pinkbeef

What if I heated the exhaust by another method to evaperate the oil/water collected in it, like setting the pile of carp on fire.

Yes im going to have to try a second head, if only to discount the head from being the problem, thanks.

Its not water in the exhaust ive run it for over two hours, spent too much time on this engine, its coming out for a full strip and rebuild only way to find the fault, bugger should have dune this in the first place.

OK, I have reinstalled a new head gasket, totally cleaned both mating surfaces with scotch pad and break cleaner and she runs very well. BUT!!!! now I'm getting a lot of white smoke from the exhaust, once she has warmed up. Compression test is equal on all cylinders, between 140-150. The inlet manifold gasket is the new green gasket, shows no sing of a water leak. Inspection of the spark plugs, Gray brown deposits no sing of water or rust. Inspection of the piston crowns down the spark plug holes shows carbon deposits not steamed cleaned as you would expect from a leaking head gasket. (but the crowns do appear to be damp, which I put down to unburnt fule) Cooling system pressure test failed to find any leaks. Cooling system is not being pressurised beyond its expected running limits. No sing of coolant contamination from combustion gases or oil. No sing of contamination of the oil from water. The engine runs very well, no misfire or lack of response, in fact the only problem is the white smoke from the exhaust and I mean serious white smoke, its steam as it forms water if you place your hand the tail pipe, your hand gets soaked. Q. Has anyone got any ideas what the problem could be.

Stripped the head off again, and it looks like the gasket failed to adhesive to the block and the head. I used break cleaner to clean off any debris from both mating faces. Checked the head for level and the block its all OK. The liners are proud by 3 thou, so its fine their. I can only assume the jointing faces may still have been dirty, what can I use to clean the mating faces with. On a second note has anyone run up an engine with out water in it to get the heat up to adhesive the gasket to the block and head. Pretty risky but it would prevent contamination of the seal prior to adhesion.

OK skimmed the head and fitted the new MLS headgasket complete with head saver shim, all i need to do now is skim the head and fit a new head gasket (one that works).

Hi all, I just picked up a Freelander 1.8 K, which has a blown head gasket. Now I've sorted a few head gaskets in my time but this has me stumped. The engine oil is contaminated with water as expected, but its also very thick, It's like treacle. That's not a problem as I've washed it of, but i'm a bit concerned about the oil ways to the main bearings and the oil pump. Should I pull out the crankshaft out and flush out the oil ways too.

I got a clark bender from Machine Mart £50.00, it mounts in a vice so i can put it away when i dont need it. its one of those tools thats well worth the money

Have a read of this;......electrolyser

My wife had the same problem with her KIA, it turned out to be the nut holding the steering wheel.

What, Male Cops? Is it the uniform?

I think you need to understand the black plastic header tanks do split, but then so do the white header tanks. It all down to pressure in the cooling system which may happen due to a cooling component failure. If the pressure relief valve on the header tank cap fails to operate, then the pressure in the system will find the weakest point and it will fail. The black plastic header tanks have a lower pressure rating than the white ones. So as long as you don't allow the cooling system to fail, its not something you should worry about. Ensure the pressure relief valve is OK, in the header tank cap works. the best way to test the header tank relief valve, is to take it to land rover and say, "can i have a new one, please", do this every 50 thou miles to be sure.

It sounds as if the starter solenoid has a problem, I'm not familiar with the starter you have in your vehicle, but they work in the same way. Just in case you don't know; the starter motor requires a large amount of ampridge to turn it over ( which is why the cable is so large 10mm in size ). To avoid having to run such a large wire up to the ignition switch and having to use a large ignition switch. a solenoid is fitted to the starter motor. the solenoid is just a relay which can handle the required current. when you turn the ignition switch, you send a small current from the ignition switch to the solenoid switch. Which energises a pin, which in turn is fired into the high current contacts and connects the battery directly to the starter motor. It sounds like the solenoid is the problem, I would test this by finding the battery connection to the solenoid and the starter motor connection to the solenoid. Using a piece of metal. connect both together. CAUTION THIS MAY TURN THE STARTER MOTOR OVER AND WILL CAUSE ARKING WHEN THE CONNECTION IS MADE. --------So don't have the ignition switched on make sure the vehicle in in natural with the hand break on and keep away from any thing that will spin if the enging is turned over by the starter motor---------. If the starter motor turns then I would go with the starter solenoid. but if the starter motor turns slowley and runs down a full battery quickley, it may be the starter motor is earthing ( shagged ). but before you do this check the connections too the following are tight and sound; 1.battery live and earth. 2.starter connections to both sides of the solenoid. 3.earth from the vehicle chassis to the engine or starter motor. Don't just look at the connections, see if you can move them, look to see if there is rust preventing a good sound connection. If you have to undo the bolts and have a good look.

I think your find after your Wedding, she will have some spare cash to spend on handbags and shoes.

Here is an Image of my 200TDi enging, do thay look the same.

ok just read the rave section on the injector pump removal, CAUTION: Do not remove nut securing hub to pump. lucky for me i marked it up first, so will put it back as i found it.

OK, so I know its not any of the bottom end bearings (broke a socket undoing the main shaft caps), as I checked them. So as I had to change the timing belt, I thought id check the timing on the injector pump. So I got it off, and now I cant figure out how it can be timed. The injector pump shaft has a cut out for a woodruff key, but the injector pump sprocket has not got a grove for the key. I did take the liberty of placing marks on the componants so can put them back as before, but i would like to ensure the knocking is not down to the timing. I do have the adjusters on the sprocket as follows. I cant find any timing marks to allow me the set the sprocket and the injector pump in the correct location. I think the knocking noise may be from pre-ignition, due to wrong timing. Any one got any ideas.

No the oil light goes out, but your right if the shells wore wrong i should lose oil pressure.

I need a little advice on this. Tdi 200, 1991 Disco. I've got a big end knock and have taken the big end shells out from number one con rod, but inspection of the shells shows no damage, and very little wear. Also inspection of the crank shaft did not give any indication of wear, smooth as a baby bum. Prior to removal I did a little prodding and pulling on the con rod and it appeared to me that it was lose on the crank shaft, but as I said apart from a little shine on the top shell all seems very normal and the shells look new. Now i've carried out some work on this disco and came to the conclusion some time ago the last person who worked on it was not at all competent, examples of this are Copper Ease used instead of Locktight on the break calliper bolts, break shoes fitted using nails instead of slit pins. The rear floor replacement far below an acceptable standard tc, etc. Anyway back to the point; I'm thinking the shells fitted ( standard size ) are wrong, and the shells should be +10 oversize. What I need to know is the crank shaft measurement across the big end section for a standard size shell. If any one knows the dimensions or if any one has one handy and could mic it up I would be very grateful. Or if any one has any ideas ill listen to them.

Im trying to remain indifferant, but I would like DIYers to think before making repairs. Im not saying the repair is not sound, i dont know, ive not seen it tested. and bearing in mind the Land Rover Seris, is little more than a bolt togather kit. but its the rule of law thats important here.

No one needs to test the joint you have created, as agency's from around the world have already tested many vehicles repaired to a sub-standard. That is why we have the MOT rules. The British Government did not sit down and decide, “how can we fcuk around the general driver”. The idear is to ensure all vehicles on our roads are safe, and that is right. You may think the repair is sound, but this means nothing if your insurance company decides, the vehicle was un-roadworthy and therefore you are in breach or your insurance agreement and the policy is void. If your sure the joint is sound, fire a letter of to your insurance company quoting this thread and publish the response you get.

I have a Disco 1 which had a problem engaging reverse, the disco 1 has the reverse on the far left. I also noticed the gear stick was very floppy, and would not return to the central position when I let go of it. The gear lever is held in the central position by a spring which is held in place by an 'L' shaped bracket, which had snapped and was lodged between the gear stick and the case preventing the gear lever from being pushed over to the far left. As you will need to remove the gear stick central counsel to remove the gearbox, I suggest you do this first and check to ensure the small 'L' shaped bracket is not broken and jamming the gear leaver.

I had the same thing happen to mine, the door was adjusted wrong. to keep out the water the last owner decided to adjust the door so that you had to slam it shut real hard, this kept the lock strained aginset the pole on the side of the chassie which it locks around. I got wifey to sit inside the car and she held open the door release lever and pushed on the door. i was on the outside and used my shoulder aginst the door to push it closed after a couple of hard shoves by me it moved in enought to allow the lock to release from the pole. keep yor weight on the very edge of the door so not to dent the rear panel.

when I steamed cleaned mine, it unglued it from the fiberglass headliner. so i just stuck it back on with no ill effects. before it reglued it back on i lightly sanded the fiberglass head liner to remove old glue and fabric.

No the washer- front hub thrust is the ring around the outside marked in this photo, the bearing I mean is this one in this image, which was used before the needle roller bearing was used. This shows the bearing, both before removal and after removal. There was no oil seal and with the bearing in place there is no room for an oil seal.