smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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16 hours ago, monkie said:
An idea off the top of my head, so could be a load of nonsense...
Could it be that either the mounting bracket (part number 5 in the diagram below) that holds the injection pump to the cover plate on the block or indeed something to do with the cover plate (thickness, gaskets, warped?) could be misaligned, out of spec so that it is holding the pump at a slight angle? Not enough to be visually obvious, but enough to cause the problem you have.
It wouldnt take much at all to make the belt run off.
You could try marking the relationship between the brackets 2 and 5 in Monkies diagram, then loosen the bolts 7, and see if the rear end of the pump moves towards the engine block at all. If it doesnt, see if you can lever it in very slightly (this is the way it will need to go) and re tighten.
I have been looking at the engines I have here that use clockwork FIPs and a belt (Isuzu, Renault, and Merc) and it is interesting to note that the flange that the FIP is bolted to is cast as part of the engine block, so that there can be no misalignment. Even another Renault engine and a BMW M57, which are common rail, and use gears and a chain respectively have the same "cast in" arrangement. Whereas the 200 and 300 Tdi relies on an aluminium casing, which may not be machined quite parallel, and also a gasket which is another possible suspect. It would only take a small amount to cause this problem.
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It all depends on how quickly you want it up and running, and to what standard. I know the answer is always "by tomorrow" but any body repairs are much easier with the body off. I only ever tried the complete body off approach with a 109 some years ago, but that ended up having to take it all to bits in the end, and once you start that, it ends up being a near "as new" rebuild.
You are sure to find things that you are not yet aware of !
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1 hour ago, Maverik said:
belt seemed to want to run against the outer lip of tensioner which put the belt about 1mm overhang off the FIP pulley.
This really does suggest to me that one of shaft axes is "pulling in" and out of parallel, due to either wear or misalignment. This will cause the belt to be trying to walk off the front of the pulleys.
Crankshaft and camshaft run in the block so they are the least likely suspects, although if the cam bearings have been line bored, they could be slightly out. Just because Turners did it , does not mean it might be out !
As the tensioner is new, it might be worth trying another one, but the most likely candidate to me would be the FIP. Can you get hold of a magnetic base dial gauge, and see if there is any sideways movement in the shaft and pulley.
Could try slightly less tension on the belt ?
Sorry. Its all depressing stuff !
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Pressing the clutch will alter the RPMs slightly, so that would alter the sound. Im with Bowie on this one, I would imagine the noise would become much worse when the clutch was pressed, if the thrusts were worn to any degree.
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Could it be the bearings in the injection pump or idler ? A little bit of wear would cause a pulley to "tilt" slightly.
Or even the camshaft bearings ?
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37 minutes ago, Carloz said:
We think we need it but can do with less...
My parents had a (real) Fiat 600 when they got me. Worked out well...
Indeed. My parents had a Morgan three wheeler when I was born ! Didnt work out well at all. Dad had to give in eventually and bought a Hillman Minx phase V instead.
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7 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:
Will either of those give enough assistance? Corsa and Yaris are both a wee bit smaller than a land rover....
Brother in law has fitted a Corsa one to his Unimog 404 and says its great. Not quite one finger twirling, but more than good enough.
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Vauxhall Corsa C and Combo C have the ECM bolted to the column assy. They are plug and play..
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Apparently lanolin is one of the constituent parts of WD40 along with white spirit.
WD40 is a good water dispersant, that will be the white spirit, but as for any sort of long term corrosion protection and lubricant, I have found it useless.
Hence my reluctance to use lanolin.
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A company here in UK called Speedy cables, will make any cable with different ends and lengths that you want.
Will also recalibrate the speedo to suit, but will need all the details of gear ratios and tyres etc.
Had things done by them and worked well, and not that expensive. I guess postage and time will be a problem for you ?
Must have someone similar in Norway ?
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What about one of the grommets that was used on the front to rear wiring harness on 90/110 where it was run inside the chassis ? Dont know the size offhand, but that would be about the size you need. Would need a part number though.
Also have a look at the TLC electrical website. They do large OD grommets to pass incoming mains to fusebox/consumer unit. Wiska Sprint Grommets. I think they come closed and you make your own hole.
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7 hours ago, reb78 said:
Its the 'creep' of these as a relatively light product that appeals. Whereas a lot of the wax based products are quite thick unless you thin them down with white spirit, i am guessing these lanolin based products creep well being thin? Trade off seems to be the need to coat more often?
Waxoyl does seem to dry out eventually, nicely hiding rust underneath. I have always mixed mine with old engine oil and that's worked ok.
The creep on Lanolin seems to more heat dependent than oil based stuff, although its always better to treat the vehicle when its hot weather.
I dont rate waxoyl at all. I have cut up a few vehicles that have been treated, and found it dried out on top of galloping rust, but then again, box sections on old vehicles are impossible to clean up properly beforehand.
I cant find any answers regarding applying lanolin on top of previously applied oil based products either. Emails have not been replied to !
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4 hours ago, simonr said:
Lanolin must work - when have you ever seen a rusty Sheep? 😉
I guess that applies to Snakes with Snake-Oil too!
Just sayin' 🙂
They could be from the same factory ?
Badge engineering like British Leyland
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24 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Doesn’t @Nonimouse use them ? Or did dream that ?
I know the Aussie 4x4 guy .. what’s his name, lots of videos on YouTube, big beard … anyway he’s done some reports on it and rates it - and the underside of his truck looked very good.
Yes but Australia ? Only rains once every ten years, and the rest of the time is 30 degrees plus. Or so I am told.
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You must be telescopic ! I was just going to post a thread on this very subject !
I agree, they are so good that they will morph the rust back into solid metal. All the reviews seem to be based on the ease of application, rather than any on long term effectiveness. Those that are, on being used on new vehicles which should not be going rusty yet, so are meaningless for anyone with an older vehicle.
Its easy to apply stuff over badly prepared surfaces, and I am not convinced that it is that easy. I mean, its easy to paint on top of rust, damp, and dirt, but it will ultimately be a waste of time. I am also concerned that it needs re applying every year to be "effective". You do not have to do this with Bilt Hamber, which is my favourite, athough it wouldnt hurt, except for your pocket of course, and the lanolin products are much more expensive. However, I am always on the look out for something better !
Selling this stuff (and more traditional products) is great. When you get a customer complaint, you can just fob them off, saying its all down to poor application.
As we all know, you are pi**ing into the wind with rust inhibiting in any case. Nature always wins.
Is there anyone out there who has real life long term experience with old vehicles ?
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2 hours ago, Phill S said:
Yes please! I'll be up your way early next month and could collect then. Don't know if I'll use it, but will pass on for free to the next guy if I don't. I can see how the crossmember sits, but can't make out how the transmission supports work? Maybe I could bother you for another pic on that? You know how it is, very often it can be hard to work out how to do something until you have it in your hands...
In other news, I have a cunning (budget) plan forming as a get me going measure, more on that when I've checked measurements
No problem, just let me know when, and if, you are coming. I can be around any time, any day.
I know what you mean about having stuff in your hands, theory and pictures help, but its no substitute.
Will try and do another pic for you, but I have to find a transfer box first thats off a vehicle.
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20 hours ago, Bigj66 said:
I had the 110, Series 3 88 and a 24v Ford Capri Cosworth that I built from scratch. The Capri and 88 were hardly used and just sat in the garage gathering dust and taking up space.
Out of all of them I preferred the Series 3 so I sold the other 2 and invested the money into it so I can now use it everyday as it’s maker intended.
Cars are meant to be driven not used as expensive ornaments. It’s quite liberating to get rid of those dormant projects and just have one good useable one that you can actually enjoy.
Couldnt agree more ! Only problem is actually doing it, its such a wrench. Also all these projects dilute your time and effort, not to mention finances !
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Or ........ I have got this. It came from a manual Disco 1 facelift, but I have had in in the workshop for 20 years, and I cannot remember if it was a Tdi or a V8. Not doubt someone who is more familiar with Discos will recognise it ?
It bolts onto the bottom of the transfer box and takes the place of the two individual handed mountings. It has the end plates welded at an angle to suit the engine and gearbox.
All you would have to do is weld some crush tubes into your chassis in the required position.
Yours if you want it.
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4 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
Very aware of that, what I’m saying is I don’t think that’s a 4wd r380 from a disco.
this is, it doesn’t have the 2 ribs at the top
These are the bellhousings I remember, not the one Phil has got. I dont recognise that at all, and it looks shorter to me, but as said.as long as the input shaft is the right length it would be fine.
I know that Disco 2s (with the Thor engine) were fitted with R380s, but were Disco 1 V8s fitted with R380s ? I dont remember seeing one, only LT77s
I have been and looked at the TD5 Disco 2, and the transfer box to chassis mounts are a completely different arrangement, and I would assume the V8 variant uses the same setup.
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Having done this conversion several times, I am a bit puzzled. However, I only ever did 4cyl to V8 using the LT77, LT85 or the ZF auto, but not the R380. Always used the 4cyl transfer box mounts and standard position V8 engine chassis mounts with no problem. So it must be to do with the R380and/or the bellhousing.
As far as I remember, the LT77 was shorter than the R380, but had a longer bellhousing. Overall they came up the same length. The V8 bellhousing to LT77 was smooth (no ribs) but always looked very long. To use this would make the gearbox input shaft too short. What is the overall length of the gearbox/bellhousing combo ?
What is that bellhousing off of ? I do not recognise it.
Did they actually ever fit an R380 coupled to a V8 in a Defender or Disco 1 as standard ? I cant remember I thought the V8 in a Defender had been discontinued before the advent of the R380 except for special editions, which were all auto ISTR
As Retroanaconda says, the mounts must be different somehow ? Maybe Disco 2 V8 ones would get you sorted ? Got a Disco 2 but its a TD5. Also got a 4cyl 90, so I can go and have a look in the morning.
Do you still have the mountings from your donor Disco ? I would prefer to keep the transfer box in its standard position so that the propshafts and angles are all standard. I could live with the engine being a couple of inches back if needs be. When you used to convert a 4cyl to V8 using the 4cyl gearbox and an adaptor plate, the V8 was a lot further back than a "standard" V8 anyway, but of course, this then needed a non standard exhaust.
Never easy, is it ?
FridgeFreezer has a V8 ambulance fitted an R380, maybe he could shed some light ?
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I think it is good practice to have an engine/gearbox earth strap, even if the vehicle (whatever it is) does not appear to have one. Also an extra one !
You can never have too much earth, this goes for mains electricity too.
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Right. I had some really good photos of this, but they must have been on my old hard drive which went kaput, along with lots of other stuff.
I have just been up the garden to look at an old original chassis, but its buried under lots of carp, so I could only take the pics at arms length, but I think you can get the jist.
First thing, you have your mounts on the wrong side, so they need to be swapped side for side (LH to RH etc.)
The fillet lines up with the REAR edge of the spring mount.
All this assumes you are using standard V8 bellhousing to suit your particular gearbox. Engine should drop straight on.
On the pics, the one with the rubber mount still on is the RH (drivers side)
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That position is wrong for a standard fit, so dont weld yet. Hang on, I will try and find a pic of where they should be
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21 hours ago, Snagger said:
I don’t understand some peoples’ fascination with zombie apocalypse window grilles. The most offensive thing on the car, though, are the seat covers. At least they can be removed in seconds and would make good kindling for a camp fire.
Probably a safeguard against the Anti Oil or Extinction Rebellion protesters ?
I will also have you know that I have a pair of those seat covers in my car ! In defence though, they were only £2 at a boot fair.
Looks like the Defender is going to do some skipping !
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200tdi (def) timing belt noise.
in International Forum
Posted
Freelander 1 TD4 engines have a common problem with the crankshaft pulley/damper. When its failing is makes a ringing chirruping sort of noise that is hard to locate. Might be a similar thing ? I know you said that you had changed the damper.
With the TD4 engine, the cheap replacements seem to make the same noise, I found this out by experience, and a Corteco one cured it for me. More expensive of course!
Have a look with the engine idling when its dark and shine a torch on it, and you can see the fairy dust !