smallfry
-
Posts
1,734 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by smallfry
-
-
^^^^ He means an M57 fitted to 3 series and 5 series. Engine is cheap to buy (here) adaptor plates easy to buy, and I reckon you can do it for less than £2000 if you do the work yourself, but as with all these conversions, how much petrol could you buy with that ? Remember you are only gaining the difference between the price of petrol or diesel, and also, modern diesels have a lot of expensive bits on them that could end up costing serious money.
An old fashioned "clockwork" diesel engine like a 200 or 300 tdi will seem very noisy, coarse, and unrefined, compared to the V8 (or the M57)
If the V8 is running Ok and you do not do moon mileage, probably better to leave it alone ? Unless you really want the project.
-
No battery expert either, but as it appears you have nothing to lose, (except another £100) I would try giving it some exercise.
Charge it fully and put something on it pulls about 10 amps, headlamps ? and let it drop to 11.5 volts or so, and repeat. Might clean the plates a bit.
These sort of batteries do like to be used ......... charge and discharge.
I know what you mean about bottled gas, couldnt believe how much they wanted for my little plumbing cylinder !
-
1
-
-
Its a question, isnt it ? Remember the value of investments (not that you bought it for that I suspect) can fall as well as rise.
If its kept indoors and not in the way, and you dont NEED the money, then keep if if you want to, but if its outside, it might as well go while still able.
Are you realistically going to do anything with it ? If you restore it, or pay to have it restored, will you use it ? How long ago did you do anything at all with it ?
If have a similar dilemma with my Rover P5B coupe. It been in my garage for 12 years untouched and buried with stuff. It needs light restoration as its one of those cars that needs to be immaculately turned out, or it looks shabby. In my mind I want to drive it on sunny weekends, but will I ? I dont realistically have the time, and the more I think about it, whats the point in having it ? I couldnt leave it anywhere for fear of theft or vandalism. I find car shows incredibly tedious, so couldnt do that.
And yet, I still keep it for now, in the silly notion that I will miraculously find the time (which I won't) Also knowing that I would never be able to afford another one that good. It is cluttering up my life and it should go ........... Then there is the 90 V8 SW !
So yes, I understand your turmoil, but as I said, if it lives outside
-
5 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Just a thought - some cars like Mercedes A-Class have small electric power steering pumps that make life easy, put them anywhere, given them 12v and away they go.
Project Binky used one, it's very neat, integrated reservoir on top and everything. Made by ZF I believe.
Astra G and Astra H diesels have them too, good thing about these pumps is that when your engine driven hydraulic pump is a bit tired, or the belt is wet, you get very little assistance at low engine speeds, whereas the electric one works all the time. They are reliable too !
-
1
-
-
37 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
That's a fair point, but not everyone drives a classic because it's a classic.
I've had my series for twenty five years, it's just the Landrover, used for hauling stuff, green laning, moving house, and going to the shops. I put a TDI in it because petrol prices in the country we were living at the time were stopping me from using it, and I'll convert to electric/hydrogen/coal/ecopetrol when the time is right.
I like driving it, but it's just a vehicle, not a holy object that must be kept as the venerated designer intended.
l'll keep it on the road for as long as I can, partially as my personal understanding of the eco cost of a vehicle is that it causes as much damage to make a new one as it does to run an old one for 50,000 miles. But mainly as I think it's wasteful to scrap vehicles.
Maybe I'd feel different if it was a unique piece of exotic motoring history, but probably not.
I was not actually thinking of Land Rovers actually. Radical modifications have been the norm since they were created. Its that type of vehicle.
I was thinking more along the lines of fifties, sixties, and seventies monocoque stuff. I dont think anyone with a pre war Austin Seven or Rolls Royce Phantom would even consider it !
I dont believe in total originality either, fine for a museum exhibit, but silly if you actually want to use it on the road. Improve what you have is fine (not to some) but an electric conversion is a major step too far IMO. Might as well build a kit car.
I also think its wasteful to scrap cars (and vans) thats why my garden is full of them. I get attached to them for all sorts of reasons, and I also hate the process of selling them, but thats another story !
-
1
-
1
-
-
Thats brilliant. Thanks very much chaps ! I thought this would be the case, but just thought I would check !
-
I dont get why you would want to convert a classic to electric in any case. Surely you have them because they are what they are, and have charm and character, mostly slow by todays standards (I have a Rover P5B V8 coupe but my old Astra diesel will out accelerate it easily) has rubbish brakes, have relatively dire fuel consumption, and quite involving (difficult) to drive.
Take away its engine and the very reasons you have it for are gone, its then just a dull characterless shadow of its former self, so whats the point ? Might just as well have a Nissan Leaf instead.
I also dont get the mindset of having to "prove" your old classic can out accelerate a BMW M3 or whatever.
-
1
-
-
I want to fit a reversing camera to one of my vans, as the door mirrors seem useless for judging distance.
It needs to be high up on the rear door facing down, and some are available that are incorporated into a high level brake light, which looks to be a good solution, no drilling and neat.
However, I see that some have IR night vision LEDs, and some don't. My question is, are they necessary, being that the vehicle has good reversing lights anyway ? Given that the LED IR ones are nearly twice the price, will they offer any real benefit ?
What do you think ?
-
44 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Don’t worry - the science shows we are close to peaking now and will collapse shortly.
But the exodus from overseas is going to more than fill the gap.
-
I wouldn't assume anything done by a professional. That only means they do it for a living, not that they are any good or have done it right.
They only way you could get anything like a correct reading on the clock, would be to get the stylus on the outer rim of the lifter if possible. With a visual inspection you will only see if its quite badly worn and/or pitted. Its normally the third and fourth and sometimes the second lobe from the back that go first and are the most worn. Why ? I have no idea, but there must be some sort of fundamental problem.
No point in measuring the actual valve lift and trying to work backwards from that either, there are too many wear variables in the rockers, shafts and valves themselves to get accuracy.
This is the problem with "standard" aftermarket camshafts. There is no way that you can get the exact specs, and they are usually a one size fits all sort of thing. Treatment and hardening can be somewhat hit and miss too.
Whereas a good quality aftermarket upgrade manufacturer will be able to give the exact specs, but once it has been fitted by someone else (like yours) you dont know what you have to start with. However, if you are lucky, you might find some info stamped on the rear end.
Same with lifters. Do NOT buy any from random ebay sellers either. Must come from an established supplier with a good reputation.
-
3 hours ago, Daan said:
Do a search on L322 gearbox failures. They have about 300hp with a ZF24. If you still want an auto after this I can only conclude you are deranged.
What clutch are you using?
I would look at adapting an AP racing clutch or similar.
Daan
That will be the 5hp24. Different type of lightweight geartrain and quite frankly, rubbish.
-
2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
So…..
EV conversions ….
😂😂
Sorry. What about them ? You should start a thread on them 😁
-
1
-
-
I would be hoping to get about 190 psi on a newish engine, but what you have is fine , I would not be concerned about that.
Remember that valve lift figures are misleading. The rocker ratio is 1.6 to 1, so for example, if you have valve lift of 16mm, the cam lobe will give a reading of 10mm, if that makes sense. Also, you have to factor in some of the valve lifters may have lost some oil, so may not give the same reading.
-
3 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
This illustration is only valid if you have crushing disappointment also going into the front end !
-
Auto. Much better. The only real reason to have a 4hp22 upgraded with 4hp24 internals, is to retain the hydraulic control. Much better to use the whole 4hp24 (with different output shaft is necessary)and use Compushift or similar for full electronic programmable control.
Might have had 342hp and 400lbs when built, but now your camshaft is
worn outbroken in, you may as well install an alloy block BMW M57 LCE diesel, which will out accelerate it easily, more power, more torque, and give you more MPG. It can come with a 6HP26 which you will struggle to break. Only needs an adaptor to the transfer box and a standalone ECU loom. Apart from the engine mounts and exhaust, its all standard parts. -
What is being talked about is taking away independence, and that is never going to happen "voluntarily". Mass pubic transport is fine and dandy if you live and work in the same town or city, and never want to stop off on the way for milk, box of screws, etc. Most people dont, and also do not have the same destinations.
Public transport is also grubby, inconvenient, and most importantly, expensive, and that is NEVER going to change, except to get even MORE expensive, as the companies involved will have to invest colossal sums in staff, vehicles, and infrastructure. You only have to look at the railways to see this, despite what the pie in the sky futurologists and dreamers say. Plus of course, its all about the profit.
If it were up to me, I would stop this ridiculous commuting completely. You would only be able to have a job outside the home if you lived within walking of cycling distance. Same with schools, and NO school runs permitted. If you dont like it, then tough. This would be a MUCH better and more cost effective solution to the whole environmental and congestion problem.
-
27 minutes ago, monkie said:
I think EVs will really start taking over from ICE vehicles when battery and charging technology is such that charging at home becomes unnecessary. Instead you are able to top up the battery in minutes locally just like filling up with fuel, then go home. That way it doesn't matter if you don't have a drive or maybe live in a flat.
Unless they come up something radical and as yet undiscovered, I dont see this happening anytime soon.
-
I dont mind the flapper system at all. Never really had any issues with it, and I have had quite a few. 3.9 will run fine on it in standard form, as it has a plus 25% fuelling capability. Only real issues with them is power resistor failure to one or more injectors, and the injectors sticking due to dirt or lack of use. Another thing now will be degradation of the little hoses that connect them to the fuel rail (due to modern fuels) AFMs can wear, but at high mileage/or due to carp air filtration.
Another thing now, due to age, will be a stiff and crusty wiring harness and poor connections. A hotwire setup will be no better in this respect.
If the cam is worn, it will never run properly, but is still forgiving in that respect. Remember though, all that worn metal end up in the oil. Getting a decent standard camshaft is quite difficult now, as are the lifters. My choice would be either Kent Cams, Crower, or Comp Cams. As Geoff says, you want high torque at low end.
-
9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
It reminds me of the wild west of shonky LPG conversions back in the day that seemed great from afar but were all scotchloks, self-tappers, and screwfix plumbing supplies if you delved into them.
Last year we went to an Agricultural show. There was a stand with a new MG (Tata) EV on show with the bonnet up. It looked to be a bit like this !
-
1
-
-
Then there is the voltages used. Enough to do you serious harm. Think railway live rail.
-
16 hours ago, miketomcat said:
@FridgeFreezer had an lt85 tunnel in his ambulance with an r380 gearbox. I made a new r380 tunnel for him.
Mike
Sorry Mike, my mistake !
-
22 hours ago, Arjan said:
Thank you !!
Hope it fits - getting stuff from the UK is not as easy as it was....
You happy with the LT85 ?
Thank your government and the EU for that one ! Its not from this end. Politics. Arrrrrrrrgh !
LT85 ? Top gear is slightly lower than an R380/LT77, but with that engine I think you would want to change the transfer box ratio anyway.
They say its stronger, but I cannot vouch for that. It IS noisier, but the diesel will drown that out, and they tend to wear the shaft bearings a whine a bit.
Gearchange is fine for me, but then I am used to driving heavier vehicles, dont notice
-
1
-
-
I am a bit confused, so more info is required. Tool boxes and textured wall coverings in the same location ? Tools kept indoors or do you have a snazzy workshop ?
Re the dust, about 20 years ago, I decided the sand down the stippIe effect Artex ceiling in the bathroom, using an electric sander. What a mistake. It was night time and dark outside, and I had the window open, and obviously the light on. I was wearing googles and a double filter respirator. After sanding about four square feet, the new filters were blocked and I could hardly breath. I switched the sander off and stepped off the beer crate. On looking round, all I could see was the light bulb through a swirling white cloud. Nothing else at all. I had to grope for the door to let myself out. I was completely covered in dust. Took ages to clean up the dust and used several hoover bags. Never again, it is too much of a hazard to health. Be aware that old textured covering had asbestos in it, so I'm told.
Ended up taking the ceiling down and re boarding it.
You experience is almost a daily occurrence here. I have to make a conscious effort now when putting things down to make a note of where I put it. Maybe we should make a forum block booking for anger management sessions ?
-
1
-
-
I have an LT85 in mine and it looks more or less the same. Maybe the tunnel moulding (its plastic or glassfibre) is a bit bigger as the LT85 is a bit more bulky ?
I think Miketomcat made one for someone a while ago. Might still have the mould. I imagine a "proper" one might be hard to get nowadays.
Changing front springs - Sanity check please - Am I being thick
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Done this on 90s with no problems, but not 110 ?
Anyway, I found that if you take the front two bolts out of the radius arm to axle (not the rear ones) It allows the axle to fall a lot further, provided they are not all seized in the bushes. You wanted an extra little jobette though, didnt you ? Put the bolts back when the weight is on the springs.
Or just disconnect the radius arm from the chassis, one side at a time.
Mind the brake hoses though. Tighter wound coils at the top. Dont forget the shock absorbers 😁