smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Looks like the engine has been lifted out and dropped on the sump !
You would never had know that the dipstick had ever seen any oil either !
Hope you got you money back
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Sorry Cheesy I do not know the answer to your question.
I would also like to know why one would choose one transfer box over the other.............................
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Jad. Would you mind PMing me how much it was ?
I might be needing one shortly, or making my own !
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Toyota box looks expensive...............Is that the Landcruiser sump assy ?
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Assume you mean pushrod is NOT turning like the other 7 ?
The cam peak has a slight slope on it to make the lifters turn. If it is not turning either the cam lobe is wiped out or the lifter has collapsed or the face worn off. take the lifter out (if you can) and look at the face. If you cannot get the lifter out because the cam end is belled out, it will have to come out downwards when the camshaft is out. Which will mean the camshaft has had it.
I have found the cam lobes most likely to fail first are the 6th and 7th one back on the LH bank (looking from behind)
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I cant believe that you lot are such dimwits......................I despair.
The sprag clutch prevents the epiglottal wobbler shaft from being driven backwards, thus breaking the gangle trumpet spigot.
There.......now you know. Now you really DO know everything. Just like me !
Or in simpler terms, its a freewheel device. You know if you ride a bicycle and stop pedalling, the pedals stay still and the rear wheel still turns. You can hear the clicking of the pawls or balls. Thats a sprag clutch. Sort of.
Some bearing races only work one way and lock when you try to turn them backwards. Not sure how they work though,
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As they have said, you need a Range Rover/Disco V8 flywheel which is much thicker which is correct for your conversion and will solve your problem.
HOWEVER, the RR type flywheel uses a 10.5 inch clutch assy which will NOT fit inside the series bellhousing. It will have to be redrilled to take a 9.5 inch clutch from a series 3.
DO NOT TRY TO USE AN OLD COIL SPRUNG CLUTCH COVER.
RR type flywheels a ten a penny (almost) but the SD1 flywheel should fetch at LEAST £50 if not more, so it should cover the costs.
Of course none of this is gonna get done quickly. You could extend the pivot ball as a temporary measure. I have seen it done, but it puts the release bearing near the end of its travel, and WILL fail, so I wouldnt recommend it
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What about fixing some plastic trailer mudguards up inside the arch................or even some HGV type things.
I have got some small trailer ones here ehich have a flat top and could be fixed to the ribs in the wheelarches. These ones are too small for the job, but I have seen bigger ones
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Blue box oil filters.............along with a few others, either do not have at all, or do not have an effective anti drain valve.
WHEN will you people ever learn ? The oil filter is one of the most IMPORTANT items on your engine. For the sake of an extra few Pounds/Euros or whatever every now and then, why even THINK about risking major and expensive damage to your engine, or wearing it out prematurely ?
That goes for diesel filters too..................
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It DOES matter what way round the conrods are. And the pistons.
The conrod and caps are numbered, and the number is on the same side as the bearing shell tags (both tags should be on the same side) and all these should be on the right hand side when looking from the rear and the block up the right way.
The pistons have arrows on the crowns which should point to the front.
Its a long time since I have looked at one of these, but I am sort of thinking that the conrods have some sort of offset front to back..................
Only other thing could be that the cap or rod mating faces have been ground or filed in an attempt to take up slack in old bearings ? In which case the only solution would be to trim the shells themselves....................
No one would do this nowadays though............would they ? Not unless one were marooned in Africa or something. Mind you, it IS a Land Rover, and there for the bodging
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You say LARGE quantities...............so most likely to be the head gasket or oil cooler in the rad.
Did the guy use a new gasket one wonders ? Did he do the bolts up ?
On reflection, I would look at the rad first. This is why oil to water coolers are bad news !
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Swap the smaller 90 spring seats over and thats it....................IIRC
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The resistor is NOT part of the system, and nor are those relays with a moulded on mounting lug either. Unless someone has used them to replace something else ?
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Got mine inclusive with my insurance at NO extra charge. I only want the vehicle brought home too, and three years ago the clutch failed on my old Astra while I was at Pickering in Yorkshire, and it was brought home to Kent in one hit.
The recovery vehicle was a subbie to Green Flag, and from my call to their arrival was.....................18 minutes !
And it never cost me a penny.
I gave up with the RAC after I had to wait nearly five hours in the cold
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Bosch Hitachi and Dewalt are nothing like they once were..................
Longest lasting one I ever had was a Black and Decker, had it twenty plus years and it only broke after it got run over. This was the day before the turn of the Millenium. Bought a blue Bosch to replace it,as it should last years, but in line with most overrated and overpriced German stuff, it lasted until March 2001. Just over a year.
Replaced it with a Milwaukee because it was on special, and its superb.
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Doesnt the Aussie military version use an Isuzu engine ?
I do NOT know whether it uses the same gearbox mounting points as the models here in the UK. But assuming it does.......
All you have to do is.................
Unless they are the same ? Cut off the engine mounting pads/brackets from your Disco chassis. Remove the redundant ones, and weld the Disco ones in the same position as they were in the Disco chassis.................
Bolt in the Engine gearbox complete, using the Land Rover gearbox to chassis mounts and crossmember.
It really is that easy.
Connect everything up with standard parts.
You will need a whole new exhaust though. I can give you details of which parts depending on which crossmember and whether you will be using cats.
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I think the weather has a lot to do with it too.......................
Have been trying to get me V8 running properly for months now. I KNOW its going to be the newish Piper camshaft that the previous owner installed, but I keep faffing about with bits and pieces and getting nowhere..............
When I was young I would think nothing of changing clutches etc while laying on snow, but as I have got older my enthusiasm has waned, or maybe its the flesh getting weak, but as soon as the weather takes a turn for the better, it will improve again.
Its always best to walk away for a while !
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Ah, but whose fault was that ?
I also think they are a different profile from A section, with a different angle V.
I worked for a long time at the agricultural merchant mentioned by Nigel W, and we always used to helping people out with oddball stuff they could not get anywhere else, and it IS a bugbear of modern shopping when you go into a specialist shop and you know more than they do........................
Bearing stockist as people have said is usually the answer, but i doubt if even they stock all sizes nowadays.
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Most companies that sell online here will post overseas no problem, so could order online. Also you not have to pay our VAT (I think)
Stick to either Gates or Dayco kits, and if it goes wrong, its probably your fault !
Rimmer Bros are a good choice of supplier, they tend to be a little more expensive than most, but they will NOT try to swindle you, like some of the independents.
Having worked in the parts industry, I can tell you that "OEM" or Original Equipment Manufacturer, does not mean what most people seem to think it does. It is rather ambiguous and is open to interpretation.
It means that the manufacturer (unspecified) of an item, make original equipment for someone, somewhere. It does NOT mean that they make that particular item for that particular manufacturer. It also does NOT mean that the item is the same specifcation as a genuine parts item, but in a different package.
However, provided that the manufacturer of the item is quality company, and the supplier is happy to tell you who the manufacturer is before you buy, then no problem.
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Slate Grey.........................its the only one you need
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Seems a fairly straightforward question to me.................just to make sure you are getting the right thing, and whether it is a pair or just one ?
OK. if you want to be pedantic, you could ASSUME the description "BUSH" means just one, and "BUSHES" means more than one (set pair or whatever) but I have found that this is not always so.
So whats wrong with checking FFS ? How could you be offended/upset/irritated by that ?
If its avoids confusion or disappointment for the customer, and more hassle for you later, whats the problem ?
Or have you omitted something George ?
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Its hard to tell against those comparison photos, because the test machine is holding the injectors open. NOT pulsing them. And the higher the fuel pressure applied the better the spray pattern looks
I have seen this at first hand and it IS difficult to determine with the injectors on the vehicle. Electric petrol injectors do not "Mist" like a diesel one does, as the pressures are MUCH higher.
Its does actually look more like an "even, slightly conical jet, with a fairly coarse spray".....................if that makes sense, but not too far spread out. But its very hard to see in situ because it happens too quickly.
if they are all actually working, might pay to get the professionally cleaned in any case ?
Another thing.......You DID get the fuel feed and return pipe round the right way when you did the regulator ? This kept a mate and myself happily entertained for hours a while back.......................
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To be honest, I'd just change the oil again in another 500 miles and see how you go from there. Even healthy units have swarf on the magnetic chips when they get frequent services. Jet engines have magnetic plugs and chip detectors - all machinery does it.
Like Snagger says, change the oil again in 500 miles. Clean the filter too. If it works OK ATM I am confident it will be fine.
Everything mechanical will fail in the end anyway, its just a matter of time, and everything that you can you can think of that is regarded as reliable, will break down in the end.
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If you have a look on the container, there is normally a printed (very small) in dot format a packing date. The shelf life varies from each manufacturer, but normally five years. Check their website.
I dont personally think its too much to worry about though.............within reason, but give it a good shake !
Engine alignment ?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Not noticed before, but as you no doubt aware, the engine/gearbox on a 90/110/Defender is offset from the vehicle centerline to the LHS..............
Was measuring up this evening at noticed that it is also at an angle too............slightly to the diagonal if you see what I mean. As I said, never noticed this before, but is this right ?
If so, I assume its for clearance between the front axle and engine sump. cant see any othe reason