the real muddy90

It does sound like a good alternatine doesn't it? I think that being water based it could give you problems. Is it hydroscopic when dry or totaly impervious to water? It won't stop rust like waxoil. Just seal it in. How does it react to oils when dry?

Good for you Nige I won't answer questions in text spk! Anyway........ back on topic I'd be interested to see a nicely set up & running Su conversion. The 34ich on the 2a is ****e! it runs nice but on a trial it's tempramental & will sometimes die just when I ask for power, leaving me having to beat it with a branch. It also kangaroo's on the road but I'm not convinced thats the carb.

You must be doing something wrong. My husky has never burnt a motor & I've had it about 9 years. It used to on the front of my 90 & came with a standard 2.5hp motor which I changed to a 4.6 warm motor because it would stall fairly easily. Now it sits as a center winch on my challange truck & I need more power so will be changing a few things. I wouldn't bother faffing about & just put a new 5.6hp bow 1 on it. It should pull really nice then.

My co driver tows us to events in his 4.6 P38 & averages 14mpg with 2 tons of challenge truck & kit & a twin axle ifor williams on the back.

Welcome to the club If When mine break again I will also be giving Mr Ashcroft a bell. Note to self, must drive faster & win said item on certain events.

Or this.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Defender-Internal-Roll-Hoop-Seatbelt-fixing-/170640137577?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27baf1dd69 although it looks like the stays are missing but you could make them.

I changed my rears for 'red & whites' police spec springs as I regulaly carry heavy stuff & towing my challenge truck. I want to change them again because it's no better at all. I will be looking for h/d standard hieght ones too.

I have a suplier near to me that will exchange full size argon light bottles for a full one for 20quid. No questions asked. I went there first time with no exchange so they 'didn't' sell me one for 25quid. & so I got a full bottle for 45 with no contract. Reckless... you must pass near them judging by your profile, pm me & I will pass on the info.

Nice job. The passenger footwell mod looks smart. Tip.... change the header tank for a sealed/presurized one like 90's etc or you'll be losing lots of coolant. The series style header tank is designed to be after the radiator cap & not part of the presurized system.

Chaps, this doesn't affect me but I thought I'd stick my nose in as one of my members is. Looking at the chart & going on what you are saying re being registered as an 'estate' will only exempt 90 sw surely? A factory 110 has more than 8 seats & will be classed as a minibus & will therefore be caught that way. "is the vehicle designed & constructed to have more than 9 seats?" YES! Will removing some seats & changing your v5 be enough to get round this? As page 5 only says "does the vehicle have more than 8 seats" The critical bit designed & constructed is missing! So in my eyes, it is not enough just to have your 110sw properly classified as an estate but need to sort the seating out. Unless you're lucky enough to have a factory designed & built 110sw with more than 8 seats but no more than 9 to make it a minibus! The stupid thing is that disco's & rangies with the same tdi & td5 engines are ok!

Lets face it, the roof only bolts to the cappings! Ok, & a few other places A series hard top is stronger than you'd think. The guy that bought my old 2a many many years ago, rolled it at a trial doing a full 1+1/4 roll & only broke one bit of glass (the interior mirror) a dented the rear top corner. I wouldn't recomend trying it though.

Ahhh, the start of a wonderful relationship! Quite a tidy early s3, is it tax exempt? I hope you keep the old girl standard & not ruin it by putting a tdi in it. I've got a 109 sat here with a 5 bearing engine if you get stuck

A military roll hoop (very broad term ) replaces the front standard hoop & has fixings for the seatbelt.

Right.... I have a disco front bar on my 90 because I fitted the disco drop arm. The old 90 steering bar is about 3" shorter than the disco one thats on there now. The 90 one has a longer end that goes onto the drop arm. & the old 90 bar is about 3" too long for the 2a. I recon you've got a 90 set (for standard 90 drop arm).

I love this idea My first car was a s2a which I put a rover p6 v8 (180ish bhp) into, but I went to ashcroft who used to do a lot of auto & gearbox conversions at the time. So I used an lt77 out of an sd1 with the short stick with ashcroft conversion to the s2a trans box with high ratio gears. The thing was scary fast (100mph)& trafic light gp's were a hoot It was scruffy with most of the ali showing through the paint. I think your problem if you want to be fast will be getting a fast gear change. A 380 or 77 has too long a throw to do propper quick shifts & you'll soon be left for dust. My short stick was really quick & slick.

There must be a few on here that have done 'spring over axle' conversions that have made them?

Then you're doing well in 3 years. I did 3 on one event! I get between 28-32v with my engine running, & I'm not that gentle on the motors but I don't go out to ruin them it's too bloody expensive. I also have to power out which they really don't like as I havn't got freespools. & no 12 option, thats for pussys

Just reading into what you say... You're switching 12/24v? via solenoids or a bowyer turbo box?

Hi Quedge, Hmm Why? You should have plenty of speed & power under normal circumstances so I guess you're competing. Over volting will make it faster but you might soon get bored of melting motors Twin motors won't improve no load speed but will just make it pull harder, so faster under load. Gigglepin do +25% top housing gears. I run these in my rear winch. But will work a single 12v motor harder. You'll have to do the usual giglepin mods too.

In the second picture you can see where you would bolt the Jate rings to the rear of the chassis. He still has lashing eyes bolted there which aren't up to the job. It says "terrafirma" on the picture, try one of there supliers! Tbh, a factory tow bar arrangement will protect your fuel tank.

I thought that 2b fc's had ENV axles?! Or am I thinking of the earlier 109?

They sound like es9000 shocks. Fronts are normally pin/pin & rear pin/eye. 9000's are a +2" & should work well with standard height turrets etc. Measure them compressed & it will give you an idea if you can fit lower turrets & mounts.

35" simex's come out about 34". Simex have more sideslope stability than boggers. Simex are crossplies & horrible on road. Aren't Insa's radial remould? The 36" tread pattern can be 'modified' to make it better than the 35" pattern

Sorry Ant I didn't spot your question. I don't know a manufacturer sorry. If you fit lower turrets it will give more droop & likely more dislocation but will be prone to bottoming out the shock on compression. Fitting extended bump stops will protect the shock but I think kinda defeats the object!

One last question, honest! What do I do with the shared clutch/brake reservior?