cypermethrin

Western you are a font of all things LR. Thanks

Good point. Just looked at mine and i need to remove the old captive non metric nuts and replace with M8 metric ones Found this site below which supplies the required and it infers it's an easy job http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Defender-Series-III-Bulkhead-Captive-Nuts-Kit_ADD9.aspx Can any wise folk confirm this plz?

Thanks for the responses I purchased the hinges from ox4x4 and they have put a video on YouTube on how to best chnage the hinges - see below... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM2ffHGXRq8

Thanks Chaps Currently there's only one shim a piece on the upper and lower hinge. So hopefully by fitting a further one or two to then lower hinge will bring the bottom out slightly. Which leaves the problem of the upper hinge having one shim and still being too proud compared with the rear tub - perhaps its just a matter of monkeying around with the striker plate to "bring it home" more tighly ?

I have just forked out on a new shiny set of stainless steel hinges to replace the rusting heaps that are currently fitted. What's the best process to follow to replace the hinges - remove door first and fit new hinge to door before offering back to bulkhead or quite what ? Also my drivers door currently fits to the frame at the bottom of the door - but fitting where the striker plate the door is not flush by about 5mm - is there any adjustment possible to the pitch and yaw of the door when fitting the hinges or do the J bolts have no adjustmnent vertically/latterally ? Hope this makes sense - thanks for your help once again

I have a 1997 90 300TDI and am need of a new indicator stalk - well actaully I just overtightened the ring attachment to the steering column and it split and it refuses to go back with SuperGlue ! AR$e. Thanks.....

To put in mildy ! Also relieved that we can now enjoy the truck. Thanks again to all the help and support.

We have finally heard back from the DVLA on their "investigation". Thankfully the prognosis is good with no chnages to our vehicle being required. The other vehicle involved (which received our "old" chassis) has had a new chassis number provided by the DVLA and stamped on the vehicle - and will probably end up on a Q plate.

Was surprisingly straight forward. Used those nice chaps at vwp to make up the 2m of 40mm2 starter cable with an 8 mm terminal end which went straight on the starter earth. Fed the cable along chassis and up into battery box. Cut off the 20 cm of cable which was not needed and then use another 8 mm terminal end and a friends crimping tool and job done. Secure new cable appropriately along way with cable ties etc. Checked all other earths while I was about it and now the starter motor is alot stronger and faster

Replaced the 60 amp blown fuse and now glow plugs working a treat Also fitted new earth 40 mm2 cable from starter earth to battery -ve Fingers crossed all this will have cured the reluctant start in the mornings Thanks again western for all your help and support

I'll take a look tomorrow thanks again western

Thanks western thAt was the circuit diagram I was referring to. Do you recon my diagnosis is correct?

Having replaced the glow plugs, ignition barrel and glow plug relay the glow plugs are still not receiving 12v This is what I know :- The dashboard lights (incl the glow plug one) all work perfectly There is continuity between the glow plugs and the black/yellow wire on the relay The yellow/black wire from the relay clearly works as that feeds the dash instrument pack The black wire from the relay has a good earth The white/red wire from relay to ignition Position II to crank the engine is working fine as the engine turns over The white wire from relay to fuse 17 and Position I on ignition is working OK as dash glow plug light working ok I understand looking at the 300tdi wiring diag that one of 60 Amp fuses in the engine compartment fusebox feeds the glow plug relay on the brown wire SO by a process of elimination it must be this 60 Amp fuse that has blown - does this fuse feed any other cicruit ? By writing this I think I have convinced myself that this is the source of the problem - unless you can tell me otherwise! Thanks

According to the VWP catalogue the tinned copper conductors make this more resistant to corrosion. For use in the auotmotive, marine and other hard environments - they do 16, 25, 35 and 50 mm2 But I went for the "normal" starter cable 40 mm2 300 Amps O/D 11.8 mm

I have just ordered 2m of 40 mm2 starter cable to do just this over the weekend. The starter I have on my 300 tdi does not have an earthring bolt on the rear of the unit so will have to use the mounting bolt and then take it all the way back into the battery box. Have managed to borrow a good crimpin device and plan to also not rely on the crimp to the chassis halfway down the current main negative lead from battery yo gearbox housing. Pretty sure this crimp is responsible for much of the reluctant starting. So will add new earth from gearbox housing to chassis instead.

Thanks jammy123 that's very informative Looking at other posts on landyzone.co.uk there seems to concensus that the 300tdi has a Bosch ve pump

So why on the 300 tdi handbook does it say the italics in the first post??

Yep you are right western...... Changed order to the 40 mm2 stuff

I am in need (once again!) of your counsel - I am intending to replace the earths from the battery to the chassis and gearbox housing and add an earth from battery direct to the starter motor. This should cure the intermitent starting issues - its definately an earth issue as connecting battery negative to engine block with jump leads cures the problem. Anyway - the plan is to use the starter cable provided by those nice chaps at VWP 16mm2 cable from battery -ve to starter earth 16mm2 cable from battery -ve to gearbox housing 16mm2 cable from gearbox housing to chassis So will the 16mm2 (110 amps; outside diameter 7.5 mm incl insulation) cable be sufficient given that the orginal battery earth lead is 40 mm2 (outside diam 11.8mm) Thanks v much

Thanks chaps learning all the time ! Now if you answer this one for me my evening will be complete! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=63051

I have been trying to understand a little more about the cold start advance facility on the Bosch VE pumps which the owners manual of my 300TDI waxes lyrical about. A cold start advance unit advances the injection timing to further assist starting. Idle quality is improved by the high idle setting. The cold start advance unit is connected to the engine cooling system via hoses. It contains a temperature sensitive element which is retracted when cold and pulls the advance lever, via cable, towards the rear of the pump against spring pressure. As coolant temperature rises, the cold start element expands releasing tension on the cable and allowing spring pressure to move the advance lever forwards. Have located this as a useful reference http://www.scribd.com/doc/19099617/Bosch-Ve-Pumps But there does not seem to be any info on this or indeed other popular Defender forums about how you can tell its working or if its not how to make it work - can anyone help me out... Cheers

Western - you Sir are a star.

So treat me like an idiot - which I know will not be difficult Why is it necessary to have fuel lift pump when the truck already has a fuel pump ? And how can you tell if you have a dodgey lift pump ?

Would be grateful for the following 3 part numbers for a 90 300 TDi 97 1) Bulkhead pull-bonnet gommet 2) Battery box battery lead grommet the ones that the battery cables pass through. 3) Starter relay

Ok in parallel then!!