop length is different to a LT230 front prop? Or live with it (but i probably wont because it is bad)

I like "Your skid stops here" or "Smile as you go under"

Here is a pic to show you the fruits of yours and my labour.

Yes i was very cold thats why i left the bleeding of the system until tomorrow

Okay the discs and pads are all now swapped over, just got to bleed the system in the morning. Thank you everybody for your help.

Very good

Looks like i have only got 6. Im off to get the parts now. Cheers Western?

Oh and thinking about it last night im sure my Rangie is meant to have ABS. It has what looks like the ABS sensor going into the top of the CV housing, it has twin rear flexible hoses going to the rear axle (which the manual states is an ABS model), and the drive member is not captive on the drive shaft. Yet the master cylinder does not seem to be a birds nest of brake lines as depicted in the manual, i have never felt any ABS kicking in but then i have never had the wheels anywhere near locking. Are these parts that i need the same part numbers as on an ABS or non-ABS axle?

I have managed to get it all striped down and the discs changed over tonight, in the morning i can collect the parts and get it all back together. Oh i managed to move the callipers without splitting the pipes due to the flex in the rigid brake lines.

I have brought a box spanner now, but that socket is a good idea. As i was reading the manual i was thinking how the hell am i meant to torque the bearing nuts with a box spanner?

Thats about what i am expecting but if it gets it running again it worth it.

How much was the rebuild? Does anybody know how much a recon. fuel injection pump is?

when unbolting the brake calipers, will i need to undo the brake lines or can i bend the caliper out of the way?

I have just been down to the Bosch agent and explained the symptoms of the wolf and he said the fuel stop solenoid doesn't normally break. Apparently the case hardening on the inside of the fuel injection pump breaks off and floats around the inside of the pump messing it up. And the fuel stop solenoid is an electromagnet, which attracts these parts of metal jamming it in the process.

Do fuel injection pumps fail very often on 300tdi's?

Im confused with the parts diagram, I need 2 x Gasket axle shaft drive memeber 2 x Washer lock Is this correct so far? and then im not sure if i need item 6 or 9?

Thats good news, i should be able to get one from MM 4x4 then!

and the best place to get one of those?

My VIN is SALLHAMM3GA416578 does this fit inbetween those two (i think it does)? I can never work it out

Will i need a box spanner for this job?

I got EBC Turbo Grooved Front Brake Discs vented and EBC Extra Duty 6000 Series Green Brake Pads from Paddocks for £119.27 delivered.

I have a new set of EBC front brake discs and pads to fit to my non-ABS Range rover classic. I have seen in the manual that i need to take the wheel hub off to replace the discs. Can somebody please list the items with part numbers if possible for all the replacement gaskets etc. and other parts that should be replaced at the same time as changing the discs/pads? Thanks in advance.

Thats my plan we have one down the road. i will see if they can change the fuel stop solenoid at the same time.

I don't have that many hammers. But one of them is hand made and cost £80.

Thanks Western, but when i went back i worked it out fom the flow arrows marked on everything (for idiots like me ) As suspected the original lift pump was not faulty. It has started it's not stopping when the ignition is switched off. So the fuel stop regulator is the next thing to be replaced. after changing the lift pump i noticed a bolt or similar on the injector pump was pushing out diesel. Its the triangle shape bolt on the side of the injector pump. Not sure if was leaking before i replaced the lift pump but i dont think it was. Does anybody know whats behind it?