cypermethrin

I have an '08 Puma 110 std sw with 60k miles on it - noticed the inner sill rails at the bulkhead end are corroded badly. In my old 90 you could bolt replacements in and out but the rail on a 110 goes from the bulkhead all the way back to the C pillar. I understand that you can unbold the bulkhead end but then need to drill out the spot welds on the b and c pillars to remove and then fit and re-weld etc. Sounds a right faff and whilst I can do the bolting and unbolting bit the welding is well beyond me. I presume that "just" bolding rather than spot welding would not provided sufficient rigidity etc ? I find it odd that there aren't any guide to do this replacement - unless you guys know otherwise..... I presume that an indie would be a couple of hours each side ? Thanks

Update - and good news - you guys were right it was an airlock in the pump Now runs sweetly and no leaks - massive thank you to all those that have helped - greatly appreciated tim

Thanks guys - thus is why I love this forum

So am I looking for the banjo bolt shaft of the return spill lime or something else.... sorry if I am being dim...

Thank you both for your help and suggestions. i am stuggling to identify the "the tiny bleed hole is blocked in the return line banjo bolt at the top rear of the pump".... is this it ? thanks https://www.paddockspares.com/mjn100910-fuel-spill-return-pipe-300tdi.html

Removed the fuel stop solenoid again and refitted it without the plunger Same result - engine turns over no firing, no fuel being pumped out of injector - so must be a goosed fuel injector pump - right ?

The head seal on my Bosch VE fuel injection pump has been leaking for a while; having read the internet on the potential of fixing it in situ with a nitrile seal I set about the task. it all went well - right up to the point where it was all refit, primed and ready to turn the ignition . Engine cranks on the starter - no firing. poop - checked the pump was getting fuel and the stop solenoid had voltage and tested it on the bench all good. However, despite checking and rechecking i just cant get any fuel through the pump and out of the injectors. i fear the worst. so now I have to do what I should have done at the start which is remove the pump and get my local diesel specialist to rebuild it. Before I do the removal is there anything else I should check for ? i have not touched any of the timing or any electrics - but its evident the fuel is not getting out of the pump and into the lines. If if do need to remove it is it a matter of just undoing the three bolts (not the big centre one) behind the insepection hole on the crack case and then the three bolts holding the pump to the case ? how do I ensure I dont destroy the timing ? thanks in advance its been an eventful and painful weekend tim

Thank you - that’s just what I needed

Having fixed the wayward steering with new UJs I thought I would track down what I thought was an oil leak. Turns out its a fuel leak from the injector pump as shown in the pic below It seems as though its tracking down the seal line and you can see a drop of fuel collecting below. All fuel lines an injectors are dry. Looks as though the seal as blown ? What's the progosis - is it DIY fix ? thanks as always - Tim

Thank you all

Thank you how do you adjust the steering box free play?

so OP reporting back for some further wisdom ..... panhard rod bushes changed and it’s helped a little but it’s still wandering ! i have checked the steering UJs and can’t get any movement out of the top one - but the lower one has slight movement in it which you can feel by holding the spline and applying up and down pressure. I presume that may be the culprit or should I be looking elsewhere first ?

Thanks Mike and Western track rod ends recently replaced so next stop panhard rod!

Drove my wifes 90 300tdi for the first time in awhile and nearly put the thing in a ditch due to the vague steering i find a need to constantly adjust the wheel by significant 3 inches either way to stay on course i know these things have vague steering but this is verging on the dangerous i have checked everything is tight and secure on the column - the steering box is a recon unit of about 4 years old how can i tell what needs to be done - whether its the box adjustment or bushes/UJs ? Treat me like an idiot and you wont be too far off the mark!

Thank you AV8R

I have '97 300 TDI Defender - am planning to fit new handbrake cable and service the handbrake drum etc is it possible to get the handbrake back plate drum without removing the drive flange thing ? Thanks in advance

Thanks for the advice - ended up changing both master and slave and all is now well.

My '97 300 TDI Defender started weaping from the clutch master cyclinder into the foot well - so naturally wanted to replace it with OEM The new cyclinder is fitted and surprisingly I have most of the skin on my knuckles too; the old cyclinder had alot of black gunk at the bottom of the reservoir which I presume is from the degradation of the seals and the fluid was a muddy dark color. So my question - given the state of the fluid I was going to drain out all the old fluid from the slave and refil with fresh. Is there anything else I can or should do to remove any additional gunk ? thanks in advance

I replaced the rear shocks on my 90 300tdi about 6 months ago - the bushes were pinged at the last MoT and they also squeaked like b*gg*ery. Now the new ones have started to do the same - the squeak can be temporaryily cured by rotating the outer cuff - it stops for a day or so but then its back. They shocks I fitted were Armstrong How can I get rid of the squeaking ?? Thanks in advance

Thanks Western Can you advise as to the washer part number which sit either side of the banjo attached to the pump Have looked at all the tech diagrams and sadly they only show the banjo and not the washers or nut Cheers

I think I may have it as this ..... http://www.paddockspares.com/mjn100910-fuel-spill-return-pipe-300tdi.html

Hi WesternThanks for your help - the pipe shown joins onto the pump and then goes onto to the first injector as the bleed line So in the photo below its the pipe going from top right hand corner of the picture towards the centre where it attaches to the pump and then onwardso the first injector as a bleed line

I was smug for 10 minutes having sorted the electrical gremlins - and then I spotted it..... I cleaned around the fuel lines leading to the pump to try and find it - switched on the engine and then is really Mildly miffed everywhere. The fuel line shown with the arrow in the picture is heavily pitted to the touch and needs to be replaced. Please can you kindly advise as to the part number (and if I need any of the other assocaited gaskets) and advice as to how its fitted - treat me like an idiot and you wont go too far wrong ! Many thanks Tim

I found the problem which was the bullet connector from the handbrake switch underneith and behind the drivers seat had been damaged - all is now well. Thanks everyone

Thanks Western - will have another rummage...