cypermethrin

Well the washing up liquid tricks did the trick nicely. also found the soucre if the drivers footwell leak. The top left hand nut and bolt of the pedal box was loose alliwing water to ingress and then drip onto accelerator pedal and floor. Its only taken two years to find the source!!

Thanks for the tip - I'll let you know how it goes !

Just had a look at my 300 tdi ..... Both are missing ! May be one of the reasons it leaks like a sieve!

I have tred and failed to find the thread. So are the holes in the bulkhead along the line where the bonnet meets the bulkhead?

Well The search facility works..... Here a link to a previous thread showing the location.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58603&hl=+bonnet%20+buffer#entry513141

I was wondering where these actually go in the bulkhead..... As apparently water ingress can happen if they are not fitted. I have a 1997 300 tdi and am not sure if i actaully should have them..... But i do know that a get water in through the driver heater vent... So... Were should these go ?

Quite tempted by these LEDs - will these be OK through an MoT ?

So I am in need of a new front prop to hoefully cure the resonation from the front suspensions. But there are a bewildering slection to choose from wrt manufacturers. see here https://www.lrdirect.com/TVB100610-Propshaft-Front-Ds1-Def-4Cyl/?sfi=TVB100610&keep_https=yes I am strangely not drawn to Britpart - but then noticed that that Hardy Spicer were the source. What is the view on the All-Makes which on the above link does seem to be abit of a bargain at 60 pounds delivered. Thanks

Perfect thanks as always Western

I am after some wisdom on the correct wiring to the back of a Defender interior light switch (PRC7371). Its the 2 position model controlling the interior light and the instrument cluster light I have the following wiring from the loom Purple/blue door switches to grd purple 12v live Earth And then the new light cabling which is an LED strip with a +ve and an earth. So the basic question is how to correctly wire this up to the unit shown below ?? The front and back of the switch looks like this

Thanks chaps.....

Ok.... So finally got around to doing this and found that there is not drain plug on any of the swivels...... So begs the obvious question of how do you get the old oil out ?? Or is it just a matter of using the one-shot stuff and not draining ? cheers

Thanks for confirming

I have been trying to install an interior light in my soft top ... It was orginally a hard top I have located the purple blue wires which run from the bulkhead loom into the door pillars for the door switches I have also found the black earth and live purple and the other end of the door switch purple blue wires behind the dash. So far so good But i have also comes across this white plastic connector with two wires attaced... White and the other white and green. Any clues what these are for ?? The best i can come up with is that its the rear window heater switch..... Which no longer exists!

Thanks as always Western

I am installing a courtesy light into my 90 soft-top and need to fit the door switches and hook up the loom etc I have comes across two part numbers PRC8548 = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-DOOR-INTERIOR-LIGHT-SWITCH-PRC8548-/370563686394?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5647511ffa and AFU4241 = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Defender-Courtesy-Light-Switch-AFU4241L-/221048504049?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3377847ef1 and TBH can't tell the difference Any clues which is best ?

Also local to you are..... Rovertune Ltd Unit 2 Bridgewater Close Reading, Berkshire RG30 1JT Tel 0118 950 2777 Fax 0118 950 2776 Mob 07833 995 664 / 07770 544 990 Berkshire Land Rover Unit 3 Silco Drive Maidenhead Berkshire SL6 1ET Telephone 01628 566247 Fax 01628 461182

Remove the front prop and drive it..... I would guess there is some play in the diff which resonates at certain revs

J2J I have a couple i can put in the post for you. PM me your address and i ll post them over. Tim

Thanks all... I will be doing a one-shot and a slug of EP90..

So learned folk - should I be using the one-shot swivel grease (STC3435) or the standard gear oil EP80W90 on my swivels in my '97 90 300 TDi ? I read this http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/SwivelHousing.htm but it did not really provide any counsel on which is best or not ?

HI Western - thanks for the info as always. Can you educate me more on these "bonnet edge buffers" - I see the picture in the link - but have no idea where these should be fitted ! Thanks

Been doing this intermittently for last couple of months - was just driver's side (solved by twisting the shock) And yesterday the passenger side shock need a twist to rid of the squeak...

I have noticed that both rear shock on my 90 have the propensity to squeak - like having a small rodent in the back of the truck. The shock are 3years old and the bushes in good order. So if my son jump up and down in the back the squeak can be heard quite clearly. The noise is not coming from the bushes at either end of the shock - as it seems as though a 180 degree twist of the shock housing cures the sweak for a couple of days. What can I do to permanently rid the rodent noises ? Thanks as always

The below from V8Freak (Neil) in a previous post may be worth checking................. ________________ The slow MPH vibrations sounds like the front prop offset..... I had this for ages. Check that the front prop UJ's are not in line.... If you can picture being under the truck looking forward, the front UJ's should be 45 degrees in front off the back UJ. That is 45 degrees anticlockwise compared to the rear UJ on the same prop. (Rear prop should be in line) Hope it cures the problem for you. Neil