Young bobtail Rhys
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Posts posted by Young bobtail Rhys
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Ok, Thanks to all so far. How much are we talking for these recommendations here???
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I have got myself some qt radius arms to fit and need to know what poly bushes to buy? I have briefly looked them up on the internet and it says that yellow ones are a hard kit which is better for off road
However, I thought that the orange ones would be better as they are softer, so therefore will give slightly more flex for off road use?Any Idea's????
Also, when I buy, where should I buy from, i.e best price, customer service etc?
TIA
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Right here I am
The guys at BT fab are fantastic. The kit that I have comprises of;
- 10, 32 bolt hole 6mm rings
- 160 stainless allen bolts
- 160 stainless nuts and spring washers
- 4 longer allen bolts
- 5 fibre belts
- and instructions of course
Unfortunatly, I cannot remember what I paid for them, but inclusive with postage they were £265, and in my opinion they are top dollar beadlocks.
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Isn't the correct name the challis?
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I think it all depends really on what make of lights you are planning to use. On my old rangie I had 4 7" round cibie oscars, and they looked superb, however I don't think they look quite right on a defender as the lights are a little too classic. Where as the smaller 150-170mm lightforce lights look really inkeeping with the defender and IMHO look better than the square lights, then again PIAA and IPF make some very nice looking square lights.
HTH
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Thing is, the government haven't actually informed "us" that the tax has risen to upto the £455, they just said that the car tax will rise, but not informing us exactly how much and have not properly publicised the exact rise. Also they have put the tax back from 2004 higher taxed cars to 2001. Why? We have a 53 plate td5 es disco and that will cost to tax in a few years....£455. However, a Hummer H2 with a 6.2 v8 drinks like a fish and weighs as much as a house, but will cost exactly the same???? They say it is all done by emissions, but they have only put it back to 2001, so you can own a Ferrari F40 with its twin turbo v8, and churning out loads of bad emissions, but will only cost you £200 to tax!!! Is it just me or is this whole idea crazy?
Rhys
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Gwyn Lewis for me, as I have it as well
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I suppose as long as you can get spare replacment parts, service parts etc. then it will be fine. Although, on some it is interesting to see what gear ratio it is fitted with as some with the 315:1 or simular are very slow, however, it staes that it is fitted with the 233:1 ratio which is very simular to the x9 (slightly faster infact) so the line retrieval speed will be acceptable for most applications.
HTH
Rhys
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Would also like to say that my uncle has a soft dash rangie with the etc and 24 splines (I think) and he drives it like a proper comp safari. On average about 1 or 2 wheels on the ground
It seems to be very capable, but he has not broke anything.........yet! So how come? Does the etc give more cushion on the drivetrain etc. Although, he has broke a gearbox!!!! -
Here's the thread i started last year. Has alot of info in it.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...=Axle+Internals
I am running 24 spline rear diff with V8 Halfshafts. The front axle is running 24 Spline diff with Early 90/110 hub assemblies to suit the older CV's.
Hope this helps?
Thank you, will give it a good read through
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I don't claim to be an expert. I report what I know to be fact not what my mate's mate mother who married what s is name says. Don't do hearsay Thats all cool then
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Yes I have noticed that the sailsburys don't give as much diff clearance. I mean, at the end of the day, whatever I put on my rangie I will break. I am going to be running 34" ltb's with beadlocks and standard chocolate axles
Completely the wrong way of doing things but hey I realise you weren't trying to dig at me, its just your absolutly right on who to believe really as I have heard all sorts about the axles and read all sorts too. -
I have done the serach on here, as I always do. However, I just wanted to make sure and get a abit of advice on what would be best to do, as I have broken 3 diffs in the space of a year and I am lucky if the bob goes out once every 2 months
Oh, and I don't class myself as a hard driver What do we think about the sailsburys front and rear? -
Does the 300 series have 24 splines? and is it worth upgrading my 10 spline axles to 24 as they are a bit stronger, or are they not strong enough i.e cadbury axles, and still break with fair ease? Obviously the answer is go to ashcroft etc. uprate internals but I am on a very tight budget, so would this be worth while to me? Or big jump, go for sailsburys front and rear with discs, but they are expensive, but will I still break them?
TIA
Rhys
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I realise all the younger & not presently own a LR members want to have the LR pleasure, but if I was in that position, I'd go for a smaller vehicle & cheaper insurance & get the driving experience & knowledge first & carefully build your 'no claims' bonus & save for the LR you want at the same time & build up the research to help when the time arrives where it's possible to buy one.
I'm still on my 1st & last LR, only owned it since '93 & wouldn't be without it.
I will start driving on the road in November and my car will be a little 1.4hdi 206 pug. £35 tax, 65mpg and insurance group 4, ticks all the boxes for me!! I have to go for this, as I would find it very hard and expensive to insure a fully prep'd bobtail
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Personally, I don't like it as it is too bulky and plasticy/cheap for my liking. But 530 euros doesn't sound cheap
No grill with a whopping great big intercooler looks pretty dam good
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I guy who lives just across the road from me builds the cobra's etc. he might be able to direct you to an "urgent" ecu. Check out his web site for details Roger Klimke Racing
HTH
Rhys
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Will this be a first car Josh? If so you will need a lot of dosh to insure it! Also, a mate of mine has a 200 disco commercial and because it is a "commercial" it is higher to insure.
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RBR developments can make pretty much any cage for very reasonable prices
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They can be a PITA to get in and out of, but it all depends on how high your truck is. I had some cobra monaco's fitted in a rangie but took them out as I never really benefited from them. They are piece of cake to fit. All I did was remove the original seat and runner and replace it with the cobra seat on some runners and a piece of alli plate fixed to the bottom to fix to the seat mount.
HTH
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Thanks Steve for clarifying.
Rhys with that in mind can I point you towards:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25186
Especially post number35 in that thread.
I think so-It might be-it is worth a try etc etc are not worth typing on here as it ends up misleading people who may know far less than others.
Sorry guys, and yes I have already been reading through that topic as it was on going. It is just that I have read "somewhere" can't recall where though that it was e-marked and bf where planning to put them the uk. Anyway I am posting rubbish again
Back to topic -
I think my truck would be overkill at a SLRC event!
Completely! But, come along and watch or I am going to be in it but because of my age I can only co-drive, so if you fancy a drive in a small challenge Chris..............
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Also another difference between the bf crawler and the mt2 is the crawler is not e-marked and not for highway use. This mt2 is e-marked etc. so that is a definate sign that it is not as agressive as th4e crawler and like steveb said, the blocks are closer together so there is a big enough contact path for road users
Does look quite good though
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Look on the engine where the accelerator cable goes on to a bracket assy on the intake, there is a second cable (kickdown cable) which comes off from here and goes down to the autobox which is what "senses" the pedal position. You simply loosen the locknuts and adjust this by a whisker so the autobox governor "thinks" you are using more throttle than you actually are and this livens up the response at part throttle. I can't recall offhand how much I adjusted mine - but it was only a couple of millimetres. There is a "crimped nipple" (workshop manual term!) on the inner core of the kickdown cable which is supposed to be 1mm out from the end of the cable outer (described from RAVE) with the throttle closed, so basically a whisker more than that and see how you like it after a slight adjustment. I just did mine with trial and error. A very small tweak makes a hell of a difference and totally transformed the driveability.
What you also need to do is check (with the engine off!) that you can get full travel on the throttle pedal so it hits the stop before the kickdown cable comes under tension and the limit of travel of whatever is located in the governor and takes all the strain, because somebody once told me that if you over-do it, you rip the guts out of the governor end (or snap the cable) when you boot the throttle hard, and either of these is a PITA!
Cheers for that, will give it a go
However, I thought that the orange ones would be better as they are softer, so therefore will give slightly more flex for off road use?
It seems to be very capable, but he has not broke anything.........yet! So how come? Does the etc give more cushion on the drivetrain etc. Although, he has broke a gearbox!!!!
Completely the wrong way of doing things but hey 
Oh, and I don't class myself as a hard driver
Latest rear mounted tanks -any good?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have an internal tank and its great.........sort of, but its in a rangie