smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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On 2/14/2022 at 7:41 AM, Snagger said:
😆😆😆 It does look a bit like that! Those are just the intake stator vanes and the front bearing supports. The compressor is in that big aluminium housing that looks like a flywheel housing - this has a centrifugal flow compressor, much like a turbo charger. I don’t think that mesh is going to do much if the engine runs - it stands a good chance of collapsing and being ingested. That won’t go well…. Still, it might be made out of decent grade materials and tolerate the airflow. It might just be a FOD guard for when the engine isn’t in use, removed for running.
This reminds me of a guy I used to work with ........
When he did his National Service with the RAF in the early 1950s, they had F86 Sabre fighters on the airfield. They had a full frontal air intake, and if the engine was run up while on the ground, there had to be a cage installed over it, to prevent large FOD damage. One day, a passing ground crew member passed too close (about six feet, he said) just as the throttle was opened and he was dragged against it and held there, until one of the other guys waved at the mechanic to shut it down. he was terrified and passed out.
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Not on a LR, but got a Unimog here with it fitted. Electric column is off a BMW but I cant remember what model.
Corsa C or Combo C column is what you want. Cheap and easy to wire up, but make sure you get the wiring plugs and some wires to extend. This is what is used on a lot of kit cars.
However, I don't know whether your existing steering wheel could be made to fit. A minor problem though
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2 hours ago, Phill S said:
Scrap man coming tomorrow morning to take it away...
Thats a shame, could have used the front half for mocking up a conversion. Never mind. Realistically too far away unfortunately
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What are you going to do with the chassis ?
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Its quite interesting because my 89 pick up had aluminium gutters from the factory.
Apart from a few details, I would guess your earlier roof would bolt straight on.
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Just to add to what Simonb said
21TR is the regulator type
37707A is the Lucas part number
It would have been sold as Lucas or Magnet Marelli
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Just now, chris2010 said:
thanks buddy, how do the rear sensors mount to the rear stubs ? bolted on a bracket or just pushed through, stubs are only £25 so not all bad, the reluctor rings seem very expensive unless i can find used ones.
AsI said, I cant see much. I can feel a rubber grommet type thing, but no bracket. Not to say there isnt one
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I have got a pair of axles here, and I have just been out to look. Fronts are easy, but as Filip says, your existing CV joints may, or may not, have the reluctor ring.
Rear looks fairly straightforward if the holes are there, if not, just a case of drilling in the right place. Might be easier just to get some replacement stubs ?
I will photograph it if you wish, but you really cant see much without dismantling. You dont state your location, but you are more than welcome to come and have a look.
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It will put the 300Tdi engine further back to where the 200Tdi sat (also the earlier 4cyl petrol and diesel engines)
Engine sat between the footwells. However, the 300 Tdi had a different manifold/turbo setup than the Defender spec 200Tdi, and I have never fitted a 300 Tdi to a Defender in the earlier rearward position, so I dont know if the Turbo clears the footwells ?
300 into a series is a common conversion, so I guess it must fit ? Someone on here should know for sure.
I am not familiar with the TGV engine, so cannot comment on that.
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Dust used to be a problem with old "traditional component" electronics, even indoors. It would absorb a bit of moisture from the air, and cause semi shorting.
Condensation on a clean board will do the same. I remember our Radio Rentals repair man telling me all about this years ago, when he had come to look at our set. Again. Do TV repair men even exist now ?
Might be a component on its way out, but I would try lacquering the boards. Might help ?
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Floor is ribbed, so can you get the replacement first, then trim the existing floor to be an inch smaller than the replacement all round, then use foam sealing tape and Chimney nuts and button head machine screws to fix.
Will the novelty of maintenance wear off ?
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This has gone nowhere in eight years, its an early 90 V8 SW but briefly,
Make up my b****y mind with engine to use for the best, Rover V8, Lexus 1UZ, or BMW M57 diesel. I have all of them, but unable to decide.
And all that this entails !
Gearbox, change to auto, but of course, it depends on the engine.
And all that this entails !
Repair or change the bulkhead. Its not bad, but I do have a late Puma one, which will need modifying as it has NO lovely vent flaps.
And all that this entails !
Modify and change the roof and windscreen for the series 3 type. Why ? Because I like the look !
And all that this entails !
Change the doors for a set of early County ones with alloy tops and sliding windows.
At least this is nice easy job !
Repair or replace the chassis. Again its not bad, but you know how this can be a can of worms !
Replace most of the braking system.
Anything else that crops up, you all know about mission creep...........
OR, alternatively, sell it and concentrate on my Rover P5B coupe instead, OR sell that as well, and concentrate on the Unimog 406 !
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Try running it through the comparison websites for a start.
If you have another car or van as a daily driver, this normally reduces your premium.
It all depends how old you are, and your driving record.
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Is the centre brake light on the spare wheel also not working ? If not, I would look at the switch on the brake pedal
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Looks to me like that Fiat has got chains on the front ?
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I could oblige you Dave, but I dont like the stainless air intake, and as I know you would be disappointed with that too, Im afraid I couldnt saddle you with it. Sorry.
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Why are you lot taking the p*** out of my vehicle ? Its very hurtful you know, and I am most upset !
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Definitely wheel/hub/brake related, doesnt sound quite like the tick tick tick or a stone in the tread. Sounds softer ? I would take the wheels off and carefully check for nails or screws.
Look at the calipers all over to check there is no gravel stuck anywhere.
Poorly applied Limestone paint on the wheels peeling off and flicking some part of the bodywork ?
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3 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
WHat were you driving?
I took my little van because of the oil that might have leaked out. I wish I had taken my car as apparently they are exempt (for the moment) I had no idea a clean air zone existed there. I foolishly thought it only applied to larger cities, and it didnt even cross my mind to check. I will now though, if I am going anywhere unfamiliar.
This is the problem with it though, if you are driving across the country you may pass though unfamiliar places unknowingly, and I think it unfair if a trunk road passes through a clean air zone.
I also found the signage at Bath appalling, the signs were there, as I saw afterwards, but were not really eye catching, blending into the background for the most part. We know what traffic signs look like, and you do notice them, but these could have been Estate Agents signs or summat, not what you would normally notice.
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42 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
Yep mine's a Nige edition, so not likely the culprit but always a possibility.
I think the first step is to re-run my compression test, I might have had the throttle cable set to slightly open as it helps with the idle while it warms up, I'm hoping that's the cause of the low compression, if it isn't then at least I know there is a bigger mechanical issue that I need to sort before moving on.
As I lapped the valves and fitted new springs when the heads were off, I wouldn't be surprised if that's an issue. I did so a leak test on them before refitting but given it was the first time I've ever done anything like it, it's highly likely I messed something up.
There isnt anything that has been made, ever, that cannot be faulty, in the same way that everything is reliable, until it breaks down or wears out. I would take up Fridge on his offer to lend one, just to try, but no doubt the map will be different and possibly unsuitable.
Compression test MUST be run on wide open throttle to work. However, I have always taken the plenum chamber top off the Efi ones, as I found it easier, but its not important. DO make sure the fuelling and ignition is disabled.
If you have leak tested the valves, they should be OK. I check mine by installing the valves in the head, then tipping the head on edge, then pouring a small amount of petrol or thinners into the upturned ports, then observe the valve heads. If they are dry, then great, but sometimes you will get a slight dampness, which is acceptable to me, but any more than that needs redoing.
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I haven't enjoyed mine for years, as its sat on the drive with no engine and wheels off for years, too many other things to do !
I do keep thinking of selling it, as I would easily double (or better) my money, but the money has been spent and gone, so it doesnt matter, and I know I would not be able to afford another one. I dont NEED the money, so it can stay where it is. If it becomes worthless, I have only lost the £1200 I bought it for ten years ago.
Like has been said, I am not sure that these asking prices are acheived, unless the vehicle is almost perfect, or a bespoke thing, but generally they are up, and continuing that way, for now. But who knows what the future will bring ? Remember the classic car price collapse in the late Nineties.
I collected a gearbox from a member here in Bath. Unbeknown to me, they have a clean air zone on the A36, which you have to use if you are just passing through the town, so I got collared and was very dischuffed.
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3 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
I've just run it up to temperature and done a compression test on the front 4 cylinders (I can't get to the rear ones while hot as there isn't enough room for hands). I'm not happy with it - 120 is about the max and 110 is the low, on an engine with brand new rings I am slightly alarmed by this.
I would be alarmed by this too, BUT did you have the throttle flap wide open ? Someone holding the pedal down, or propped open ? A common mistake, especially if you have got the hump, or are in a hurry! Of course, I have never done this
I wanted to check the basics first, just to make sure the engine is mechanically OK before looking at the Fuel and ignition. I did wonder about the ECU being faulty somehow ? As I understand it, they are "home made" of sorts, so plenty of scope for faults like a stray tail of solder or dry joint somewhere. I dont suppose anyone has a test rig ?
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You really are having no fun with this at all. Dont be concerned about running ideas across the forum, as I, and probably most of us know how dispiriting this type of thing can be.
How does the engine feel when its running with everything connected ? Does it feel smooth or a bit lumpy ?
By what you say about pulling HT leads on left or right bank, it tells me that the passenger side bank is not pulling its weight for whatever reason. When you pull any one V8 lead, it is not really noticeable like it would be on a four cylinder.
All the cylinders are firing, or you would not have more or less equal temps on the exhausts. I cannot help with the Megasquirt, as I know F all about electronics, but is it batchfire on alternate banks ? Possible that one bank is not getting quite as much fuel as the other, despite what the computer says ?
My next move would be to compression test it, both hot and cold, and carefully note, and write down the pressures, just to confirm the valve train is working properly.
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On 1/11/2022 at 6:41 PM, Tobias said:
brake pedal is mounted to the bracket ounting the vacuum servo and master cylinder on the other side of the bulkhead/firewall. It should be possible to make a spacer to shift the whole brake assembly further intot he engine bay. If there is space there on a (i presume) RHD I do not know.
Worth having a good look on the engine bay side of things.
T
Tobias has a good idea there, you could effectively slide the whole assembly down the bulkhead, which will lower the pedal towards the floor and pushing it farther away, so not altering anything except the big slot in the bulkhead and the six mounting bolts. Have to make sure there is still enough pedal travel though.
Could put a bracing plate at the top of the footwell too if it works.
I find that most larger vehicles have this feature, having to lift you foot off the floor to brake
How to dismantle a 1997 V8 Disco
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Thanks for the offer Stephen, but I am in Kent, so yes its even father away, as with most things I want, that always seem to be at the other end of the country !