smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Two post lifts are great for some things, but a lot of the time they are a nuisance. Sometimes in the way of what you are trying to do on the vehicle, and when not being used they are just in the way. Plus sometimes downright dangerous. Four posters are much safer, but are of limited use if you are doing suspension work, or body off stuff.
I like the idea of a scissor lift, as it leaves a completely free workspace when not in use, and lets face it, no matter how big your workshop, you NEVER have enough space. For example, my Brother in Law has a barn that you could fit a Boeing 747 into (almost), if it were empty, but its unusable for a workshop as it is choc full of carp and projects that will never happen.
With the scissor lift, you can lift vehicles up, using placed wooden blocks to suit if necessary, and hold bodies up with tall axle stands, or a pulley system off the steel building frame, OR, more usefully IMO, a large wheeled gantry, which can be moved around to suit. It could have a few crossmembers to suit, using either chain hoists, or the electric versions. This I think would be far more versatile, as although it is still taking up space, at least you can move it around.
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Another thing to consider, is that you say the biggest thing you want to lift is a 110. But is it ? You say that now, but in the future you may become a LWB Sprinter van or Motorhome enthusiast.
My point is, dont make the space too custom if at all possible.
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To be clear, did you buy it as damaged, and repaired it, or did you buy it as cat D and already repaired ? If it is already classed as cat D, it must have been a few years ago, as cat C and D has not been used since 2017, so if recent, it would be a cat N.
What is the timeline with this ? I cant see why the Police would be interested, unless you have had a roadside stop, and they have found something not right.
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Missed this first time around. That pulley does look mighty familiar, the actual pulley part, not the front bit that has been welded, but I cannot remember what it was fitted to.
Whatever it came from would be quite old, as it looks like the early narrow belt. Might even be off a four cylinder. or a LDV Sherpa V8.
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Check the breather system too. Could cause some crankcase pressure, and that will not help.
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As this is unsigned, like so many things on internet forii, I can only conclude this is the dubious opinion of one individual, claiming an erroneous majority view, so therefore should be viewed with caution, as there may be underlying malicious intent.
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Seems ridiculously expensive to me. Changing the standard one is not that difficult.
The main problem with this though, is that a thermostat "in line" like this, requires a flow of water to it (bypass) for it to work. As this effectively blocks a hose how it any hot water going to get to the thermostat capsule ? I would hope it has a bypass channel or at the very least a jiggle pin.
Before buying, I would check with the seller.
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3 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:
Best season's greetings to all. Today I've had minor knee surgery so I will be working it for all I'm worth. Should be good for at least a couple of days of leg up, but not over, and waited on hand and knee.
Good luck with that ! You would not be cut any slack here, not unless you had fur and four legs ....... or in the case of our cat, three legs.
Happy Christmas to all !
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Another thing that has come to mind from past experience .........
Has it got a flywheel on it ? If so check there is nothing like a piece of rag or a dead mouse stuck behind the flywheel between it, and the housing.
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On 12/19/2022 at 8:31 AM, elbekko said:
Can't imagine what your lungs look like...
Indeed. Seriously Stephen you should be doing yourself a favour and wearing a mask or breathing apparatus.
Friend on mine worked on Naval ships in Chatham Dockyard years ago, but never smoked, and he is in a bad way now.
Squeak groan squeak groan squeak groan.
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11 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties.
Mike
I have just done this on an old Fordson engine. It was a little bit stiff to turn over and had very little compression (this is a story in itself ending with no eyelashes and eyebrows) but it worked. Left for a week, it started almost immediately, and now had lots of compression.
However, I do not like disturbing the injectors or seals, so always apply the ATF with a syringe and piece of pipe via the inlet and/or exhaust ports after removing the manifolds.
Did you try turning it over during the rebuild ? Was it stiff then ? Rebuilt or new engines are harder to turn than well used ones.
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14 hours ago, JeffR said:
My favourite GPS:
Hardware:
Not so software:
Got me coat and leaving quickly.....
My favourite also. I believe that anyone who cannot read a map, should not be allowed out on their own.
Still to much tech to go wrong though, your pen could dry up, and you might lose your specs ....... or sit on them !
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What sort of RPM is the engine turning when this happens ? If it is getting down to 12 - 1300 RPM it will be doing exactly what TSD has suggested.
My little diesel Combo van will do this, when I get down to about 18MPH in third and fourth, coasting either on the flat or slightly downhill, and what make it even worse is that the jerking makes your foot move slightly on the throttle pedal. It is overgeared though, as I changed the gearbox and diff. Did not do this before.
For me, the solution is to change down a gear. This is another reason I love Autos !
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ISTR a bleed nipple, like the ones on brake calipers on the top cover of the steering box ? Maybe not all had them.
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Again I guess this is for the M57 installation ? I dont know what exact model you are fitting it to, but be aware that the TD5 rad fits direct to the front crossmember as it is slightly taller than the older types, and does not sit on top of two brackets. You will need the intercooler too, and the standard TD5 one will be fine, unless you want to do a huge power increase.
Personally, I see these Ali radiators as unnecessary bling. A Nissens/Valeo/ERF etc will be better quality AND will have a guarantee that can actually be claimed.
I also hate gaily coloured silicone hoses
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What about tie beams at the TOP of the posts, forming a square, not diagonally, hopefully obviously. Bolt them if possible.
Then just weld some bar between the four bases.
Another good solution would be to sell it to me for 100 Euros, delivered 😁 Save all that bother.
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1 hour ago, Snagger said:
That’s a though that brings me much pleasure.
Not nearly as much as it does me !
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Cheapest option would be a four pin diff centre.
You should hang your head in shame converting to diesel (or a bigger diesel) at this time.
Mr Kahn t will be choking on his breakfast. And the fumes.
Using the 6HP26 I guess ? If you have not bought the gearbox already, dont make the mistake of buying one from a car. You need one from an X5 or X3.
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You should only be using neutral cure silicone sealers on mechanical stuff anyway. This does NOT contain acetic acid (Acetoxy cure) which is really only meant for building applications. It is also cheaper, and does not adhere as well as neutral cure stuff to metals.
All proper RTV silicone sealers for automotive use are neutral cure, except blue Hylomar which was Acetoxy, (smells of vinegar) last time I smelt it, which TBH was years ago.
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Also, a product like Radweld or Barrs Leaks can cause this. I would avoid using it at all costs, except in a dire emergency. Like stranded in central Africa for example.
I have found that using it will ultimately end up costing more than a tow home.
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24 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
You need to be sitting down when you view the price list, more expensive than a galvanised chassis !!!
Regards Stephen
I must confess that I could not even consider it. I would want the rest of the Land Rover with it for that sort of money.
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33 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Are you sure? I thought JB weld was one of those super-useful fixes that's also almost always the wrong answer for whatever it's used for?
To be honest Fridge, it has been the right answer for whatever I have used it for. It has always exceeded my expectations.
I wouldnt use it for anything structural, but I cannot think of anything that I have used it for, and it has failed. The automotive things I have used it for include are gluing a mounting lug on a gearbox bellhousing, building up a thermostat housing and water outlet, sleeving up a steel hose outlet to take it from 14mm to 19mm using a bigger tube. Sticking a broken alternator mounting lug on a tractor. All have been done a few years despite me expecting them to fail.
I have pieced together a 75 year old toilet pan with it, including under the water line, handle on a saucepan, handles back on broken mugs.
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I dont know if you are all aware of this company, so apologies if you are. Might be an option for some, but with values appearing to be falling, could be a non starter.
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Clean and key the surfaces and JB weld. Make sure any porting is done first though, as they will be extremely difficult to remove afterwards.
Mr Kahn t will be choking on his breakfast. And the fumes.
2023
in International Forum
Posted
Yes. Happy new Year to all. Still can't believe where 2022 went though !