smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I agree that a winch is a handy thing to have, but my only objection to them is that one has to get out of the vehicle, probably end up a bit sweaty and dirty, then have to get back in and get mud all over the Axminster ! So tedious, dont you think ?
Now if one had a man in a following vehicle to get out and do it for me, it would be fine, what what ?
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I think your main problem is that you now have it in your head that you "need" to spend some money and do something. Now that you have that itch, you will be absolutely NOT satisfied until you have ! You are trying to justify it to yourself by asking the question.
Whether you NEED these things is debateable, but as Snagger has said, its just a hobby, and the standard vehicle will get you where you want to go (within reason) But I suppose it it nice to have a bit more peace of mind.
I won't go into the obvious about avoiding trouble where possible when travelling, as you obviously know this. If you need bragging rights, you can make it up !
If you can afford these things then go for it, as long as nothing else is suffering financially. For me, I would rather spend money on something shiny (or grubby) and still have something to show for it months later, which you do NOT get with beach holidays, nights at the pub, meals out etc etc.
You have already proved that the standard vehicle is fine, but if I were you, I would rebuild and service what you have, and install a four pin front diff centre.
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Brother in Laws mate had same problem with a 200 Tdi 90 chassis from them. The mounts were in the right place, but were set slightly further apart. ISTR that the actual mount brackets were a bit smaller, and this had the effect of dropping the engine down. It doesnt take much. Solved by making some packers out of 8mm plate.
300 mounts are flatter (more horizontal) though, so this fault wouldnt have quite the same effect.
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As said, compressor type do not work well unless its warm, at least 18 degrees C. Will not work outside at this time of year.
I had a desiccant type which work better at low temperature, but it caught alight in our cabin and nearly burnt it down. Would NOT have another, although to be fair, it probably ingested a lot of dust.
Tried the beanbag things years ago, but you would need a lot of them and keep drying them out, and its a right fag.
What about one of those tubular greenhouse heaters. SWMBO puts one in her Jimny when frost is forecast. Jimny isnt damp, but it might help.
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22 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:
These guys have great prices and the shopping basket stays there for ever.
They don't have a great rep here. Stuff missing or substituted, and if anything goes wrong, trying to return or replace, or even getting a refund is almost impossible.
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That second photo, the 061 model, could that be a fracture in the casting, between the makers plate and the cable bracket ?
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If your location is correct, the weather is very unkind to anything metal (and wood) so as said, probably something sticking or blocked because of corrosion, or rubber bits perishing.
Even the engine valves need checking.
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3 hours ago, reb78 said:
ETA - All I need is the right size circuits and breakers adding for the bits I want to run from the 3-phase distribution board in the shed. The conduit etc is all there. I think I may just do it myself TBH.
Thats exactly what I would do. Didnt want to suggest it on here though. Just be careful.
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SteveG I would agree with Dave88sw, was originally a truck cab. Rear tub would not have had welded on cleats by this time. My original 1986 90SW does have them, even though it has always been a Station Wagon
The rear linings look as though they are rigid plastic ? Not at all sure about this, but did they change them from the earlier flock type stuff on card/hardboard ?
Is this a test ?
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1 hour ago, reb78 said:
Yep. Luckily have 3 phase coming in at the house and goes off to the worksheds from there.
Excellent. In that case, I can't see what their problem is.
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15 hours ago, reb78 said:
Need someone who turns up and doesnt run a mile because you ask them for a rough cost in advance....
Why am I not surprised ? I assume you have three phase on the premises somewhere, or thats going to need a mighty big incomer.
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Make some sort of progress with my engine conversion. More or less stalled for eight years now. Spent too much time helping other people, and also too many other more important things getting in the way though.
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ThreePointFive has a valid point !
Indeed, you could consider putting the 110 body on the Disco chassis and making a 100 inch hybrid, or even keeping the Disco, much nicer to drive ? Mind you, they do go rusty !
Plus your 110 will soon be tax exmept, will it not ?
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Interior needs to kept indoors, or left in situ until buyer is found.
I suggest you buy a Haynes manual, this will tell you most of what you need to know, and it will come in handy anyway for the engine etc.
Mechanically its pretty much the same as a Defender. Doors wings and tailgate are all saleable, as are the axles (Vulcan Bomber on here is looking for a rear axle)
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On 12/15/2021 at 6:35 PM, Rodney2 said:
Hi all
what was the cause of your gearbox problem?
I have the same issue with mine.
RegardsManxmann has not visited the forum since January 2017, so you are unlikely to get a reply !
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3 hours ago, uninformed said:
Thanks for updating. Land Rover bits, a lathe and pillar drill ….sounds like heaven to me 🙂
Not when you are climbing over them it isnt ! Luckily the milling machine is in the other corner !
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Here are the photos of my very early 110 doors and strikers. Sorry about the carp photos of the doors, they have been there for about 20 years, and since had a lathe put in front of them, and I was hanging over that, and a pillar drill. Doesnt show any detail of the lock itself unfortunately.
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Maybe one of these would help ?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Also I would take a ratty unrestored lump for low money and restore it properly to my own spec than pay 3x the price for someone else's work which may or may not be done right just because its shiny.
Me too, every time. I am always very suspicious of other peoples work, even more so with relatively major mods. However, you can normally tell what its like by how it has been finished off, and I dont mean if its shiney or not.
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5 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
trust me, with conversions you want to keep as many parts as possible completely standard or it gets messy and a pain to maintain;
Said the man with Portal axles
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9 hours ago, Phill S said:
Ok - next stage of sanity checking for my conversion 1987 2.5 NA diesel to V8 conversion planning...
I'm pretty stuck on going 3.5 or preferably 3.9. Mainly because I have a bay in my racking full of bits for these engines. Yeah, I know, I know, but 3.5/3.9 it's going to be.
Anything else I ought to be thinking about engine wise?
Phill
Yes. Fit something else !
However, if you must, engine mount brackets bolted to block are all the same on 3.5 and 3.9 RRC, Disco 1, and 90/110. Chassis brackets from same vehicles. Cut off an old chassis if you can, or buy them in if you can't. Making them yourself is an option, but more difficult to get exactly right.
For exhaust, use EFi cast iron manifolds. Early RRC EFi downpipes and Y piece will go over the top of the existing gearbox crossmenber. If you use the Disco downpipes and Y piece (non cat) you will have problems. You will need a different gearbox crossmember for a start, and the pipes will need altering slightly. Also the exhaust then runs UNDER the crossmember, which I have always thought a silly idea, even more so if you are going to off road it.
You do NOT need a oil cooler, unless you are racing it, or towing really heavy stuff.
You CAN get power steering pipes, but there are so many "standard" variations. Easier to get a hydraulic hose specialist to make them.
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As said, this sticker SHOULD be on the bonnet slam panel, but on most cars and vans now, it is also on the VIN sticker on the door jamb
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I dont think this has been thought through properly, given how younger drivers drive nowadays. In the lanes around where we live, it seems that people drive way too fast, with seemingly no concept of slowing down, and that something might be round a corner, or emerge from a hidden drive. Also, it seems that so many drivers are not able to manoeuvre their vehicles anything like properly, and are unable and therefore unwilling to reverse. How are they even going to cope with a trailer ?
I think there should be a training course. Still.
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What a good idea, but if you use a bender, pipe will not fit it.
If you use the adhesive lined stuff, that will seal as well.
Do you have any problem at MOT time (if you have one) I know they now give an advisory or worse if the are covered with anything like underseal or wax !
Gate build
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I would go for a diagonal brace flush to the back. Doesnt have to be box section, just a flat 3mm x 40 or 50. Then the infill planks can be screwed to that also, adding strength.
Either that or some decent fillets on the corners.
In fact I would NOT use a box section along the bottom edge, because this will create a ledge which will attract and hold water against the bottom of the planks, causing rot after a while