smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Would have though standard Disco 1 later serp V8 would do you ?
Maybe the steeering box end will be metric and yours Imperial ? Dunno
I have got a set here and i will be coming through the tunnel tomorrow morning.
PM sent
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I wonder if anyone out there knows any of the answers ?
Firstly, I cant seem to find the torque converter stall speeds of either the RRC fitted with a 3.9 V8 and a 4HP22, or a RR P38 with a 4.6 V8 and a 4HP24. Any ideas ?
Also, I am familiar with the TC spacer and extra plate fitted to the RRC and others, but have never really thought this was great idea and a bit of a lash up, but I have seen P38 TCs, and some seem to use a smilar method, but some seem to have some sort of "top hat" arrangement to space the TC away from the flex plate instead. Is this just a different method of achieving the same thing, or is a different sort of gearbox, although they all seem to have the same bellhousing ?
The ZF is also fitted indexed, or twisted clockwise if you like, any ideas why this was done ? It doesnt look like it was ever necessary in order to clear something !
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I know how you feel. Yesterday I thought I would QUICKLY remove my 90V8 engine to test fit its replacement...............
Thanks to the PO, or more likely the garage he used, almost every bolt is odd sized, or siezed. I wanted to preserve the exhaust for now, so in oreder to facilitate its removal without cutting it, I tried to remove the gearbox crossmember...................
Could I move it ? No chance. Then it started to hail, so cant carry on for the moment. When I went back out, I was looking under the bonnet pondering my next move when I noticed WHY I couldnt move it.
Some stupid c**t has run a weld along the top upper edge on one side. WTF is THAT all about ? Now I think the only way I will be able to get at it is to remove the seatbox and that it entails.
FFS
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Tensioner or idler pulley I would guess, and my theory is that once the bearings in these start to wear, their alignment goes slightly out of kilter, and causes a bit of belt shuffle, which is what you can hear normally...............If that make sense ?
Its normally a chirp chirp chirp noise, and seems to get better once things have warmed up ?
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Slave cylinder corroded internally, and not letting piston return ? Jump hose breaking up inside giving a one way valve effect ?
For the sake of 40 quid I would change the lot !
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Your joking. That tyre is nowhere near new or unused. Look at the tread roots, and the side lugs AND the sidewall at the bottom of the picture. That has been seriously rubbed against a kerb or something, and the nicks and lumps out of it and the way the tread is worn suggest to me it has had some serious use.
The tread depth looks a fair bit worn from new too..........................
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Sorry, thought I HAD mentioned usage, but looking again I omitted that bit..................
Will be mainly road going with only a bit of bumping up kerbs a bit of green lane stuff, but nothing serious. But then, who knows ?
I will be running it behind a 1UZFE Lexus in a 90. At least thats the plan, but more on that later. I will start a thread in the readers wives section when I get round to it !
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Britpart Radiator -leaked from a pipe join to the end tank from new, took it out and put it in the garage, brother threw a bit of metal at it and punctured it so no return
Their swivel kits are an absolute JOKE.
I heard from my local dealer that the plastic end tanks are prone to bursting................
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Thanks for the info guys.............all very interesting stuff, but I am still no further forward with my choice
I like the idea of the BW unit because although I have never actually driven a vehicle with one installed, I understand that they are supposed to be smoother and quieter, which hopefully will suit my engine conversion better.
I know the viscous unit can be temperamental and the chain can wear, but I sort of like the idea of the fully automatic action.
The other thing I like about it though, is that is does not seem to suffer from input gear spline problems or wear out the main gearbox mainshaft splines either.
The other question I have about them is.............Does long periods of idleness affect the VC at all, or must it be excercised regularly ?
All this talk of unreliability is a concern though, what with that and the sprag problems with ZF autoboxes is making me think I ought to go manual.......................
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Like I told you already, you need to put a Diesel in it!!!
Just ignore him, hes obviously a bit misguided
I would imagine the engine is a bit tired though, but of course you do not know what has been done to it. A mini rebuild is cheap enough, as is a replacement engine, athough having said that, it will likely be tired too.....................
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I rent a lock up garage to keep mine in, although being only small its heavy duty and fully galvanised, I prefer it to be out of the weather and also away from prying eyes who might want to make better use of it elsewhere.
Garage is handy for storing other stuff in too, like several engines and gearboxes and doors that I dont need
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I know this probably been done to death, but the search facility doesnt seem to be working well for me.
As it says in the title, WHY would you choose one over the other ? Strength ? Reliability ? Noise ? Etc. pros and cons ?
I know the BW unit does not offer easy any fairly inexpensive ratio changes, but apart from that.
Opinions please .....................
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But what actually causes them to fail in the first place ? Or is it just general wear ?
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Seems logical to me to, although any electrical system can be a bit overwheming as a whole. So break it down into parts
I find it helps to first work out the best place for your fuseboxes/modules/components, then just think about one circuit at a time. Run each cable but dont fix it permanently until you are all done and happy with it. Try to take into account what vehicle mods you might make later and take them into account with your routing.
That way, if you make a mistake, you can change it easily
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I saw one years ago that had a flange welded to the intake of a 2.25NAD inlet. It seemed to work OK too, although I dont know how well ! The carb itself was one half of a pair from an old Jag
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Whats wrong with emptying them all into a couple of old Quality Steet tins or similar, in time honoured fashion
i remember my dad doing this when I was a kid in the Sixties...................Oh the swearing
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No, it isnt. i have EXACTLY the same box here and wanted to do the same. Not got round to it yet as I have to check the parts book, but while the remote will go straight on, you will definately need a new quadrant thingy, and possibly a selector shaft, but as i said, I have to check.
Other than that, piece of cake to do.
Gearbox must be out of the vehicle though
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I didnt say anything about it affecting performance. It most certainly affects longevity reliability and wear though. It all about wrong geometry pushing the valve sideways excessively and wearing the valve stems and guides, and if you move the rocker pivot point in relation to the valve stem (which is what shims do) this will be the result. Dont get me wrong here, it will work fine............for a while, but in the long term it will be causing premature wear.
We ARE in fact talking about inclined valves, athough that has nothing to do with it as such.
A race engine will be using solid lifters so preload is not even an issue, in this case the adjustable pushrods are adjusting valve clearance. Yes, I know some "perfomance" engines use hydraulic cams, but they are not really "race" engines, which operate at much higher RPM, and the higher RPM and the oil pressure it creates is what causes lifters to "pump up" and hold valves open, as they are operating beyond their design limits. Even more so if the builder has "uprated" the oil pump or relief valve.
While I agree that 15k is not enough milage to comment on a camshaft without actually measuring it, a good guide it to remove the rocker covers with the engine running (as the OP has done) and see if the pushrods are spinning, as indeed they still are. If there is any significant wear some (or one) will be spinning at a different rate or not at all.
However, my point is that for the money spent, its fine. You can easily spend £400 - £500 on a genuine or perfomance cam and lifters plus the chain and sprockets, but how long do they last ? A genuine one will be starting to show signs of wear after 40 to 50k, if you are lucky, and a perfomance item ? Who knows ? But I would put money on it that you couldnt find anyone who can HONESTLY say, and be able to prove it, that they have had 100k out of one with no wear showing.
And another thing, nowhere in any genuine Rover/ Land Rover workshop manual will you find ANY reference to shimming . Not that I have ever seen anyway...............although I am always happy to eat a large slice of humble pie !
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I have not had real problems with them either, and that includes discs, calipers, a clutch, Rover V8 cam and followers...............
The only things that come to mind as being carp, was wiper blades.
I wouldnt fit their filters though, but only because I believe in good filtration by only a couple of manufacturers.
IMO a lot of people out there who moan about them, do not have any direct experience themselves, only what they have heard or read somewhere, and lets not forget, there are also a lot of people out there who have no real idea what they are doing.
Also, what do you REALISTICALLY expect for a fifth of the price (or less) than genuine ?
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Using shims to "correct" lifter preload is completely and utterly the incorrect way of doing it in any case, It bu&&ers up the valve geometry, assuming Rover got it right in the first place....................
It will only be necessary if the head/s have been skimmed, seats recut and valve stem length not corrected, or an aftermarket regrind go faster cam has been fitted which has a smaller base circle.
Assuming the valve geometry was correct in the first place, the only correct way to do it, is to alter the pushrod length. In the US, engine manufacturers, (Ford GM etc) would offer a range of different length pushrods for this very purpose. Unfortunately, the only option for the Rover V8 is adjustable pushrods.
Personally, I wouldnt bother with either. Just avoid reground cams
Another thing.........I would not recommend fitting a Britpart camshaft and followers because "THEY" say that they are no good, although I have, and it still seems to be OK after 15k
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Its a traditional Rover V8 ATM
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Vehicle has no damage, and all mounts and brackets are fine.
Taking the side of the LH chassis as a datum point, and measuring from that to the centre ot the transfer box cover, then measuring from the same side rail to the centre of the crank pulley, the measurement is 33mm LESS at the front..
Maybe some of you guys could nip out and measure yours ? Measurements will not be exactly the same due to production tolerances, but it will give me the idea.
I only measured it because I am considering centering up the engine in the chassis in order to fit my new to me 1UZFE Lexus engine.
Ideally, any Hookes type joint UJ shaft should run straight, but none of them on Land Rovers do this anyway, so its not really an issue. I am surprised though, that they have never used CV joints in the propshafts. This would have solved all articulation problems and caused no vibration either. Also stronger as I understand it. I can only think that it was because they are vunerable and keeping the dirt out would be a problem on an off roader.
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Not noticed before, but as you no doubt aware, the engine/gearbox on a 90/110/Defender is offset from the vehicle centerline to the LHS..............
Was measuring up this evening at noticed that it is also at an angle too............slightly to the diagonal if you see what I mean. As I said, never noticed this before, but is this right ?
If so, I assume its for clearance between the front axle and engine sump. cant see any othe reason
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Looks like the engine has been lifted out and dropped on the sump !
You would never had know that the dipstick had ever seen any oil either !
Hope you got you money back
Bellhousing bolts
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
Bellhousing to engine ? Or bellhousing to gearbox ?