Ben Jordan

I have added my own bit to the product review!

Yes it is one of the change over taps. When switched to the main tank it was partially sucking from the side tank. As the side tank emptied it started sucking air hence the reason why it got worse on hills and it ended up not running. I have ordered a new one from Land rover. RRP £110+vat but the manager owed me big time so i got a discount will have to wait until Wednesday to find out if it is cured.

Cool B)

The cause of all my problems Sorry about the carp photo

Have you got ant pics of them?

Can anybody tell me where i can find the V8 plug lead clamps that hold the leads together but are not attached to the rocker covers? If you know what i mean

I managed to get it done it was dead simple once i started taking it apart. The advance mechanism is not spring loaded is it? As i pulled the Vacuum unit out it pull the pin towards the gap and stayed there so it was dead easy to hook the new one up Just making sure it's not meant to spring back. The hardest part was figuring out with of the new leads when where. I did have a bit of a problem with the engine not firing after fitting all the new bits but soon realised that i had knocked off the plug on the side of the Dizzy whilst changing the cap. I now love my V8 it is so smooth and powerful now. I must have been down on power by 50% and ive not got the new plugs yet

Thanks Geoff, I managed to get it done it was dead simple once i started taking it apart. The advance mechanism is not spring loaded is it? As i pulled the Vacuum unit out it pull the pin towards the gap and stayed there so it was dead easy to hook the new one up Just making sure it's not meant to spring back. The hardest part was figuring out with of the new leads when where. I did have a bit of a problem with the engine not firing after fitting all the new bits but soon realised that i had knocked off the plug on the side of the Dizzy whilst changing the cap. I love my V8 again, it is so smooth and powerful now. I must have been down on power by 50% and ive not got the new plugs yet

Nope still not working

I couldn't get the video to work.

I have now got a new Vacuum advance unit, Advance unit to plenum hose, Mallory plug leads, Dizzy cap, Rotor arm but im still waiting for the plugs as Steve Lund forgot to put them in the parcel. When i was testing the vacuum advance i managed to mash the vacuum advance to plenum pipe in the running engine to the vacuum advance is definitely not working. I am going to work in the Rangie tomorrow and would like it to start returning more then a 1/4 a tank of petrol for 26 miles I didn't really want to fit the parts until the plugs arrive but i would like to get the vacuum advance done today in the hope i may get a better MPG for tomorrow. Anyway i have looked through my workshop manual and it tells me how to test the ignition system how to remove and replace the dizzy but not how to replace the individual parts. The bits i would like to have an idea about before i do the job are the Vacuum advance unit and the rotor arm. The vacuum unit looks simple with its two Torx's heads (which are tiny, I have a standard set and they are way smaller than any i have, looks like a trip to Hal frauds) but the actuating arm with the hole worries me somewhat. As i dont want to take the old one out and that arm be connected to some complicated mechanism that pings out all over the place. Can you tell im used to modern electronic engines? All help gratefully received as always.

If im going to stay V8 then i will have my engine re-built.

I have now got a new Vacuum advance unit, Advance unit to plenum hose, Mallory plug leads, Dizzy cap, Rotor arm but im still waiting for the plugs as Steve Lund forgot to put them in the parcel. When i was testing the vacuum advance i managed to mash the vacuum advance to plenum pipe in the running engine to the vacuum advance is definitely not working. I am going to work in the Rangie tomorrow and would like it to start returning more then a 1/4 a tank of petrol for 26 miles I didn't really want to fit the parts until the plugs arrive but i would like to get the vacuum advance done today in the hope i may get a better MPG for tomorrow. Anyway i have looked through my workshop manual and it tells me how to test the ignition system how to remove and replace the dizzy but not how to replace the individual parts. The bits i would like to have an idea about before i do the job are the Vacuum advance unit and the rotor arm. The vacuum unit looks simple with its two Torx's heads (which are tiny, I have a standard set and they are way smaller than any i have, looks like a trip to Hal fraud’s) but the actuating arm with the hole worries me somewhat. As i don’t want to take the old one out and that arm be connected to some complicated mechanism that pings out all over the place. Can you tell im used to modern electronic engines? All help gratefully received as always.

The problem with me changing to 300tdi is i wont be able to use my nice V8 auto unless i have a conversion plate. Then i don’t think they would work to well together would they?

I think those trailers are brilliant! I will have to have a serious look at one when the next show comes round. Shame the website doesn't have that many photos.

My mate has owned the 200tdi and 300tdi and has advised me to stay well clear of the 200tdi, as they are a bitch to work on compared to the 300tdi.

Yep that worked. I wonder if she has to stand in the exactly the right place when she get's the truck out. Otherwise the doors may take her head off

Nope. But to honest i dont think the problem is with the engine.

You can say that knowing the trouble ive got with mine

Cant get the link to work

If you vote you have got to give your reasons for it, So i can understand the logic of your decision

Thats probably when i would want to own one

This thread has now been changed into Which modest engine and can be found HERE

Following on from my Ultimate engine post. I have now decided that i do not need a big horsepower engine I need a reliable engine that will produce a respectable amount of power/torque and last quite a few years, The money i then save over a higher spec enine can then be spent on axles etc. It should be transferable between land rovers but i cant see this as i problem if it fits into one of them. I will be covering about 5000 miles a year tops with the odd occasional long trip and it needs to be able to deliver the goods off road. I have put my suggestions in the poll above I would like the engine to be new or rebuilt to a standard better than new.

Are J.E. Developments (John Eales) and J.E. Engineering linked in anyway?