HoggyN

I have found the easiest way to get powder/plastic coating off steel is just to make a small nick in the surface, just deep enough to go through to bare steel, and then leave it outside overnight. The next morning the plastic coating will peel off in great big strips, forced off by the all enveloping rust underneath. Don't be tempted to leave it outside for longer than a day though because all the steel is likely to turn to a big, swollen, crunchy mass of iron oxide. I'm not a fan of powder coating!

You can get chrome and carbon fibre effect sticky back plastic - it could explain the dodgy looking bumper. I might do the Series 1

I was working at Rover when that thing was built. IIRC the underbody 'protection' was moulded plastic. Quite bendy plastic too

Sorry about the delay, had to go Up North for a wedding. Anyway, I've had a grovel and the belhousing is 7 1/4" from front to back outside faces (dimensions read from a tape measure held at arms length under the car so might be out by a 1/16" or so). I hope that helps. If you need any more info just ask.

I stumbled across an explicit 3D CAD package today - CoCreate from PTC. The best part about it is that they are offering a free download with a lifetime licence to anybody willing to fill in a registration form. Part of their blurb.., CoCreate Modeling PE puts the extraordinary power of explicit modeling into the hands of any engineer, designer, or student. Even casual users and hobbyists can use it for their home projects, especially with the help of our Quickstart projects, online help, and user forums. I've downloaded it and it seems quite useful. I've had less than a hour playing with it so I can't offer a better informed opinion. Info and download from here I've got absolutely no connection with PTC whatsoever but, if you want it, get it now because from past experience their free downloads do tend to dissapear after a bit.

That's true, they even sell the cider that the wife's uncle brews - Owd Barker. A 10.5% dry cider. We had a barrel at our wedding, most amusing.

Wynn's brake cleaner certainly does - albeit by another name. Wynn's brake cleaner safety sheet Nasty stuff!

I've got an RV8 mated to a LT77 in my Triumph. I'll can take some measurements if you are still interested. IIRC the flywheel and clutch on the SD1 and TR8 are smaller and lighter than on a Land Rover. It might not matter if you're putting it in something light.

I'm off up there this weekend. Got my spot in the wife's uncle's back garden. I'd be there now if the voltage regulator hadn't packed up on the Series 1

Cool link. I wasted a good few minutes tarting up that Jeep

Air leaks in the induction system? I'd check that before the cam, I had an V8 SD1 with virtually no bumps left on the cam and it ran fine.

I always use eye protection but I've had the needle on the eyeball treatment twice now. Like someone else said, working outside in windy weather doesn't help. The second time was worse because by the time it started really hurting my eyeball had healed over the metal particles embedded in it. I wear specs so I find a full face shield the best solution to the fogging problem. They also give excellent protection. I've had a couple of 9" discs disintegrate in my face with no ill effects. My ugly mug might now be even uglier if I'd just been wearing goggles or safety specs.

Welcome! You have excellent taste in cars, Land Rovers and TRs. Just like me

You won't lose tax exempt status or have to get an IVA for just changing engine mounts. However, you will once you have added new outriggers, chopped the old outriggers off, added a Series rear crossmember etc. There is only one way to be sure - ring your local DVLA office and ask them. If you like what they tell you, get them to confirm it in writing! If you really want to keep the tax exempt status and stay legal it will probably be cheaper to upgrade a Series keeping the original chassis frame, suspension, steering and axles (with a disc conversion). It would also take a lot less time and effort to do

Did he say Yaris?

The Paintman does mail order sand coloured paint. paintman.co.uk Don't bother emailing him, despite having a website he doesn't do computers. Email messages are forwarded on to him by his daughter's neighbour's brother's workmate's son. When, and if, he feels like it

He's right you know. It's so dangerous that it was banned sixty years ago, long before 'health and safety' was even invented "Blasting of articles using sand containing free silica has been banned since 1950 and can lead to silicosis, which is progressive, irreversible and can continue to develop after exposure ceases."

For my road car, yes. I ended up using on those online price comparison sites. I got the identical cover for nearly half my renewal quote. From the the same company!!!

They are softer because the RR also has a self levelling strut to help out - the Disco doesn't.

It is not illegal to use a 'Push to Talk' two-way radio while driving. They are deemed to to be a lower risk. Whether it is advisable is another matter.

If it's any help, I had a 1986 Metro that failed it's MoT because it should have had side repeaters. It had never had them since it was bought new by my grandmother, but I still had to fit some to get the ticket.

Just a quick note. If you are writing to object to these TROs, and every letter is important, please don't mention that you are a member of any club or organisation. If you do, all letters from members of that club will be treated as one objection, even if they receive 10,000. To gain maximum effect, write as an individual.

It's that ease of fitting that causes them to wear out so fast. Unless everything is tight, or bonded, the bush will rotate in the housing or the central sleeve will rotate in the bush. Given that the polyurethane is so soft, rapid wear is inevitable. Original equipment metalastic type bushes have no moving parts, except the distortion of the rubber, and are therefore infinitely superior in the nasty, gritty, environment under the average 4x4.

Has anyone wondered why polybushes aren't used as original equipment by any manufacturer? I rate them alongside hiclones, magnetic petrol polarizers, lumps of tin in the fuel tank etc. If they were any good they would be fitted as standard.