smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Do it properly to avoid disappointment !
I installed a Webasto 5Kw parking heater ex BMW in my 04 plate Combo van a few years ago, which was primarily to defrost the windows, and get the coolant temperature up before starting. If you are not aware, it starts and heats the coolant circuit, then when it gets up to 30 degrees, which is does after a couple of minutes, and switches on the heater blower and warms the car inside. It works a treat and I would not be without one now.
I do not really see the point of "just" an air heater, unless it is a living and sleeping vehicle, as you may as well have the engine heating facility.
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16 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Difficult for me to swap the wiring out - it’s buried under the garden and plastered into the walls in the house …
It goes from the house consumer unit to another mini consumer unit in the garage - then to normal plug and socket, but wired with 2.5mm throughout. I could hard wire it in though.
I think the compressor comes with a normal plug … so I’d assumed they are quoting peak figures at 3kw?
I know what you mean about not quoting FAD - I think Clarke aren’t on their own with that. All the hobby ones seem to do it.
I can see that changing the wiring would be a problem, and might earn you a handbagging ! I am surprised that they would put a three pin plug on it, as at 3Kw it is on the limit of domestic sockets All the given ratings are continuous, so the wiring should be OK, but I would definitely hard wire it if it were me, as the fuse in the plug is a weak point. Then your RCD is giving a better value. Or use one of those blue industrial type plugs and socket, which have no fuse.
If you did decide to upgun the supply cable, I would go for at least 10mm SWA, as it would cost very little extra, and I like overkill where electrical is concerned.
I see that the proposed compressor is 2m tall. I guess it would have to be fixed to the floor, as it might be a bit top heavy.
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I like that mirror/ camera setup. Could do with that in my van for reversing, as the mirrors are weird.
Is that camera supposed to be mounted externally though ?
What about a foam or rubber ring gasket with double sided moulding tape to surround the lens, thus isolating it from the condensed air. Might work, or might be a total fail. High level brake lights have this sort or gasket arrangement, and do not seem to suffer with condensation.
A slice of central heating pipe insulation might work ?
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15 years ? Blimey, my Broomwade was made in 1975 ! I did think about replacing it about ten years ago, but in the end kept it, as what was generally available seemed rather lightweight in comparison. I do not use it much though, as I have a little hand held one that I use most of the time for airline and type pumping.
What annoyed me about Clarke is their quoted air displacement, which is always the piston displacement (bore x stroke x pump RPM) rather than the free air displacement, which is the actual useable value. Also, most manufacturers now use those cheap black switch/unloader valve with the pull up red knob instead of a proper Direct on Line "Condor" unit. The only ones I have come across are rated at 20 amp max and do not seem to last very long.
I assume your spur is hard wired, and not on a three pin domestic plug ? The 20 amp RCD might trip on cold startup, so might need replacing with a higher value, as you probably know that most electric motors pull 3 times their rating at start. The supply cable should be OK at 2.5mm but I would be inclined to replace it with 4.0mm just to be on the safe side.
Best practice is of course to depressurise and drain after use, but we only do this with new things until the novelty has worn off. I do not do this to the Broomwade. I leave it under pressure and drain it before I want to use it and occasionally during a session. Being tight, and mindful of the cost of electricity to pump up a big tank is rather wasteful I feel, but I guess it depends on how often it is used.
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I also would not bother with an Alisport rad. Series 3 one will be fine for your spec.
I see you state a 4.75 diff. I think you will find this too low, unless you want to a lot of serious off road work.
I used standard 3.54 diffs, even with a Fairey overdrive, and always found these to be fine, even for towing large trailers, so you might want to try it out first before spendy spending.
You will not have any problem with sump clearance. If going for distributorless front cover, you will also need the matching oil pickup pipe.
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Long time since I have done this to a series, got to 35 years plus, but using the Milner/Phillips kits and Vee belt 3.5 carb and a couple of 3.5 flapper Efi engines. Serpentine engines and 3.9s not affordable used at this time, as not been out long, and distributorless did not exist.
As far as I can remember, engine was on the level, and offset to LH side, about 2 inches, but do not recall actually measuring. Crank centre bolt more or less centralised in the front crossmember hole. I also seem to think the engine was mounted slightly diagonally as you have said ?
P6 3.5 exhaust manifolds were the thing to use if you could get them, but then I found the RR 3.5 Efi cast iron twin downpipe manifolds, front pipes, and Y piece would fit. I think the 3.9 Efi manifolds are the same, but downpipes (pre cat) are not.
Had to cut the nose off the water pump, so obviously no fan, but tack welded the pulley flange, just to be safe. This left about 3/4 inch between that, and the series radiator, which always coped with the 3.5 no problem. Never had the engine move forward enough to hit the rad, but always welded a "stop" on one of the gearbox mountings, just in case. Electric BMW fan in front of the rad, with sensor in thermostat housing.
Distributorless front end would be far better, and a no brainer really. You might even be able to keep the engine driven fan, but I am only guessing.
Remote oil filter, as this was less expensive than the Milner conversion.
LH footwell had to be modified, still have a template for this, somewhere.
As far as I can remember, everything else is just connections as you would expect.
Only problems I can remember is that the cabin heat in the summer, and snapping rear halfshafts. Always more economical than 2 1/4 petrol, Efi more so.
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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
We know Jesus drove a Honda but didn't like to talk about it:
“For I did not speak of my own accord” - John 12:49
Terrible grammar in the good book too. Should have been a capital "A"
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Are you sure about this ? I seem to remember that Moses ascended Mount Sinai in his Triumph. I don't think they mentioned which model though.
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I have run a few series (mainly series 3) behind Rover V8s, 3.5 and 3.9 and have never broken one, or a Fairey overdrive. Including towing some fairly heavy trailer towing on road. Only light use off road, that I guess would be described as Green Laning. This was back in the Eighties and early Nineties though, so they were easy and cheap to find, and probably a lot less worn than what you can get now.
I am fairly mechanically sympathetic though, You can break anything if you try hard enough !
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6 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Anyone here actually tried it? I really can't see how it helps as I thought the issue with ali is how quickly it wicks the heat away from the weld area. A bit of steel each side doesn't change that bit?
As I understand it, it is actually to increase the resistance, to intensify the heat in the contact area, or as you say, the heat is conducted away, as the ali has little resistance. Spot welding is a resistance welding process, which is why I wondered if steel electrodes would be any good.
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As Nonimouse says, this is common. Give it some squirt, maybe best left for a couple of days, as it has not been moved for a while, then give it some more and it should free. Some regular exercise is best.
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Always meant to but never got round to it. Unfortunately where I live now, the electricity supply is not up to it. My spot welder needs a dedicated 32 amp supply from the fuse box.
I have wondered if, instead of the sandwich, steel contacts would work.
My spot welder works really well on steel, but to make full use of one, you will end up spending a fortune on different arms.
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On 2/6/2023 at 1:27 PM, landroversforever said:
I thought the later engines lost the space for the distributor. Not that I'd want to take that backwards step.
They did. Thats why he will need a different front cover and distributor if using the Hotwire system in order to "save" money over an aftermarket management system.
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AFAIK Phillips and Millner stopped doing them years ago. Only available used now. Last set I saw for sale was asking £500. You need the adaptor plate and spigot bearing carrier, which is usually missing. ISTR there was a special release bearing carrier too, but that might have been for use with the Rover SD1 flywheel, which was thinner. Crankshaft has to be cut, and the oil filter ideally needs moving or the front axle can hit it. Kit came with engine mountings for the block, but they are not hard to make.
The RR 10 1/2 inch clutch cover will not physically fit inside the adaptor plate/series bellhousing, so flywheel had to be redrilled to take a 9 1/2 inch clutch.
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All 4.6 engines came with a 4HP24, and they are all electronically controlled. You can get round this by using something like Compushift, which is a stand alone programmable module, but its quite expensive (to me) and you may not want to spend that sort of money.
If so, you will want a hydraulically controlled 4HP22, which needs no electronics apart from the shifter switch. Beware though, as some 4HP22s are electronic.
The giveaway is the downshift (kickdown) cable. Electronic gearboxes do not have this.
All the 4.6 engines will need aftermarket engine management systems, unless you are going to convert to the old Hotwire system, or carburettor/s.
These systems will also need a different engine front cover and pulleys etc. Also an ignition distributor and coil.
It can be quite an expensive conversion, and not quite as simple as it seems !
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6 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Or, worse, to think with.
Though at three in morning, I wish I could think a lot less. Designing forges/ repair panels/ God knows what in my head....
Work space, and eating at the desk... Busy at work.
The only thing I see thats wrong in your photo, is the Tomato Ketchup. Yuk !
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Amen to that - sign of a sick mind I think!
My Brother in Law says having Land Rovers is a sickness.
He says that I am mad because I am making some weld in wheel adaptors for a tractor in order to use different size, and different make wheels.
This is while he has a Disco chassis upside down, changing all the rear suspension and axles to a twin spring setup to increase the load capacity, as it is to become a Disco Hi Cap tipping pickup !!!!
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6 hours ago, Gazzar said:
True, cluttered desk, cluttered mind. Applies to me!
Its true I guess, but it does oneself no good at all in the long run to have nothing to think about.
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This is great. Seems I am normal after all. One of my ex neighbours was appalled just because I had the Mini Digger parked in the dining room. I didnt want to leave it outside in case it was nicked.
I have just finished painting some brackets for a tractor in the lobby, not allowed to paint in the kitchen now because some dripped onto the washing in a basket.
There is vehicle related stuff everywhere indoors here, except for the bathroom. There are a pair of nearly new windowless side panels for a 90 in our bedroom, along with a brand new seatbox. Stuff on the dining table too. I really must get rid of some stuff, but just cannot bring myself to do it. Yet.
Luckily, SWMBO has horsey stuff around too. Very annoying as it makes the place look untidy.
Where I lived before, some neighbours got a petition up against my "car repair business". A man from the council came round about this, but after him telling me I couldn't do this from a domestic dwelling, blah blah, I said to him that if he would like to check with DVLA, he will find that all the vehicles here were registered to me, and had been for some time ! He closed his book, and went away. Turned out that this petition was instigated by a neighbour because I refused to weld up his wife's car.
When I was in the furniture business, I went into many homes that had no sign of human habitation. No boots or coats, no paperwork in sight, nothing at all on kitchen worktops etc. To me, this is not normal. I dont know how they do it. I can only conclude that have very dull lives.
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I believe the bolt pattern is the same, BUT on the M57 there is a "small" bellhousing, and a later larger one. The Ashcroft adaptor is for the earlier smaller type.
I know nothing about the petrol engine setups though, although ISTR reading something about the petrol engine/s being tilted at a different angle, but I have no idea if this was for a particular application, or petrol engines in general. Something else to consider !
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For what its worth, as the 2.5 NA and 2.5 Turbo (19J) use the same filter assy, IMO I would think that a K&N in the standard housing will be fine, being that most diesels, especially turbo, will be pulling more air than a 3.9, unless it is boosted. I did have the figures at one time, but now gone due to hard drive failures.
A bigger filter is of course better, as it will flow more air for longer between services. Manufacturers only do adequate, and the minimum they can get away with.
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I spoke to a man from Mahle about this years ago. The plastic deflector if to deflect and centrifuge away water/damp and large debris from hitting the filter medium at point of entry. The 300 Tdi was not out at this time, but the metal shielding will be for the same purpose. If the filter media gets wet, it is likely to break up and let water and large particles and grit through.
If you look at both filters, I think the 200 Tdi item is better, as a lot more of the element is exposed to the incoming air. Remember also that there is a lot of difference in the quality and amount of filter medium, and as I keep on saying, a cheap air filter (also oil and fuel) is a false economy.
Having said this, I use K&N air filters on all my stuff, except for the machines with oil bath filters, and have done for more than 25 years and hundreds of thousands of miles with no sign of trouble whatsoever. Even after a dunking.
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Looks like old red Hammerite to me, which was more of a pink, and has come off, just as Hammerite does when applied over unprepared surfaces.
As to why its painted red ? Well, why not ?
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I take it that its not in gear ?
1/1.2mm Cutting Discs
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I notice Dewalt do a diamond disc, which is supposed to last 30 times longer than a "normal" disc. They are 115mm though, 125mm is not very common. Good thing about these, is that as the disc is metal, it will not be broken by treading on it, which is what normally happens to mine. I am going to try one.
I use whatever is available at the time, but I do notice the cheapies wear out quicker, but I guess it is equalised by the cost.