smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I get all my tyres from a well know auction site to fit myself, and they mostly seem to come via Hermes (now Evri)
Mostly just bound in pairs with parcel tape and a label stuck on ! No packaging at all.
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What about Geomet coating ? It is applied by cold immersion and is water based, but I dont know how its done , but is the finish used on most automotive nuts and bolts.
I dont even know if its possible to buy it, but there may be companies who will do it.
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Military surplus shops or stands at shows for webbing.
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I still think rag is better, and a lot cheaper in the long run.
Dont forget that you can put them in the washing machine with a good dose of detergent when SWMBO has gone out ! 😁
Unless they are sodden with oil of course
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I have looked at the sellers profile ...........
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1104936933441751/
Why would you break it ? Just taxed and MOT'd
And its green on the DVLA website.
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8 hours ago, Badger110 said:
Or lazy horse owners do it to spread the **** about rather than pick it up
Well, it is a bit of a fag ...........
Around here, the convention is to use an old farm gate.
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For spills and hand wiping, I just use kitchen roll now, usually "Plenty" or the bigger one, or "Blitz". Both have better absorption.
For wiping your parts, oo er, You cant beat cotton rag. All my old cotton tee shirts go this way, then, when they are oiled up, they make good firelighters.
I also use Costco yellow microfibre cloths, but this could be a bit extravagant !
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Shouldnt the harrow be the other way up ?
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When I worked in the Agri and plant industry, we used to sell OE, Crossland, and Fram, and the amount of customers who wouldnt buy OE fuel filters "because they block up too quick" you wouldnt believe.
Dont know about now because I have been out of it for 25 years, but Wix, Fram, and Crossland were ones to be avoided.
I only fit Mahle (Knecht) , Mann & Hummel, AC Delco, and Coopers, and of course OE.
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I cant offhand think of any vehicles that have a pusher fan as standard nowadays. Only ones I can think of were 1970s BMWs, and I cant even remember the model.
I still have the fan from one of these which I used as an extractor fan in the garage for years when I was painting. Its so powerful it would probably pull the Landy along by itself ! New concept for an EV possibly ??
You can use any puller fan in front of the rad, but would have to be a bit inventive with mounting it the right way. I have got a couple of fans here from failed experiments that you could have, but you need to make or modify cowlings or brackets to suit, but hey ! Where is the satisfaction of taking something out of a box and fitting it in an hour ?
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Yes, dont buy one of those Kenlowe things that mount with plastic fixings THROUGH the radiator core. What a stupid idea.
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No idea, but there are three different pitches of 16mm thread, or it could be 5/8 UNC or UNF. I cannot imagine it would be an older British Standard. Are there no bolt and nut stockists down your way to try ? Mind you, with the cost of fuel, running round trying to find a solution makes the costs add up..
Looking at the photo of the tool, and assuming its the bigger end you are after, the thread looks quite coarse, so I will stick my neck out and say its likely to be 5/8 UNC. Some older towball retaining bolts are this size, if you have an older vehicle hanging about.
Trouble is, bolts of this size are not pennies, and by the time you have bought a selection from the well known auction site, you may as well just buy the Xmod tool.
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Glad you have found the problem (hopefully) but i have to say that spraying easy start over a running spark ignition engine really is not a good idea.
Might have ended up looking like a scene from Saving Private Ryan !
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WBAC.com offered me £500 more for my 06 plate Renault Master than I paid for it eight years ago ! AND it has no MOT.
You are right, the world has gone mad.
Dont think I would pay 215k for a Pretender though, when they come down to around £1500, then I might think about it.
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Another vote for drilling and tapping thermostat housing. I know nowadays it is the convention to go for somewhere on the cold side of the cooling system, but that is because most modern systems are running on the ragged edge of only just enough capacity in both quantity of coolant and radiator size, plus its good for emissions (but we dont care about that) and many modern engines are quite fragile regarding their cooling.
I would always run a relay, and I would use the little 70 amp Durite ones, as I think more is always better ! Ignition controlled though, I dont see the point in the fan "running on" as a lot of modern vehicles do, then the engine has been shut off and coolant is not being circulated. Only benefit is cooling the engine bay as far as I can see.
You should be letting the engine idle for a while prior to shutting down, if it has been running hot/working hard in any case ! Sorry, direct from "Sucking eggs, a guide for Grandmothers"
I always prefer the push or blow through format, to me it seems much more effective quickly. However, there is the opinion by some that it actually inhibits cooling, but I never found it a problem.
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6 hours ago, Vvv8 said:
Silly question or not does efi and carbs run the same cam the guy put this on carbs ran badly due to un match carbs I never changed the cam as it was in new condition
No. the camshafts are not the same, however, I have run both types on carbs and EFI and vice versa. Difference not really noticable, and it would not cause this problem in any case.
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13 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
A wee bit of robolishion on our kiln inlet regards Stephen
What happened to the gang of blokes with hammers and bolsters ? Little wonder there is such a lack of employment opportunities nowadays !
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Die grinder or Dremel, but I have to agree with Dave Ashcroft regarding the hardening. I fear you will be wasting your time and will end up destroying the rest of the internals if put back into service. IMO these things would have been better if the gears had been straight cut, so no side loading. Might have been a bit noisier, but I wouldnt think anyone would have noticed 🤣
Probably better off off having one made ? Depends on cost I guess, but it wouldnt be at all difficult for someone with the right machine.
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Did you grease the seal between the lips ? As there is no oil behind it to lubricate it it needs some grease. I always use synthetic grease for this, as it doesnt dry out.
I cant remember now, but dont you have to put the seal the wrong way round to keep stuff out, or is it a double sided thing ?
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On 5/26/2022 at 7:51 PM, ThreePointFive said:
Not to be too OT but I've read that Robins are not friendly at all and their propensity to get up close is actually a furious display to see us off their territory.
I just like the idea we're all thinking how adorable and friendly they are while really there is nothing but a hate-filled rage with the burning intensity of a thousand (tiny) suns inside their little heads.
It's the small things....
Its really not that at all. Robins are only aggressive to their own kind and mostly during the breeding season or when food is really scarce. They get close to us when gardening because they see us as pigs, turning over the soil for them to take advantage of the easy pickings. They also recognise you if you feed them. We had a Robin here for five years that I could hand feed with grated cheese. He, or she (hard to tell the difference) would come into the lobby chirping to remind us it was feeding time. We named him Mr Cheese. Sadly gone now. He was also a beautiful singer, so loud too, I couldnt believe such a small bird could produce such volume.
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Can play the video but sound is not good enough on my laptop.
Doesn't sound like a usual lifter noise though, as you say, sounds heavier. Can you tell if its at the front or back ?
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I would also have a look at the power resistor for the injectors. There may be a dry joint or semi break inside, which could cause your problem. Hard to diagnose by just putting a meter on it as its intermittent.
From memory I think each circuit is 60 ohms ?
Only real way is to try a substitute.
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From memory doesnt the series underseat cubby box (battery box on Defender) have an angled bit to clear the series chassis ? ISTR having to change it ?
Maybe it was for another reason though.
Best angle grinder to buy?
in International Forum
Posted
Getting back to angle grinders, there is, of course, something else to consider ...........
I have a Dewalt 9 inch model D28411. It was 'kin expensive when new, about 15 years ago, and up to today, it has been brilliant. It has done literally thousands of cuts in bricks and concrete blocks, slabs, roof tiles etc, channelled walls and floors, cut up several old vehicles, steel beams and rebar, all with no problems at all, Been left out in the rain several times, but has been really reliable.
However, today, while cutting yet more concrete blocks, I put it down on a stack of blocks (two high) with the blade off, but still spinning. Unfortunately, behind me, the rubber cable had looped around a piece of timber on the floor. When I stepped back, I trod on the other end of the timber, which pulled the grinder off of the blocks and onto the concrete floor. It fell onto the edge of the blade, which as I said, was still spinning. Result ..... gouged concrete, buckled two day old £32 diamond disc, and to cap it off, has also slightly bent the grinder spindle.
Anyway, the good thing about buying proper branded stuff , is that you can get spare parts for them, whereas the cheap stuff, you can't. I CAN get a new shaft, but it comes complete with the housing, bearing, and both gears, costing £101 plus postage. So, sadly it is effectively a write off.
Went to the catalogue stores for a new one, but on checking it at the counter, mainly to make sure it has a rubber, and not PVC covered cable, I noticed on the label "Made in PRC". The old one was made in Germany, so I didnt buy it, and came away empty handed to do some research. In the meantime, I will use my old "Black Spur" (I have never heard of them either) brand grinder, which again has been beaten within an inch of its life, but still survives, despite costing about £35 new.
Lets face it, none of this stuff is as good as it used to be, no matter what brand you buy. In the smaller 115mm size, I have killed Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee, and various cheap ones. Longest lasting and best by far was a Black and Decker, but this was back when they were a proper machine tool company, followed by the Hitachi, (now Hokikoki or something) and cheap Einhell that I still have, despite it being dropped from a roof.
An incident like today can happen any time, to anyone, and will likely ruin an expensive machine as well as a cheap one, which is something to consider, and also, is a "good brand" really going to last more than twice as long as a cheapie ?