HoggyN

Thanks both. I looked at a serp but was worried about the clearance for the oil filter over the front diff. With the vee belt front cover that doesn't look like it will be a problem if fitted with a Mocal pump cover. The rad is already a custom extra thick six row job by JJ Radiators in Coventry. It doesn't help that it is an 86" so there is 2" less room between bulkhead and rad.

Out of interest, I've just measured the length of a RRC carb V8 and the space between the bulkhead and the radiator core of my S1. The latter is 29", some three inches less than the length of the V8. I know I can take the viscous fan off and shorten the pump by about three inches but that still leaves me zero clearance. The only way I can see that a V8 would fit is by moving the gearbox back a couple of inches. There doesn't appear to be any point in moving the radiator forward to gain the room as the front pulley will foul the crossmember.

Welcome to the forum. I think I would sell the Superwinch to a 90 or 110 owner and fit something else. The one you have is never going to look right on the front of a Series.

I wouldn't have thought there would be much wall left in a RR spigot bush if it was reamed out to take a standard Series input shaft. This website is horrible to look at but it does have some useful info... http://teflonmike.craywiki.co.uk/0_Lo_073_Workshop_D_010_V8ing3.htm

Has anybody got any experience of fitting the Bearmach Series 2/2A wiper motors to a Series 1? They are often advertised as suitable for a Series 1 and are a lot cheaper than the genuine article . To my eyes, they don't look like they will fit particularly well. The spindle looks far too long for a start.

I think I'll be putting up with the leaks.

For rats and mice I find the classic spring traps are best. I use a hazelnut as bait on the mousetraps. The little buggers grab them in their teeth and give them a good yank to get them off the pin. Clean kill every time. On the rat traps I use bits of cooked frankfurter sausage. They seem to love it. My wife brought this little chap down from the attic... Rats seem to be quite intelligent so the rest of his mates moved out after he was killed.

It's odd but I've never had a problem with mine. I've always found the handbrake very effective. I don't trial it though.

Why does the engine and gearbox move fore and aft when the handbrake is applied?

Perhaps a bit premature to most on here, but Happy New Year from the land down under.

For the rear you can use a standard Series Rover axle casing with Ashcroft HD halfshafts and your choice of 24 spline locker or ATB diff.

I thought Audis used Torsen diffs.

Happy Christmas to everybody on here. Only opened one present so far... a two litre bottle of Jersey milk and a box of cornflakes. Yum!

I've just noticed an interesting period drum winch on the Rocky Mountain Spares website... http://rockymountainspares.co.uk/shop/?orderby=popularity Twin hydraulic motors on the front of a lightweight.

This is good value, at the moment... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Capstan-Winch-/161910640902?hash=item25b2a05106:g:TQIAAOSw7FRWZTjm Collection only though.

I used one of those disposable ones in the back of mine at a rainy Welsh campsite. It caused a bit of commotion because the other campers thought they had a car fire on their hands.

Are these rules retrospective? Say the mods were done back in the 1980s when the regulations were a lot looser. I suppose the onus would be on the owner to prove the mods were done 20-30 years ago, although that might be impossible.

Not me. I only swapped to negative earth a couple of years ago, but I don't think that has lost me any points.

You could do what I may do: get a modern electric winch with synthetic rope and make a heavy canvas cover for it. The synthetic rope would look a bit out of period but it would save a fair bit of weight and be out of sight most of the time anyway. It depends why you want it, I suppose.

Tell me about it! I've had to resort to grinding down a socket to fit. If it wasn't such a pain in the rear removing the drum and flange etc, I'd swap the bolts for later ones as used on the other prop flanges.

Well, the length changes whenever you go around a corner or over a bump.

Seems a bit daft really. Putting a black and silver plate on a post 72 vehicle isn't going to help retain its authenticity or be in keeping with its age. Quite the opposite. It would have white and yellow plates when it was new.

I've pondered on this over the years. To me, the modern electric winches just don't look right on an Series. If I could find a period capstan or drum winch at a sensible price, I might be tempted. That said, I've had the S! for twenty years and have never been in a situation that my Tirfor couldn't get me out of.

I rang Ashcrofts for advice and they suggested sending them of a video showing how much play there is so they can see if it is within limits or not. A lot easier than driving down to show them.

Thanks guys. I must admit to being a bit confused. I've just been out with a vernier and the bolts are 0.3750 in diameter and the nuts are 0.6000 across the flats. Which would suggest 3/8 Whitworth?