Young bobtail Rhys
-
Posts
663 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Young bobtail Rhys
-
-
Very temping.................if I had a driving license
-
-
Is that suposed to be a link? It doesn't work
-
Shall I bite the bullet and not run tubes then?
And then try Rizla1's method as that sounds to be quite good 
-
We have a td5 disco auto and when towing we get around 18mpg and when not around 21mpg
-
Moving the centres means you don't need to buy spacers Seriously, though, its not too bad when you get the hang of it. Grind out welds, remove centre mit LARGE hammer and wooden block, clean up the shell and the centre, fit roughly into correct position, build a stub axle and hub on the bench and check run out with a dial gauge, use smaller hammer to adjust, tack weld and give to your mate to finish the job.
Alternativly just live without spacers. True you loose a little lock but you can drive round it. IMHO if your budget's tight don't spend the money on them.
Ok, cheers for that
In the near future I will consider this and for now they will be run without spacers and I will just have to see how I get on -
YBR, for the bolts get yourself an air powered ratchet and run it at low air. That should give you the 5-10 lb/ft you need. You also want a few longer bolts to squeeze the ring down a bit first.
You're bolt ring also looks like quite a small diameter. Ideally you want the daimeter to be the same as the bead (or as close to as is possible) so you self centre the tyre. If this isn't the case the tyre tends to move out of balance.
Spacers are the devil's work - I hate them. Is it maybe worth thinking about moving the centres on the rims you've got??? It takes a while but is a fairly straight forward job on new rims.
omg what have I done
Should have stuck with normal rims I can get hold of an air ratchet from a friend so that will be ok I do have the four longer bolts to squeeze it down
The ring looks smaller as the weld hangs around it. It has been ground to a radius so no sharp edges.
Moving the centre back
The wheel will go way out of balance then won't it??? I haven't got the money to be spending on that atm. Also sounds like alot of work. And for me I have bigger problems than that atm. Like my standard drivetrain ticking until it goes pop, as these tyres are agressive and then producing even more grip aired down with beadlocks 
Props are at a stretch with the gwyn lewis kit so they are coming up for order, along with the winning lotery ticket 
-
RV - How did you remove the ribs from the inside of the tyres? This may explain why some of mine seal well and others do not
YBR - Remove the outer ring, lie the wheel on the floor bolt side up, place tyre on top, use prybars/levers/brute force/soap to force tyre bead over bolt ring, centralise tyre on bolt ring, place removable ring on top, insert bolts, torque, inflate tyre until bead seats, reduce/increase pressure as required
There is a thread on the forum with some advice for tyre fitting, it remains conspicuous by its absense from the tech archive. Here
£455 sounds expensive for your wheels, mine where £100 for five brand new rims, £100 for the laser cut rings, £80 for the powdercoaing (which was a rip off and a P*ss poor effort)
Ok Thanks for that info there
The wheels were £170 for 5 and the rings £225 for 10 32 bolt hole rings 160 bolts, 160 washers, 106 spring washers, 160 bolts, 160 nuts and instructions, 5 fibre belts etc. and then paint and cost of having them welded etc. It is recommended from bt fab that I run tubes. Should I or shouldn't I? Because tubes only cover one problem, and then create alot more. If air can get through the unsealed bead then water will proberly as well and in an extreme case grit or dirt in the water and then fiction inside causes punctures.
And to top it all off, the tyres that I have coming are bias ply or known to us as cross ply. So the car will need to be raised off the floor or the wheels removed every time that I am not using it for a while as the tyres will turn into something along the lines of what Fred Flintstone has and I don't realy want flat spots on my tyres for the next 5miles or so until they re-shape
-
And finally...........
As you can see I have been lazy and only painted the side that you can see well with some mixed up hammerite. Its not going to last along with the orange ring that I sprayed
Eventually they will be powder coated. And as for cost.......... 5 wheels and beadlocks welded/fitted and painted (by me)................£455
I don't think thats too bad, considering if you were to buy mach 5 beadlock and obviously there is much more strength, asthetics and quality but they will set you back £915 plus painting.
-
A couple........
-
Another one.........
-
Only one as can't hold any more..............
-
Will proberly take up quite a few posts to get all of the pics in as they are all high res
-
Will get more pics soon. Backspacing, don't know. All I know is that they are 25mm each more off set than standard disco steels.
The beadlocks are from bt fabrications, and are single beadlocks. Great items.
The wheels are 16x7 and then with the beadlocks 8.5" wide.
Got a friend to weld the beadlocks on, but the wheels were just normal modulars for around £30 each.
The tyres going on will be super swamper ltb 34/10.5 r16
I will also being running 30mm wheel spacers so I can return some of my steering lock.
As for the sealing, I am not quite sure what you mean??
And the bolts should not become a problem rubbing up against rocks as I don't drive where there are any, but normal ruts may become a problem in the long run.
-
It's all typical land rover's isn't it
Mine requires attention as well -
Hi all,
Now my beadlock wheels are finally complete and painted up I am just waiting for my tyres to arrive from California. However, when the time comes to fit my tyres, I need a little info on how to go about it. I have a few basic instructions but need a little more indepth answers from you guys and any pointers if any.
Now, I have access to a tyre fitting machine but so it seems you don't need one as you can use tyre levers for this and I don't think a 34" tyre will fit on this particular machine
Another thing that I noticed is that the ss ltb's are 8ply rated so will this make fitting them a bit harder? Or very hard Oh, and then I have the joy of putting in 160 bolts and torqued to 5ft lbs each,
great Any way here's a little piccy of one of the wheels;
-
surely the 12v motors won't last very long when 24v is going through them?
-
btw, going slightly off topic here but, what are the simex et2's like then as they are a little wider and have the extra centipede row in the centre and have a slightly softer compound??? Oh, and this is for off road use as obviously they are hopeless on the road too
-
They're ear plugs. If the only problem is noise then its probably a better bet than a second set of tyres.
If you do really want a second set its really down to personal preferance. I like BFG Muds although I'd go for 255x85x16's (a little smaller than 35" Simex).
Steve, FYI tyres don't need to be E marked - they just need to be DOT approved to the equivilent standard (I can't remember the number off the top of my head)
-
Sorry the link doesn't work
What tyres are they then? -
also the comeup ds9.5 that is exactly the same speed as a warn 9.5ti. To speed up an ep9 you can fit a bowmotor though can't you????
-
What about the bf goodrich 35/12.5r15 or the maxxis creepy crawler in the same size. Both down on road noise.
-
Delphi de-carbons are good. Koni are better and old man emu are the best. It all depends on what you are doing and how much you want to spend. It also helps to have the same dampers all round to balance the car.
HTH
-
Thing is, how many batteries would he require to run four 24v motors and how bigger alternator or how many alternators?
Also, as the wazza system fits onto the xp motor, can you run it on an xp winch? Or would the internals wear and brake very quickly like on the 8274, although the xp is a much slower winch and therefore more gentle on components?
Is that suposed to be a link? It doesn't work 
And then try Rizla1's method as that sounds to be quite good 
In the near future I will consider this and for now they will be run without spacers and I will just have to see how I get on 
Should have stuck with normal rims 
Props are at a stretch with the gwyn lewis kit so they are coming up for order, along with the winning lotery ticket 
Seats For Challenge Vehicle
in International Forum
Posted
I had some cobra monaco le vinyl bucket seats and they went as they were just too hard to get in and out.
Your seats Chris look very good, for that price they might go on my "to buy" list 