the real muddy90

Great stuff! I had a look at the wing tops & there seems room for the servo, I remember my old 68 wings were straight & these have a cut out. I have copper pipe & a flaring tool so I'll make my own pipes. I couldn't see anywhere on the manifold or carb for a vacume pipe but a quick dig in the shed found a 34ich on an adapter with a vac take off. woohoo!

Just thought of summat else! a good spring will be a nice long one but soft too, but too many coils & it will bind up when compressed so go for one with around the same amount as standard but maybe +2"-+4".

70%(aspect ratio) of 305mm (width) = 213.5mm (sidewall height)x2 sidewalls= 427mm 0r just a smidge over 16 3/4" + 16" of rim gives nearly 33" give or take

Thanks chaps. Retro, I see what you mean about the tight bend on the bottom pipe. I take it the silver one in the pic is a bought pipe? The other concern I have about the servo is, I seem to remember when I did my old 68 v8 back in the early 90's I had to cut the top of the wing to get the servo to fit. It had lights in the grill but Caz's 2a has lights in the wings so not sure if this will make any difference to the design of the wing top. I don't want to cut it if I have to Where do I take the vacume pipe from the engine? Nothing there at the mo.

Thanks for the tip. We want to stay as standard as possible because it's quite a nice original truck.

I'd try & find a second hand servo/pedal box. Good point about the twin system, I hadn't thought of that. Do I just run the secondary to the rear & primary to the front via a 3 way block???

It can get quite complicated & you need to decide whether it will be ALRC or non alrc! Alrc will mean, no dislocating suspension & standard arms. A way around the dislocation is to have springs that are long enough to stop them & shocks that work in that favour along with turrets & mounts that give the required droop you need! (Sorry if that sounds confusing but I knew what I meant!!) Non alrc, you can do what you like. Red & whites are a police spec rrc spring so are heavier duty. You want as soft as possible & nice long shocks but not too stiff. I wouldn't go bigger that 235/85 as you'll lose steering & this is quite important! 205 is a good size if the trial sites aren't too rutted.

Hi all, I'm sure this must have been done like a million times before but..... (I did have a quick flick through the search box!) Caz's 2a swb brakes are pants! The wet trialing conditions make it virtually imposible to stop the old girl (the 2a, not caz!) Years ago I upgraded an 68 2a to run forward control front bakes, the 3" wide shoe variaty & that stoped the v8 nicely. I think that just going to lwb twin leading shoe fronts will do what we want as it's only a 2 1/4 petrol, & also fitting a servo would be a definate improvement. So..... I think I'll need; back plate, shoe's, brake cylinders, springs & drums. But anything else? What about the hoses? Anyone got parts? Or advice? Rog

Ron, I've had it up to 60mph mate when it was running better. I took the pick up out & checked that & I also presurized the fuel lines to check for leaks. The inline filter never fills up even if I disconect it. I think I'm going to have to have a good tinker. As if I haven't got enough to do.

The missus has a 1970 2a swb petrol. We've been trialing it this year & it goes quite well considering it's bog standard! On the road between 40=50mph it gets really 'jumpy' if I use too much throttle but is ok if I only use 1/4 throttle. It only does it in 4th. I changed the carb for a second hand 34ich which improved it to where it is now (drove like a pig before!)& have striped the dizzy. New fuel pump. I'm leaning towards the vacume advance perhaps? Any other ideas?

It's quite normal to use the v8 preasure plate & series friction plate. I wonder if the original builder used the v8 thrust bearing? Otherwise, could it be a series 2 one???

I believe the r380 & zf4hp22 (?) are the same length. Fit an auto to a 300 90 & the transfer box will be in the same place. You'll want a 200 adapter plate though as the 200 engine has a diferent rear crank seal carrier to 300s, the box's are the same. If you go for disco axles, they will take any single line brake caliper pre td5. I think I'm right in saying the bolt holes are all the same. Rear calipers are single line anyway.

Keep your eyes on ebay to find the newest sat copies, Firedragon sat's. They are radial & an exact copy unlike sag's etc. They aren't made any more but were made by a company in Wales. I found a set & currently trial on them. They are (as they always were) bloomin brilliant. You could always follow the flock & get simex copies baaaah

Bought a copy of TOR saturday, good report.

Where are all the pics & vids from the interclub Loads of spectators taking pics so what have you done with them? There are 2 vids from stage 4 Saturday on youtube, I'd really like to see some of stage 1 (the cliff!) especialy of CSW Sorry but I don't do wastebook

Andy, I haven't had any emails from our site (they normaly come to me) sorry. Our permit only allows road legal vehicles.

If there's nothing wrong with them, keep them & save your money by not buying something you don't really need. Just remember to turn them on now & again to get the oil round.

Ha!!!! Last year was just a warm up You're a sick b@#5*rd James Nice one mate.

It was Muddy Bottom, they had a few pages about them & thier trucks. Seems they are mostly the mashals & the guy that runs the site in the new forest. Looking at the trucks most would struggle in all fairness if last year is anything to go by but thats not to say they'd have had a great time & thoughrouly enjoyed themselves. Their loss

What about Muddy bottom, they have a team in Lrm!

Yeah it's prob doable?! I think you're making it hard for yourself though. The v8 & auto is a really long combination & will push the engine a long way forward. I doubt you'd be able to keep the series grill & the sump will prob clash with the front axle. I'd be more inclined to keep the series gearbox with the v8. Fabricate your own weld on mounts to match the disco axles to leaf sprung.

We bought a s3 that needed a lot of welding for £150 It has a sweeeet diesel & lovely gearbox. Plus an over drive. They are out there. Shame it's not tax exempt but you can't have everything.

Cheers Phil, That's actually a great help I have asked if the previous owner put a clutch in when he started rebuilding her but he said he didn't split the gear box/engine. That's not to say nobody else has! Gives me something to look for when I do get round to it.

I did toy with the idea of fabbing up a longer push rod for the slave cyl or putting the slave under the bracket. I don't think it would disengage the clutch plate any more though. I'm going to have to ask the guy we got it from if he did anything to the clutch.

There was an article in the early 90's in LRO (when lro was the only landy mag!) where they stripped the leaf springs down, cleaned them up & had them re tempered (is that the right phrase??) they were good as new in fact probably better than some of the new carp being sold. Might be an option?