cypermethrin

perhaps worth removing the front left & right brake guards first - it may be that with the prop on and the forces being transferred that they are resonating - which with the prop off does not happen ?

We have had the truck for nearly 2 years and its always been a "feature" ! How can i check if it is the front UJs at fault apart frome removinthe the whole prop?

My resonation is the same as does it 5th, 4th, 3rd, & 2nd if you get the revs right Today I am mostly thinking the front brake's guard that's rattling Tomorrow I may be thinking it is the UJs ... thanks for all the suggestions - keep them coming !

Thanks TheRecklessEngineer Nice video ! My resonation is very similar - did you actually chnage the front prop/UJ and this had no affect ?

OK treat me like an idiot ...... What s the hypothesis being tested with this approach ?? Its not the injector pipes I did find the steering rod going into the steering box was not fully tightened and had slight rattle n movement. Tightened it all up - no affect.

Thanks for the suggestions I have checked the front brake guard and ts not rattling or touching anything. Used a screwdriver to increase the distance etc ... No affect Its definately not a loose floor plate.... Noise seems to be coming from in front and lower to floor plate Just been out again and ts very odd..... I can get it to resonate constantly but the noise dissappears when the clutch is dipped.... And reappears when its re-engaged Now to check the injector pipes..... Keep the suggestions coming

Ok this is driving me nuts..... I hope one of the wise will be able to help Ever since we have owned the 300tdi it has had a metallic resonating noise in every gear ( but first) at between 27 and 32 mph. It is definately coming from just in front of the drivers foot well or just below it (or certainly sound like it as you can feel the resonating in the footwell floor) Once above a certain rev levels its gone ... But returns when it drops back These are the things i have done and the resonating continues Removed bonnet Removed air box and bracket Packed all chequer plate Wrapped all brake lines Checked all radaitor hoses and air hoses Checked wing mountings Removed bonnet stay Checked the wiring llom is not wrattling inside the chassis member Removed the multiple J nuts from the bottom of the A pillar! Removed the heat protector from the engine block Tightened the alternator shrouding Crawled for hours underneith trying to find the wretched thing but to no avail. If the noise was coming from the passenger side I would suspect the exhaust down pipe ... But its not wrattling at all The noise is metallic and quite loud it can be heard outside the car when passing folk on the pavement Any clues much appreciated Ps ... Just noticed i cant spell resonation either!!

Thanks chaps....

That will be the one! Ta

So I had the bright idea of changing the coolant on my 300tdi as a could not be sure that the local place that did the new water pump did not use the OAT stuff. Anyway i removed the bottom hose from the radiator and the two bleed screw on the thermostat and radiator and the cap from the reservoir and flushed them all out with a hose pipe for a good long while. refilling the radiator and flushing repeatdly etc. I know that the 300 tdi is supposedly a capacity of 11 litres in the 300 tdi - so why did the 5 litre of coolant go in no problem and then i only managed to get in a further 1.5 litres of water...... I followed the usual procedure of carefully fillinf thro expansion tank until radiator full and replaced screw, then the thermostat until full and add screw and then run until warm and top up. Ran until upto temp with heater matrix on and all levels OK So where is the other 4 litres hiding ?? In the heater matrix???

I have a meck lock fitted to ours... In my view its worth the 420 quid to ensure it stays where it should to all but the most determined with a hilift

Marginal thread hijack..... noticed on my 300TDI the otherday that vaccum line from the EGR modulator valve to the EGR valve was completely missing is clearly its been doing b*gg*r all for 2 years ! Is the concensus that EGR blanking is the way to go ?

Thanks chaps .... Clearly i should worry about the long list of other stuff and not this!

Movement side to side. Not in and out Very slight movement just felt....my initial guess of 2mm maybe inaccurate.......no leaks of anything

Again my lack of knowledge ...... So removed air duct trunking from the air filter to the turbo unit. Just inside the mabifold is what i thought was the turbo unit with vanes Clearly from your comments its not ... But what is it?

While having the latest faff wrt my start motor - and while the air hose was not connected up to the turbo inlet - I noticed the there was a small amount (approx 2 mm) "play" in the mounting of the turbo vanes. Once again I am no expert in the tolerances of turbos - or whether any movement is acceptable... the turbo spins and sounds and pulls fine.... over to the wise crowd. Thanks Tim

Thanks Les So in theory there is no reason why, if the solenoid was not connected to the starter motor, that the solenoid would not engage the dog because as you say it does 2 things almost simultaneously and they are not dependent on each other ? BTW - looks as though I won't be needing your Disco 300TDi engine !

Update : engine can be turned over by hand without any problem; all earths checked, ignition etc all fine. New starter motor fitted, turned over, fired and started first time on the button ! So - I got to thinking as to why the orginal starter burnt through. Should the solenoid engage and disengage independently of the connection betweent the solenoid and the starter. My small brain tells me a solenoid is only a mechnaical switch and once energised it 1/ trows the dolly out to engage with the flywheel and 2/ completes the circuit to start the starter motor. What I found on the bench test was that it would only do 1/ and 2/ if the braided connection between starter and solenoid was made. And without this connection the dolly did not move at all. Is this how it should operate ?

We made the fly wheel move by rocking so its not siezed solid. Surely there is enough inertia from the starter motor to crank.... Oh well fingers crossed its nit the worst case scenario

I took the orginal starter to piece tonight.... Its about a year old Apart from the burning thro of the braided connector between the solenoid and starter it look fine. solenoid plunger nice and clean. No welding of connectors everything freely moving. Came across this thread below which describes a Merc drive going thro 3 starter in 5 days..... Turned out to be water getting into engine through via coolant system. Basically water was stopping the engine turning over. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/110548-starter-motor-keeps-burning-out.html I really hope this is not whats going on with mine....... I know i have a small water lead via the P gasket but nothing major. No mayo in the oil cap etc But i have an uneasy feeling that this might be it...... Although it does not account for the slow cranking after the ket was removed Am i worrying unecessarily?

I agree - but I am struggling to know what to do next ...... the thing I do know is the 2nd new starter motor did short out as the constant live feed to the solenoid fowled against the outer casing of the solenoid where there was a metal stud - and it blew the contact. So that one is down to me. But why the orginal and first starter burnt out and continued to crank after removing the key )leaning tpo it burning out the brading feed bwetween the solenoid and the starter) remains a mystery

Well....... Its definately not the battery as it starts my mates 90 Also checked the ignition switch and relay .... The exciter wire to the solenoid gets a consistent 12v when key is turned to crank position The fly wheel is freely rotating when rocking the truck in gear Which leaves me at a loss as to why the problem arose...... Could it have been the -10 C freezing the starter solenoid in the energized position? Could it be the works or demons ? So the plan is to get another new start motor tomorrow and try again...... And if it continues to crank without the key in the ignition the plan to to whip out the starter relay A complete weekend lost.....

The ignition lights and glow plugs all still work As do the other electrical stuff like lights, indicators wipers etc all ok So apart from toasting the starter motor and solenoid the rest looks to be ok Will hopefully be able to test the battery in mates 90 today..... To check its not boiled So the plan is to get another new starter, new ignition switch to be on the safe side and try again Am i missing somethimg?

The only thing that makes sense to me is that altough starting fine yesterday afternoon - the PAS pump bearing noise I was going to fix this morning turned out to be the alternator bearings and it hasnt been charging the battery. This may explain the weak cranking - but not the continuation of the cranking once the key had ben removed

Would a faulty relay starter be the cause ?