smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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On 4/23/2022 at 12:47 AM, Steve King said:
This was also a problem on the ADO16: the Austin/Morris, Wolseley, Riley, VDP, MG, Old Uncle Tom Cobley and all 1100 and 1300 range of cars! Lovely cars to drive and quite advanced when they were introduced! However designed in rust points, poor steel and poor build quality (plus poor repairs) all played their part in many thousands of these going to the scrappy!
I passed my test in an Austin 1300 GT, it is still on the road, but sadly not under my ownership and they are quite rare nowadays!
I do have a MK1 Riley Kestrel version, that is nearly restored.
Riley Kestrel, lovely. I really like the tan and taupe colour scheme too ! I remember finding these in the scrapyards in the late Seventies and robbing them of the Holy Grail for my Minis. A rev counter ! Plus twin carbs.
I had a '66 MG 1100 for a time too reg 954D. Wish I could have kept it AND the reg number. Not an option back then sadly.
Also had a '67 Austin 1100 that a work colleagues father had bought new, and had sat in his mothers garage for 15 years after he died suddenly. Still had the plastic factory seat covers on it. He wanted it gone for nothing, so I recommissioned it . It started first time ! It was not at all rusty. I really loved it, the ride was so comfortable, and you can see why it was the UKs best selling car at the time. It also did a heady 85 mph and 40mpg if you were careful. I still have all the original sales order, receipts and green log book for it.
Lent it to my friends daughter who could not afford to buy a first car, but it ended up on its roof in a ditch, and the recovery guys destroyed it by dragging it out via the windscreen pillars. I was "somewhat upset" about that.
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3 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
If the video showed a small to medium size electric powered family saloon passing what appear to be elderly cyclists on a narrow country lane that had a damp surface at the same distance and speed would there still be accusations of hidden agendas and potential footage fiddling I wonder.
When I originally viewed video of the incident about a month ? ago, I observed that the Defender slowed down considerably as it approached, lead cyclist decided to stop, and second cyclist ran into the back of him and fell off. My only thought was "stupid woman". There was nothing "remarkable" about the footage at all to make me think otherwise, knowing full well how 4x4s are now vilified by the media in general. To me, it was more like something you would see on "You've been framed" or similar.
I do remember that I wondered whether whoever wrote the editorial had actually watched it, and knew what "overtaking" was. I also thought what a massive miscarriage it was.
When I watched the video that had been linked on this thread, it was so clearly different, hence my comment.
Also, with the example you give, I have to say that IMO I doubt if it would have even made the news.
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Thats an interesting version of the video, it is not the same that was doing the rounds a while ago. It has been speeded up quite a lot. The version I saw had him slowing down to almost walking speed.
As far as I am concerned, there is an agenda here.
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7 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Wow, look at this text in the article :
He didn’t overtake …
If its the same one I saw a month or so ago, thats what the Police statement said, but he was coming in the opposite direction in the video.
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I have got no time for cyclists. None at all. Too many incidents of rank stupidity and arrogance going on here.
Complete disregard for any one elses safety, and their own safety is legally someone elses responsibilty.
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Got them here in Kent. @ £120
I picked one up and put it in the trolley and walked around doing the rest of the shopping. I put it back in the end. Probably regret it, but I question if I really need something else that will be seldom used and taking up space.
As with most of these things, it is never quite big enough. They do a bigger one (40 amp) which will cut 12mm, which is more like it for when you need it.
Most of my stuff is 3mm, but sometimes 4, 5, and 6mm, and doable with an angle grinder.
Sigh
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As long as there are no earths bypassing the switch, it will be fine. I can see no reason why you could not fit it to the negative lead either, again, as long as it is not bypassed somehow.
If it is for security though, these are so easily to get around unless it is installed in a secured, or inaccessible space.
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Normally the rod seal is the first to go, usually because the wiper seal is worn. The piston seals will not cause any external leakage.
What I do with mine is leave the cylinder on the machine to loosen the gland as I do not find vices or clamps hold the cylinder body very well, then remove the body pin and slide the cylinder off of the piston. Then you can undo the piston nut with the rod still attached. Save a lot of backache this way, as you will not be lifting the complete cylinder.
You will get a fair bit of oil spill, so be prepared for this.
Make sure the chrome rod is well padded and not allowed to hit anything, and never, ever, grip the rod with stilsons
Make sure you note how it all fits together.
Its actually very easy, and they are self bleeding
You can buy seals from a specialist for a lot less money once you have the sizes ! All my Yanmar cylinders use the same seals, so I always keep a set in hand.
I found all mine started to go in fairly quick succession, so I guess it was an age thing ? I always park the machine up with the piston rods retracted into the body to protect them.
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1 minute ago, L19MUD said:
Looks like the master. I freed off the nuts either side and the pedal pivots ok. The union at the master is very well seized though and at risk of rounding off. Given it some plus gas tonight but expect I will need to cut the pipe to remove the master and change it.
Annoying as the steel pipe is still good
Try a blow lamp on the master cylinder, but not on the pipe union ? Nothing to lose and you might just save the steel pipe and union
Ours is a Turbo D too, smoked a LOT. Never looked at it, but I suspect the pistons are cracked.
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Vehicle looks like the one we have in the field, except its blue. That hasnt moved for ten years plus either, and the chassis is very well gone.
I would also expect the clutch disc to be stuck to the flywheel after all that time, but you might be lucky.
As said, I would go for the master cylinder. If it has a ally cap, it will probably need some grips
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58 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
Don't powder coat. Poor powder coat comes off in sheets and the only way to know it's poor powder coating is when it comes off in sheets.
Mike
It also conceals creeping rust until its too late. I wouldnt powdercoat ANYTHING, except maybe alloy wheels, but even that can be problematic
Galvanise, then Mordant, etch prime and the paint of your choice.
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58 minutes ago, defender dinky said:
Hate it when people cover things up like that, better to cut it all out better job satisfaction,dd
Yes, but back then, with youthful enthusiasm and no tools, no experience, no acquired skills, and no spare money, that's what you did. That's what everyone did, even people of our age.
There were no MIG welders available back then, and any welding gear was mortgage money. Anyone remember the Kel Arc attachment for stick welders ?
Hilarious really, now I look back. No one would bother nowadays ( I hope) spending hours carefully sculpting filler and fibreglass to disguise this sort of rust, but the reality back then was that you just couldnt afford to get the job done properly, AND it was always a can of worms ! My first Mini was only six years old and it was like this, but then all cars rusted badly back then.
Also remember using concrete in the footwells of my mates Mk1 Escort ! That was a masterpiece of sculpture too, barely distinguishable from original 🤣 AND it passed the MOT !
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Mk 1 with that grille ?
I had three in the late Seventies, including a 1071S pickup, with 12 inch Dunlop alloys and Austin 1100 front brakes, which couldnt be done apparently !
Happy days, great memories. Got paid and straight to the Motor Accessory shop, to see what "improvements" could be done next ! But boy, did they rust ! Pop rivets, glass fibre, filler and loads of underseal !
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And a LOT of Limestone paint !
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I have used these Phillips/Milner adaptor plates in the past with the thicker flywheel with no issues except that the flywheel MUST be redrilled to accept a 9 1/2 inch clutch, you CANNOT fit the 10 1/2 V8 clutch, as these kits were originally for series models. Will fit an LT77 though.
You have to cut a piece off off the end of the crankshaft where the spigot bush originally went. IIRC 6mm ?
I assume that flywheel is bolted direct to the crankshaft without any sort of spacer or has the crank already been cut ? Looks like it has been ?
You have the spigot bush adaptor flange that goes with the kit ? It bolts over the flywheel. Without it, the kit is useless as there is no support for the gearbox input shaft.
IF you use the thinner car type flywheel, you would need to do something with the release arm pivot and pushrod for it to work.
Sorry, memory a bit sketchy now, as its got to be 30 years ago.
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7 hours ago, uninformed said:
As you know there is little support outside a few specialists for LR here and a one off custom set might be more expensive and require more problem solving. Ill give them a look though. Im guessing your upgrade was bolt on from the same car but different version?
Id like to hope these big dollar brake kits have been developed with the factory booster and MC. but who knows, and why Im asking for feedback and information on them.
Yes, standard stuff from the most powerful model, but with Greenstuff uprated pads and drilled and grooved discs front and rear. This model had bigger diameter rims with lower profile tyres, which I don't like, and I was told they couldnt be used with the rims I have, but they fit, just. However, to fit new pads, I have to shave 1.5mm them, or the calipers foul the rims. Been on for nine years now.
I must admit that I like my brake upgrades to be low cost, going through catalogues for standard parts that can be utilised.
My ex bosses son is into BMWs, and he has fitted several sets of six pot calipers and huge discs, but I do not recall any changes being made to the MC or servo (booster) on any of them. I think they are mainly to combat brake fade.
If all else fails, there is always Hydraboost !
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8 hours ago, defender dinky said:
Hi all, first of all, if this is in wrong place or not allowed please feel free to delete, I have resently cleaned an old mechanics garage out, who passed away, I have two classic mini's, one has number plate and chassis number sorted, the other has only the chassis number on a bare shell, is there anyway I can get the reg number from this chassis number, everywhere I try ask for vin number, which only started in 1981, I know this shell is in between 1969/74 which I can tell from the chassis number, dd
That Mini is mine, I remember the guy promised it to me !
Try Gaydon Motor Museum near Birimingham, they do the heritage certificates and have all the build records, so they may be able to help, once they know its ligit !
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10 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
Also the V8 won’t actually rev higher than a diesel with the same gears. But it will still have a wider rpm range.
I am aware of that, but I meant compared to other vehicles I have. For instance, my Trafic van is doing 1900 rpm at 70mph, and my Astra does 2250rpm at 70mph.
I guess its phycological. When I drive small engine petrol cars (1.3, 1.6 ish) that are doing 3500 rpm plus at the same speed it feels so wrong to me, and when I think of a big (in comparison) V8 doing similar rpms, it really bothers me, thinking about all those pistons and guzzling fuel ! Cant help it, I find myself keep looking at the tachometer all the time !
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7 hours ago, uninformed said:
I wonder if you are referring to the Bendix Ultimate 4wd brake upgrade kits, which they only cover modern popular vehicles here (not LRs). And even then they were only rotors, pads and fluid.
Have you tried Hoppers Stoppers in Melbourne ? I know they do custom stuff, but might be able to help.
I fitted Turbo coupe model brakes to my Vauxhall (Holden) Astra diesel, because I did a lot of towing, and it really does stop well, so much better than before, with no lock up in normal conditions. It does have ABS though.
I like big brakes !
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Tyre size will have a bearing on it, its very easy to undergear it and leave the engine revving too high.
Being used to diesels, I always think any petrol vehicle I drive needs an extra couple of gears !
Have a play with this along with the Ashcroft ratio calculator.
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AFAIK the LT85 and 95 were only fitted to the V8 engine, so the bolt pattern will be the same.
I cannot remember about the overall length though.
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No idea, but does it have a day/night setting ? Brighter in the day, darker at night.
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Good luck guys, Hope it all goes well !
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Excellent job. Can you do mine ?
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Land Rover vs cyclists
in International Forum
Posted
Sorry to disappoint, but I will NOT be surrendering my licence anytime soon.
Attitudes like mine ? Sorry, but I am probably one of the most considerate motorists you may encounter, and despite what I might think of them, I do NOT put cyclists in danger.
It is a shame however, that the large majority of the "work hard, play hard" Lance Armstrong wannabees appear to have no consideration or the "respect" you speak of, toward pedestrians and animals, along with most other less vulnerable road users. They bring the "animosity, aggressive behaviour and injury" upon themselves mostly, because that is exactly the mindset they have.
There are also too many of your so called c-sockets riding cycles off road too, who have absolutely no respect or consideration for walkers, animals, or property either. They generally have a helmet cam, Do you have a helmet cam by any chance ?