cypermethrin

Handbrake light on dash has stopped working; removed handbrake gaitor to examing connection and th connector is clearly broken on the switch. However if I hold single wire to the handbrake housing to ground the dashlight remains off Is there a fuse to check too ? As always thanks in advance...

Thanks guys ..... You are right changed the indicator stalk...... Same problem.....so definately the main light switch....

I know this is a topical question and the symptoms are side light and full main beam work fine. But switching small light switch stalk to have the headlights on results in nothing - even the dash indicator for the lights goes out I know 1/ its not the Pink relay behind the dash 2/ its not the relay in tge fuse panel behind the gearstick 3/all fuses good So its down to either the long indicator stalk or the smaller light switch stalk ? I presume its more likely to be the indicator stalk rather than the sidelight/headlight switch but how can I tell which is duff ? Thanks in advance for your counsel

I agree 100 percent - sadly they used to be good and I trusted them. That ship has sailed.

I think you may be onto something there Red90 - many thanks for your help and counsel....

I have just been out in the truck to confirm I am not going mad and can report as follows The transfer lever knob is definately on the right way ! All 6 postions on the '8' are selectable as normal The diff light comes on when lever is pushed to left hand side and off to right hand side Normal road speeds and gearing can only be achieved by placing lever into 'L' (i.e., top right hand side) Moving into 'H' (i.e., bottom right hand side) engages low ratios and asdociated low speed and high revs Before it went into the garage it was definately working correctly with 'H' used for road speeds I am completely at a loss

So it could be the linkages are not setup correctly to reflect the "8" ? All they did was chnage the clutch and not do anything with the transfer box

The knob is indeed on the correctway around. I know it sounds crazy but the truck wizzes around perfect road speeds in "L" and move it to "H" its all slow and high revving. Utterly bizarre. And moving the lever to the left illuminates the diff light

OK so the saga continues having had a new clutch fitted in the 300Tdi 90 - It seems as though the usual configuration of the transfer box is messed up. This is what I believe should be happening:- On the transfer box to the right-hand side of the "H" H = top right = High range which gives you your normal gears perferct for normal driving L = bottom right = Low range is forward and to the right(straight forward from high range) (And to the left of the "H" is the above but with the diff-lock engaged). However it now seems that the H and L have been transposed - so I get normal drive and speeds whilst in "L" and changing to "H" engages the low ratios and assoicated low speeds. Now clearly the garage are a bunch of numpties and should have checked all of this etc....... but is this a simple fix as I am reluctant to take it to them without knowing the "cure" ! Thanks again for your help -

I see what you did there ! Its been a long day

So our 300tdi R380 '97 Defender needs a new clutch - it slips in third and fourth and its hard to get into any gear when cold. Local LR specialist charges 60 pounds an hour plus VAT labour. They have estimated 8 hours labout which to me seems very excessive. i recognise that the exhaust and stuff needs to come off and the transmission dropped etc. But I recall the official LR labor time is just under 6 hrs I was born at night but not last night - this to me seems excessive What should it take / cost ?

Just checked it is the A frame ball joint - apolgises for the confusion

I think i must be going mad as i am sure the MoT showed be an arm that was connected to the floor of the rear tub and made the comment 'oh look its starting to perish but it doesnt take any real load so I'll pass it this time but you should get it replaced etc'

I think you guys have stumbled on it despite my poor description So the A frame ball joint that is connected to the floor of the tub - how easy is it to replace the bush in the ball joint ? Or is it easier to replace the whole unit ? i presume the latter

I would do but the truck is getting a new clutch and is in the garage !

Ok numptie question What is the name of the bush that is located under the floor in the centre of rear tub of the 90 which you can see when looking underneith from the rear ? The MoT chap noticed it had perished but I have no idea what its called to sort it/ replace it ? Your counsel is much appreciated

Thanks for the counsel chaps much appreciated

Noticed a small leak from the underside of my 300tdi and thought it was the vacuum pump again. ut closer inspection showed it was due to a leak of diesel from somewhere close to the 2nd injector. The below picture should show what I am wittering about..... The overbraided spill pipe to the right hand side is wet with diesel up to about an inch. The left hand one is dry. The diesel seems to be puddling around the injector and overspilling down the block. I have taken the riight hand spill pipe off and certainly the fit to the banjo unit was loose compared with the other end. Not sure why the pipe is wet an inch above but I am presuming this is most likely be due to a split spill pipe rather than anything more complex with the injector itself ? Thanks as always

This post from another forum helped me with a similar problem The hard part is finding the source of the leak, fixing it usually quite easy. Where exactly is the oil appearing? what type of oil is it? how much oil is leaking?. A leak from the flywheel drain hole can come from 3 likely sources - 1) The engine is loosing oil, probably from the crankshaft rear seal, that oil is usually black or dark brown in colour and tastes like engine oil . Not too bad if the leak is small, say approximately one spoonful of oil per day. 2) The main gearbox is loosing oil through the input shaft seal, that oil may, be red in colour, again a minor leak is not the end of the world but if not fixed it could eventually turn embarrasingly expensive. 3) The clutch slave cylinder is leaking, the oil may be light/golden brown colour, relatively easy to fix but if you loose more than a couple of spoonfuls of oil you will have no clutch . A leak from above the top of the gearbox may simply be coming from the engine rocker cover and is easy enough to repair/replace.

Thanks Neil will give that a go...

Hi Tweedyduck I have already stripped out all the carpeting from footwell. the back of the footwell is dry, and the water can be seen dripping out of the blower vent directly onto the floor and puddling

Hi Western Have already checked and resealed these. There was a leak from that plate which resulted in water coming down the clutch pedal. but the other leak definately comes out through the driver's blower vent directly under stering cowl

The elusive water leak which results in water coming in through the driver's ducting below the steering column is really starting to bug me! I have replaced vent flap seals; sealed the windscreen - bulkhead gap; Tiger sealed all the obvious bits and even fitted bungs for the bulkhead holes on the inner of the bonnet hinges. Passenger side blower vent remains dry. But driver's side is where the water does come in. Any clues appreciated.... Even thinking about removing all the dash to see where its coming in but before I do over to you wise folk Many thanks

Cheers SteveG - glad to reassured that indeed I am a numptie !

I am sure this a numptie question but hey ! Been offered a genuine LR radio higher spec unit with the Aux input out of a 2012MY Defender 110XS. Will it transplant into my 90 300 tdi of 1997? Current unit in mine has std ISO connectors?