smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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The Daihatsu is a great engine. Much better than a TDi IMO. Its just very heavy.
The Disco is a completely different thing to a Series. It has a lot of soundproofing, and transplanting the engine into a Series will NOT make it more "relaxing". A Series will still be bouncy, and needs constant steering correction compared to modern vehicles. You have to drive it, not just be a passenger.
A petrol will be more relaxing (quiet) and a V8, even a 3.5, will be MUCH more fun to drive, and driver normally will return about 20mpg. That would be my choice, even though I am not a great fan of the Rover V8 myself
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23 hours ago, pete3000 said:
The only other thought is the notes were lighter (worn down) or wrong paper (counterfeit). So maybe don't look too close?. Just a thought.
It WAS a really hot day, and it did cross my mind, as most of the notes were the older paper type notes, but as they were not stuffed into a sweaty pocket or down me trousers, I did not think that it could be this.
As has been said, I doubt if they have the most inexpensive Argos scales in a Bank, so I cant realistically see that being a problem.
I have spoken again to the buyer or the vehicle, and he said that both of us counted it, and no way was it wrong. I am convinced it was correct, as does SWMBO.
So after a lot of thought, I think I will report after all.
Thanks to all those who replied for your input.
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On 7/20/2021 at 8:32 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
I nearly bought a TD5 Disco as a daily until I saw the MPG, may as well have the V8 there's so little in it - and the TD5 doesn't appear any more reliable and is more complicated.
@muddy driving at 55-60mph is what does it (and accelerating gently) as air resistance goes up exponentially as you get faster. I can get 22mpg out of the ambulance (4.6 V8, ~3ton, huge frontal area) if I stick in the slow lane, dropping to ~16mpg at 80mph.
Indeed.
Got to factor in the wear and tear on the Defender plus the cost of tyres, which will be a lot if you are realistic.
If you are worried that "someone might see you", well take it from me........ No one cares. Its the same with prestige cars. The only people who care are someone else who has got one.
Buy a sub £1k Diesel estate. More practical and useable on EVERY level than a 90, except off road of course. You will be quids in.
Also VERY useful to have a spare vehicle. Especially when the Defender lets you down. Again.
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IIRC Slave cylinder bore on the V8s is different. I cant remember if you can fit a 4 pot one to the bellhousing though ? Adjusting the pushrod to get no slip, and then hard to get in gear suggests the hydraulics, release lever, bearing or pivot............... Actually again its a long time since I have played with this stuff, but ISTR that the pivot length is different between the LT77 and R380, or maybe its the 4 pots ?
I cant see that the standard clutch would slip as its quite big, not unless you are towing something VERY heavy.
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
Nothing to be done , you should have took it back and counted right there on your side of the glass .
Put it down to experience . I trust no one in situations like that , and to be honest , you are lucky none were forged .
Steve
The buyer was a friend of Brother in Law, so I wasnt really concerned about counterfeit notes, although I do not really like taking cash now for that reason.
I figured that if it was a sleight of hand thing (she left the desk) the difference would already be gone, so no point in me counting it. As you say, I have put it down to experience, but if there is a next time, I will count it out over the counter.
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At the weekend I sold one of our vehicles for £6k. The buyer didnt want to do a bank transfer, as he said he had a lot of cash he wanted to get rid of. All in Twenties.
He insisted on counting it out in front of me, and insisted that I counted it again myself, which I did. All present and correct. Off he went with the vehicle no problem.
I dont like having this sort of money hanging around, so it left me with the problem of having to take it to my Bank, but of course its not quite so easy nowadays, as my local branch, along with many others has closed down. So I had to go to another town.
So, yesterday morning I counted it out again, (and got SWMBO to check it) into three envelopes of £2k each, and drove to the Bank. So far so good.
Arrived at bank and presented cash and details to cashier, who then proceeded to count it herself, flicking through it herself, then using one of those electronic scales to weigh it. She then told me it was £60 short, and would I like to count it again myself ? I said it cannot be, as three people had already checked it. She then left the desk, to "turn off the aircon", as that sometimes affects the scales. She then weighed it again, and said that came up the same. £60 short.
Of course, you start to doubt yourself, but I insisted the scales must be wrong. SO, with a puff, she counted it manually, very quickly. Twice. She then said that yes, the scales must be wrong, as it was actually £100 short. As I said, you start to doubt yourself, and added to that, people in the queue behind were huffing and puffing, so add some embarrassment to the doubt. I figured that she must be right, and that we have all miscounted, also that if the money was missing, there was no point in me taking it back and counting again, so I agreed it was short, so account was credited £5900.
I felt uneasy driving home, and the more I thought about it, the more I thought I had diddled by some sleight of hand.
Back home, SWMBO said no way was it short. She worked for a Credit Union, and is very used to counting cash, as am I, due to my ex job. She also thinks something has gone on. There is no chance any of it has been "lost" or "borrowed".
So, do I report it ? Of course I have absolutely no evidence, but I still cannot believe that three of us got it wrong, but I feel uneasy about it, and that, couple with the fact that this branch is closing down in a couple of weeks, is making me suspicious.
I cant help wondering if other customers have experienced the same, but have said nothing because of self doubt, and not wanting to drop anyone in it with false accusations.
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20 hours ago, muddy said:
d the obligatory slave cylinder rod retaining clip, can you even call yourself a landcover mechanic if you haven't had to take at least one gearbox back out to put that back on? perhaps we should have a tally system like WW2 fighters had for kills 😆
Its probably for the best that we are NOT working on WW2 Fighters................
Actually, I wonder if aircraft mechanics have these problems ? 😲
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Oh hell no - we once did a clutch twice in one 24h period in the lab because the V8 and TDi release bearings look identical but aren't... and we had one of each on the shelf
Reminds me of a few years ago when myself and a mate changed the clutch on his Sierra. His OH wanted to take the kids to the seaside in the afternoon.
We did it in less than an hour, and as we sat on the garden wall with a celebratory cup of tea, he spotted the new release bearing, and said "we must have put the old one back in".
I picked up the old one, which was on the wall next to me, and said "no we didnt".
Luckily it wasnt anything complicated.
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First, try some PTFE tape on the bleed nipple thread. Not too much, a couple of turns. Then try bleeding again.
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I must confess I spend a fair bit of time taking things apart again, In order to install "bits left over", or have replaced stuff in the wrong order, so have to do it again
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12 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Actually that was a General Grabber and I was less than impressed, no tyre managed more than 15k. Plenty of tread but sidewalls perished.
Replaced them with Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs and they were orders of magnitude better.
Sorry, looked like a Goodyear AT. Anyway, General Grabber is one brand I would not buy. Back in the day, when I was into Custom and Hot Rods, they had a reputation for lasting well but being ditch finders, and perishing. Great for burnouts being that they had no grip ! Back to these days, I see many "TRs" with perishing sidewalls but lots of tread, so I guess not much has changed there. Maybe the UK climate doesn't suit them ?
SWMBO has Goodyear ATs on her Jimny, and they have lasted well with no problems at all. I hate budget tyres, so I generally buy their Vector all seasons for my daily drivers, and again have had no problems, other than the previously mentioned sidewall tear, but that would have finished off most tyres ! I have got MTRs on my 90, but that hasnt turned a wheel for a few years now, but they are not at all perished.
Dont know about Cooper. Lot of them about, but never has any myself, but in the past I have had Goodrich ATs, MTs, and my favourite all rounder, the Trac Edge, and all of them were fine, other than the MTs being a bit skiddy (and a bit noisy) on the road, but thats only to be expected. I would buy the Trac Edge again, I dont know why they were discontinued ☹️
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I have looked at the Paintman website, and they describe it as synthetic Coach Enamel. They then go on to say that it cannot be machined polished, which suggests to me that it is not hard wearing.
Synthetic Enamel is a hard wearing paint used on plant and machinery. These would not normally be machine polished or waxed in any case, but machinery does tend to lose its gloss over time.
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Another Goodyear !
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I started my apprenticeship in body and paint in 1976. Coach enamel was the thing to use in the 1970s,by those who wanted to DIY or couldnt afford a respray.
Was used by those who built railway carriages, busses, horseboxes, and horse drawn carriages etc. Which were generally skinned with plywood.
Not really suitable for automotive use, as it is fairly soft and tends to fade and dull down. Also was generally brush applied, and required a certain amount of skill and experience to get a good finish. Also it cannot be machine polished or Manually polished with T-Cut If it was thinned in order to spray it, you had to be very careful to avoid runs and tended to give an orange peel finish. Paint a chassis or an engine block with it by all means, but I would not use it on bodywork.
I would use 2k preferably or cellulose, which was the original finish on the series vehicles. Although modern "cellulose" is not really the same as what was used in the Seventies and Eighties and also prior to that.
Or are you really talking about modern cellulose, which is described as a "synthetic enamel" ? This can be polished if required.
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1 hour ago, Arjan said:
Mr. George White could be of help.
But it will cost €€€I hope to get a roof some time this Summer this way.
Last year I could have collected it easy enough, but that @~!$%@$$^& virus killed that.
Now with the UK out of the Customs Union, things are even worse.
Bon Couarage !
Arjan, I have sent you a PM
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WTF ??? Now thats scary. Looks like in has been run flat for 20 miles.
I think that overall, the answer to the OPs question is YES, you do need a spare !
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I did exactly the same with my Renault Master, but with bubble wrap stuffed into the turbo inlet ................. to stop carp getting in !!!
Most of it stopped at the intercooler, which I cleaned out. Didnt strip any further, and it has been fine since.
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I thought I had made it clear ? Obviously not.
19 minutes ago, reb78 said:Edit. I read it in the last year. It was posted 7 years ago
Where does the time go eh ?
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£50 k ? 😲 WTF
DIY I reckon £7 to £8k tops. Be generous and say £10k
3 blokes 3 weeks, OK again be generous say 4 weeks on £1k a week each.
Nice profit margin.
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Yes you can .................
BUT. The gear lever will be in the wrong place, so you would have to alter the tunnel/seat box
To get the gear lever in the right place, you need the adaptor kit. Or swap the selector shaft, yoke, and lever tower from your old R380 box.
Or buy new parts of course.
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Jubilee type clips or OK on BIG hoses 80mm plus, but I always use the spring type now. I dont like what jubilee clips do to the hoses when the hose is crushed up like a sweet wrapper and one of my pet hates if the long excess "tail" you get. Looks so bodgy, and right up there with lashings of blue Hylomar IMO.
Spring clips look better anyway, and the fact that all manufactures use them now as OE tells you something
However, you have to be careful what you buy. Some of those on ebay are light duty.
I always buy Mikalor heavy duty W1 type. Thicker and stronger so last longer. I also help myself to a selection of OE ones when I go to a scrapyard.
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
If you transplant the whole dash yes - the binnacles and dash top are different though, so you can't just swap the instruments across easily.
Well yes. That is what I meant. I assumed he meant the whole dash including the MUCH nicer dash top of the series 3. Great to put things on !
My favourite is the really early series 3 top with the full width windscreen vents.
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I have fitted a couple of series 3 dash to 90s (pre Defender) and it all physically fitted as far as I can remember. Wiring was easy to sort out. I dont think a TD5 or Puma would be easy regarding the wiring.
Why on earth would you want a rev counter ? They are a waste of time on anything other than a performance car. Just eye candy on everything else.
The sonic rev counter tells you all you need to know !
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And guess what I have been doing this afternoon ........................
Got a plaintive phone call from M-i-L, she is 79. Had a flat tyre in local Sainsburys car park. She got the tools and spare out of the boot herself, but because of the knees and hips, couldn't get down enough to place the jack, bless her. So she called the orange van breakdown service. They said there was no one local, and the wait would be about three hours. She doesn't like playing the frail old lady card, or being a burden. (pride eh ?) NOT ONE person offered to help her in the busy car park, hence the call to me.
So, I loaded a trolley jack , breaker bar and sockets etc, and off I went. Its about 5 miles. Undid the nuts, which were stupidly tight, and jacked up the car, its a two year old Kia Venga with alloy wheels. Could I get the wheel off the hub ? No chance. Corroded solid to the hub. So came back here, dropping her off at home with her shopping.
I collected axle stands and my big Thor hide hammer and some blocks of wood, and the afterthought small sledge hammer, and went back. I lifted it on axle stands and got the jack out of the way, and started beating the wheel off from behind with the hide hammer, but it still wouldnt come off. So then placed a wooden block against the inside of the rim, lay on the floor with the sledge hammer, and after a few blows it shifted. At last. Space saver on, and tools back in the car. I will go later to rescue the car when SWMBO comes back from shopping.
Not a trace of anti seize grease on the hub, wheel, or studs from new. I dont think the wheels have been off before. I thought greasing the wheel hubs when alloy wheels are fitted should have done from new, and/or is part of service schedules ?
Again, good job there was a spare. Also, anti seize your hubs and wheels, another thing that can save a lot of grief !
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TDV8 auto into a defender 110
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Wibble wibble wibble. You guys have lost me with all this speaking in tongues, and now Ive got a headache. I couldnt learn any of this stuff due to lack of Gorm.
With respect, If it really is that easy, why has none of the great and good done it ? Surely it would be popular conversion ?
Im sure you would all be better off cobbling up a gearbox controller for my ZF 4HP24 😆