cypermethrin

Hi Les, thats what i thought but the ignition barrel is also about 1 yr old.

This mormomg i was all ready to change the PAS and water pump on my 300tdi. But like everything it was not as simple as that. Turned the key starter motor threw solenoid, turned over but no fire. took key out and the starter eas still tring to turn the engine. Ended with burning smell from battery. The starter motor was shot the braided feed from the solenoid to the starter had burnt through. So off I went 30 mile round trip to get a new one. Fitted it, reconnected battery fizz and a bang it was toast too without even turning a key. I think ir mst have shorted out on the hoysing.... New unit defiantely dead Result a very cold and now thououghly disgruntled LR owner. With no way of fixing it til Monday... The old starter was about a year old and a Velco unit. It certainly took a big load to burn through the braided coonector betw the solenoud and starter..... What do yiu think was the cause of all this ?

So took the belt off and found a little play in both the PAS pump and water pump. The alternator also had quite some play in it too! But its clear from feeling the inlet and outlets to the PAS that its the main culprit of the rattling. I have been losing a little collant too and it looks as the the P gasket is to blame So new PAS and water pump on order........ Thanks Les

Thanks Les - job for this afternoon. will report back. thanks.

HI Les Thanks for your kind reply. This is definately not the groaning/moaning noise that happens at full lock. The noise happens only after about half a turn on the wheel - in either direction. You can actaully make it be heard constantly my moving the sateering wheel to a "sweet" spot where the noise can be heard constantly. It sound like a physical knocking/banging soundt - about two "beats" every second. Moving the wheel back to centre and the noise stops. PAS reservoir is still full and no obvious leakes. Could it be the serpentine belt slipping - or do I have a PAS pump on the way out ?

My 300tdi has developed what i think is a noisey power steering pump When vehicle is stationary and applying some lock hear repeated knocking sound. happens on both left and right hand while stationary My presumption is that this is the power steering pump. its reservoir is full. nothing obvious to look at. My knowledge of how power sterering pumps work is zero. Would appreciate some wise counsel on dianosis, fix or otherwise ! As always thanks Tim

Rest assured I did not pay that - I was born at night : but not last night ! They have an ebay shop and you can get them for half that....... and tbh they have also gone up 50 quid since I bought them too....

Thanks James - that's very insightful. I am fitting a set of these - http://ox4x4.com/landrover-stainless-steel-e-shop/ So not quite sure which type I would need to fit between the hinge and pillar ?

Thats great - thanks. I purchased these.....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330344105950?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 which are Land Rover Part Numbers : BDC710040 and MWC1898 So I presume I pack the hinge to door with extra BDC710040 - as the MWC1898 is the gasket to which you refer ?

So my drivers door fits at the bottom and is about 5 mm proud of the tub at the door handle. This does'nt actaully bother me too much - but the consequence is the fitting of the door seal to the top of the door frame is now so weak that water is ingressing and coming down the inside of the door and puddling the foot well. I have got some new shims and a weekend of wanting to avoid Christmas shopping - so...... is the etiquette just to use additional shims between the hinge and the bulkhead pillar - or can you use additional shim between the hinge and the drivers door. My small brain says that it the bottom of the door fits OK currently and the top is out I need to add additional shims between the door and the hinge and not between the bulkhead pillar and the hinge. Make sense ? Thanks

OK so you peek in thro' the wading hole and look for the gap which marks TDC of piston 1 I understand there are two such holes in the flywheel (one small and one 3x ish bigger) - how do you know you have the right one ?

I need to replace the gasket in my 300TDi brake servo vacuum pump. Step 1 of this according to the 300TDi "Engine Overhaul manual" says " Ensure that number 1 piston is at TDC" then unbolt etc etc Given that I only want to chnage the gasket and not take the head off - how can I do this ?? Or do it not need to ! Thanks

we have centre seat with headrest in our 90 for out 8 y.o son - but it has a four point harness to ensure he's not impailed on the gearstick !

There you go making it sound so easy ! Thanks Boro will give it a whirl...

Thanks guys Is it really possible to loosen the sump plug and let a little oil out ?? When I have done this on other cars it usually all or nothing..... Or am I being inept ?

Thanks for the advice Took a closer look today and its definitely oil and not fuel that's weeping I also notched the oil level is about 1.5 cm above the max dip stick level. This is down to the numptie garage which I will not be frequenting again. Prior to the oil change it was not leaking noticeably on the driveway Is it possible that this over filling has enabled the oil level in the block to actually exceed the level of the fuel lift pump and hence it's become more visible ? Also noticed the vacuum pump located adjacent to the fuel lift pump was weepin Could the over filling be responsible for both weeps or are the levels nowhere near the engine blobk hole and cam etc ?.

Noticed that the fuel lift pump on my 90 300 tdi is weeping from the bottom of the unit between block / gasket / block. I have tightened up the two 10 mm securing bolts but don't want to shear them. Can anyone advise the nm torque or similar which I should be aiming for ? Thanks

Thanks chaps have booked it in for a replacement

I had a new brake vacuum pump installed on my 300TDi about 6 months ago – brakes now work really well. But I noticed that it has started to weep oil – not from where the body of the pump meets the block - but from one of the round holes at the back of the pump The below link should show you a photo of where I mean Should it be doing this ? If not how can I rectify ? Thanks to all

I'm no expert on seating legalities in the cargo space of 90's........ Basically our '97 Defender has forward facing 2 seated bench seat with lap belts. These tilt up towards bulkhead when not in use Looks like this http://www.berkshirelandrover.com/customrebuild_detail.php?record_id=101165&images2Page=10&image_id=1518 Coming up for MoT will these be Ok?? Pretty sure it was MoTed last yr without this being installed just before we took ownership. will it get pinged?

I had the clutch master and slave cylinders replaced about 10 months ago on my '97 300Tdi Master cylinder has developed a "popping" sound on engagement - doesn't seem to be leaking or losing fluid. Is this another Defender "feature" that I should just live with - or is it the start of it going wrong big-style ? Counsel and thoughts appreciated as ever

What do you recon to these as a cheaper alternative http://www.ox4x4.co.uk/e-shop/ They put them on ebay too and I've picked some up for significantly less

Thanks western for proving me wrong once again!!

Found it ! ASR1459

As above to fit Defender post-98 must be metric M8 Thanks