Young bobtail Rhys
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Posts posted by Young bobtail Rhys
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RBR Delevopments will uild you a cage to your spec and for a pretty good price.
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A pic will be on within a hour, so watch this space..........
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If you have an auto then it could be something to do with the it not locking up into 4th, which it will then rev alot more and drink fuel like crazy.
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The pin looks to be fine and everything else in the diff is, whats looks to be, in very good condition
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I think I am right in saying that the later 300tdi auto's had the electronic module, so can be chipped +15bhp so thats a bonus over the manuals, but they are a little sluggish.
A 100" wb is better for the steeper inclines and decents but a 90" wb is better through tight and twisty sections.
Personal preference I would say
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i dont know alot about diffs but it would seem one of your planet gears have seazed up maby due to a small amount of dirt or its got hot due to bearing failure
correct me if im wrong
watson
I don't think that the planet and sun wheels have bearings within that cage???
I am puzzled, and no its not an april fools
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WOW!!!
Complex, unique and "kin" hard to fit by the looks of things 
But what a set of wheels there Nige 
Can't wait to see them in action.Tell me, how much do they weigh each? I have just had some single beadlocks made on some 7x16 modulars, and they weigh 19kgs each complete.
Rhys
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I have some
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My diff has locked itself (like an arb locked diff) but still remains completely intact
The oil from the diff was fine and did not have any metal or metalicness to it. The diff looks fine. The backlash is pretty good, all of the teeth on the pinion, sun and planet wheels are in good order.
However, when two half shafts are put in and the flange from where the propshaft is turned, the half shafts will rotate forwards and back smoothly with no problems until you try to stop one of the half shafts from rotating......Because it won't. No matter how hard I grip either half shaft alternatly, they will keep rotating. The planet and sun wheels are locked and will not move.
When it happened on the road it started off as a clicking noise, which I assumed was a broken cv joint. We then nursed it home and the clicking turned into a knock, then into a bonk which would only happen when turning and driving forward. The noise which was now a bonk, shook the axle and the car alot. Until it decided to stop, completely. Once we got home the cv's came out, and nothing wrong with them. Half shafts also fine. And then the diff, which is as above now.
So, what have I done to my diff, or rather what has my dad done to my diff?
TIA to all you rocket scientists
Rhys
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ah i see now, i was thinking they were being used for sealing something, thanks for that its been a great help, be good to see your wheels with some creepies fitted
Was going to fit creepys but then went and bought some super swamper ltb's, 34/10.5r16. Going to be with me in 2 weeks as they are still on the boat...........................coming from California
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Yes, I know that bit as the later HSE models on the p38 had it on the front axle as well. 1999 onwards I believe.
Thanks
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Martin.
Here is a pic of the fibre belt in place
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Hi Martin,
The fibre belts are infact fan belts which are the exact size to fit inside the ring. These stop the rings being pulled in at an angle, applying increased stress on the bolts and possibly warping the rings. They also stop any mud or water getting in between the two rings and stop potential rust/corrosion etc.
I had a good friend weld the rings on, but it really isn't that difficult as long as you can produce a good penetrated weld.
The rings fit inside the wheel rim and what we did was grind down the edge of the beadlock ring to create a radius so the weld pool could run inside creating higher penetration and therefore an air tight weld.
Personally, I would recommend a beadlock kit which has the 32 bolt holes as more tension can be applied to the bead of the tyre giving a much tighter seal and it also means each bolt requires less torque. i.e, mine will have 5ft lbs torque at each bolt giving a total of 160ft lbs gripping the bead of the tyre.
Also, if you do end up running the beadlocks they will become great parteners with the maxxis cc, as running those tyres at low pressure will create a lot of grip because of their rock crawling nature, this is what they are designed to do
HTH
Rhys
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But what they fail to realise is that the vast majority of the off roading community do follow the rules and are considerate.
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Just as an aside, I have a 2002 TD5 D2 and the road tax is still the same...
Looking through the web on "Parkers" I think, and according to them tax is rising fast. In a couple of years it will be over £400 for our 53 reg td5 disco
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Indeed, and shock towers and all sorts of other stuff too, Gwyn is a good bloke, knows his stuff.
I can second that. Have bought challenge parts off him and have been so pleased with the way he treats his customers and the quality of his products, I am going to be ringing him up tomorrow and ordering a pair of his trailing arms
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My beadlocks are from bt fabrications. 32 bolt hole rings and also come with the fibre belts so the stainless bolts sit flat.
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Ok, thank you Jon
Rhys
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They will fit but you will find that the sidewalls will bulge a bit, meaning that the tread may become rounded and you contact path decreases. So, you may need to run your tyres at a little lower pressure, or (depends on what you are doing with them) you can weld on the diy beadlocks (like I have) which will then increase the rim width to around 8.5", depending on the thickness of your sidewall.
HTH
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Can anybody tell me whether the rrc soft dash vogue 3.9 on a 94 m, had traction control?
TIA
Rhys
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You could keep the engine mounts where they are and put the rad in the back along with the intercooler and then run kenlowe fans on both.
Mog axles are very strong so on land rovers I wouldn't have thought that they should break. But they are also very heavy, and one of the killers in challenge trucks is the weight side
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24V wont fry cables as there is half the current going through them. you'll probably find standard winch motors wont last as long tho.
my EP probably matches a single motor 8274 for speed with 24v going through 12v motors.
next weekend will be the real test as it will be the first time i've run it all in anger on an event. watch this space....
So as the motors don't last long what goes on them? The brushes? Are they repairable after they have been run for a period on 24v instead of 12v? Also, how had is it to wire it up to 24v? How do you convert it?
Lots of questions
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Somone like Les or Western will jump in here and explain in detail but basicly the 300tdi is a little more refined than the 200. The later 300s have a basic ECU and all the 300s have modern pullies (not V belts) They are about the same power as the 200, a tiny bit quieter (apparently) and the oil dip stick is in a different place
The water pump is also in a different place and to change the cambelt on a 300tdi, it is alot easier than a 200tdi, as the 200 has to have the water pump taken off.
However, they all say that the 200tdi is the stronger engine
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on the overun it could be the prop? Maybe dry on lose?
But what a set of wheels there Nige 
Can't wait to see them in action.
What has happened to my diff?
in International Forum
Posted
Right you lot
Here they are but my hands aren't too steady plus my camera has managed to turn off atou focus or something, so they aren't very good, but anyway.................