m&mv80

ok well that doesnt work , the vacuum changes when you brake, quagmire; what did you end up doing in the end? did you t into the servo hose or find somewhere else? and did it give a good reading? ive got it all up and running now but need to sort this so i can start playing, cheers martin

ive been looking at where to take the vacuum from for my mj install, having read this and various other threads i was going to T into the brake servo vacuum hose but whilst i was looking i noticed that on the servo housing there is a blanking plug, its on the opposite side of the servo to the hose inlet fitting but still on the front (hope that makes sence) does anyone know if this is still has the same vacuum and would be ok to use, it would be much easier to fit a hose tail here than a t piece in the hose, i know i could undo it and check but i wont be able to until at least the weekend and i was hoping someone here might know and maybe even done the same as i want to do. cant wait to get it all working thanks martin

mine was a 4 pin 24 spline till i took it out to fit a locker, not sure about the front though

nitromors paint stripper works on most gaskets, then just scrape off easily saving on elbow grease

they look like 4.7's rather than 3.5's to me

hi, i cant remember the exact spec of the pump but i think it is about 35cc and is run off the pto on the transfer box, im led to believe it is a superwinch item and was origionally fitted to a landrover cherrypicker, all piped in 1/2 inch hose and a manual spool valve it was the best mod i ever done as it totally transforms the winch martin

yep input shafts are different and i think the bell housing to, and yes the engine mounts will need to be moved you dont give much info, is it auto or manual? you will poss need to modify the fuel tank for a return and or remove the pump, depends what you got will need a diesel filter different rad and intercooler air box exhaust the wiring is pretty straight forward all depends how capable you are really

i think you mean what way around to fit the winch?? i fitted mine with the gearbox on the drivers side, cant remember why though, not sure if it matters to be honest but prob best to find out for sure, try 4x4winches.com oh and i upgraded from a zf74 because it was still sooooooooo slow hth martin

ok so looking like a transfer box swap is the best option then, what vehicles did they fit the 1.6 and 1.4 boxs into? and will they fit onto my lt85? also you are correct about the 4 pin diff and stronger half shafts but i changed the rear axle for a rangerover disc brake axle and had such a good offer for the 4 pin and shafts i couldnt say no, so i just brought a detroit locker and use standard 10 spline shafts, neither of which have broken since fitting the 35s it has su carbs so i guess it must be the 135hp version then, like i said the motor is sweet and running ok and it has been very well looked after although i am also aware of the camshafts rounding off, megajolt on the way to so that should help a bit to, thanks again

ok to answer a few questions, no there is nothing wrong with the engine its actually quite sweet but its the old factory fitted carb version and they are no where near as powerfull as you might think, as bogmonster said about 114hp, i bought it completely factory standard and with the 205 tyres she was great at taking off from the lights and even with the 7.50s not to bad but having fitted the 35s its just struggling a bit so im sure its the size/ratios thats are the problem, no idea of the transfer box ratio, its whatever a standard 1988 v8 csw was fitted with, i know it has the lt85 gearbox, like i said im not to hard on it but have given it a bit of grief at times and im suprised how well the 3.54s have held up as everyone said they wouldnt last 5 mins with 35s, hence the reason i was wondering how weak the series diffs really are, by the sounds of what you are all saying is that they are not going to be good enough but i would still like to hear if anyone knows different, oh and would i still be able to use my detroit in the rear or will it not fit series diffs? thanks for all you input so far

as the title says really, i have the chance to get a couple of 4.7series diffs and its got me thinking, im running a v8 in my 90 with 35 inch tyres and it could really do with the ratios changing as it struggles a bit pulling away and cant hold 5th on any sort of a hill, having seen the price of 4.1 ashcrofts i was wondering if you can strengthen series diffs as a cheaper alternative, maybe pegging them would help? i have heard people say they are not as strong but by how much? so can i just use the diffs as they are? will pegging help? swap the crown wheel and pinion into my origional housings? (i believe you need a spacer to do this) will my detroit locker fit if i change the ratios? keep saving until ican afford the ashcrofts parts? its only for playing not for competition, im quite sympathetic to the drive train and ive not broken a std 3.54 as yet (touch wood) thanks in advance martin

now some photos hopefully http://www.flickr.com/photos/30748695@N03/?saved=1

oh and i couldnt resist this one of V8 90 JON, its a good advert for megasquirt

here are a couple of vids my brother took today, ill try and get some photos on here later, hope these links work as ive never done it before, if not you will have to copy and paste the link into your browser

yeah i got them now thanks, i think i found about 7 in there in the end must have been having a blonde moment, i actually found one for a 3.5 carb as well so all is good to get me started, thanks for your help and patience

ah yes i am stupid, thanks fridgefreezer

am i being stupid as well as lazy? (you dont have to answer that ) i couldnt find a spark map for megajolt anywhere in there!

just about got everything for megajolting my 90 now so was wondering if anyone has a map i can use to save me a bit of time when i get it running, its a factory v8 3.5 on strombergs, im sure someone must have done a map for one of these before, yes i know im lazy thanks in advance martin

ok thanks for the explanation, i get it now, so how much is one of these likley to cost if you were to produce one?

ive not used an electric heater but i run a twin tank setup on my 200tdi rangerover, (start on diesel then switch to veg) having forgotten to switch back to diesel on a couple of occasions i can say that i would not recommend 100% veg to start on, it will start eventually but smokes quite a bit when it does and must be putting a lot of load on the pump while trying to pump thick oil, the problem with electric heaters is that you cannot heat the oil that is already in the pump and injectors so it wont make any difference to the temp of the oil until you have been running long enough to replace the cold thick oil with hot thin oil, this is the reason i decided on a twin tank setup, i know there are people running on a single tank with a heater but to me it doesnt seem to be the right way to do it, the other way is to run on a mix as timmy511 said, you shouldnt have any trouble with doing this and you dont need any mods at all, you can prob run a higher ratio than 50/50 but you will have to try it out and see, just to add i have been running on 100% veg (switched when warm/after about 4 or 5 mins of running, doesnt have to be at full working temp) and even at -5 i didnt have any probs with it freezing and the lift pump sucked it through the filter cold (before the heat exchanger) also i only use svo (new oil) and not wvo (waste oil), things may be different if using wvo as all the extra fats and water content it has, maybe someone else has some experience with this, ill stop talking now hope this helps martin

i could be interested in something like this, i have a superwinch pto to run my milemarker with a 33cc pump attatched, its a great setup with plenty of speed and very powerfull and im very pleased with it, however the inability to drive assist is the one downside to this setup, although it has not been a problem as yet i would like the choice to if need be, i usually use 4th gear and transfer box in neutral when winching so with this 'cvt gearbox' mod would i use 1st so i can drive the wheels but the pump still turn at approx the same speed as it does now? i cant really picture how it would work in my head, would the speed of the pump change with engine rpm or stay constant? looking forward to some more info thanks in advance martin

just for reference i have just found a program called' pocket spark' available through the autosportlab website that will allow you to run mj on a pocket pc problem solved

im in the process of obtaining all the parts to fit megajolt/edis onto my v8 90 in the quest for 'waterproofness', what i would like to know is will the software for the megajolt ecu run on a pda so i dont have to have a laptop in the car? thanks martin

how much do you want for the hard top cage you are removing?

AH general motors of course, why didnt i think of that , would it be worth doing this mod on mine as an interim measure while i sort out the megajolt?