mat2495

As above really, reason I ask is I'm looking to fit a decent temperature gauge, and the sender is 5/8 UNF, which i have been told matches the thread for the sender on a defender 200tdi, and I believe the discovery unit has a different thread. Alternatively is there an adaptor available? Thanks, Matt

The engine is new to my friends ownership, bought in a otherwise nice 110 that was a non runner. Its pretty black and gungy inside, and yes all of the followers are dished on the bottom. I wouldn't like to guess at the mileage, as the clock says 1700! Removed one of the cylinder heads to take a look at the bores, and they were okay, no pitting or scoring, but one of the valves appears to have melted slightly. The part i couldn't understand is how it got this much wear seeing how i wouldn't run in this condition. Whats the consensus, worth rebuilding or start looking for a replacement? one of my concerns is that the missing cam and follower material will have ended up somewhere soft and important like the big ends or the main bearings

Morning all, Started stripping a 3.5 v8 for inspection, as it hasn't been run in some time, and found that a nearly half a dozen of the lobes on the camshaft have worn nearly round, it was achieving maybe 1/16th" lift at the cam follower, while the rest are managing the original 0.39" iirc. I was just curious if anyone can shed a little light on this as I can't see why it would have worn this badly, there is no pattern to which ones are gone either, both on cylinder 6, one on 7, one on 2 etc. Any thoughts or have i completely lost the plot? Thanks, Matt

lovely, that is just what I was hoping for, couldn't see any reason not to do it, but thought i'd ask the adults while on the topic of shocks does anyone have any recommendations? my budget won't stretch to OME, I have had delphi decarbons on the front since buying the car and they seem okay, but how do they compare to koni, or bilsteins?

Hi, is it possible to get pin pin mounting rear shocks in something like a +2" flavour? or failing that can front shocks be used on the rear axle or is there some reason not to do this? Reason for asking is I currently have pin type top mounts, and want to change my rear shocks for something a little shorter, also I really don't get on with the bushes in eye mounted shocks. Cheers, Matt

Sorry for the slight hijack, but my light comes on and off at odd times, and the fluid level never changes so far as I can tell, how sensitive is the sensor? thanks.

Excellent, sounds like I have a few options to choose from then. Thanks all

excellent, i'll give them a call today. Also been offered an original galvanised set for sale now, but they have been painted, is there any easy way to remove the paint without damaging the galvanising? not sure if paint stripper etc would agree with it. Thanks

Apologies if this is the wrong place, wasn't sure where to put it. As above really, I want to get a set of galvanised tub cappings, and having failed to find any for sale would like to have a decent set dipped. Ideally looking for somewhere near Plymouth, and Google hasn't been much help so far. As an aside is there any way to reduce the brightness of freshly galv'ed steel? as I would like them to match the door strips in an ideal world. Thanks, Matt

That's grand, i suspected that may be the case but just wasn't sure. Cheers

Are there any major differences between bulkheads for different engine fitments? The main area of concern is around the transmission tunnel, as Im looking to replace the bulkhead on a 1986 110 csw v8, and have been offered one from a 2.5td. I know the lt85 transmission tunnel is quite different to the lt77 one, but am not sure if the difference is taken up by the small section that joins the tunnel to the bulkhead. Thanks, Matt

For once I have been a step ahead of the game, and advertised it on a local club site that I am a member of, and someone is showing interest in having it. I must admit i quite like the LT85, it has been replaced with another one exactly the same.

Interesting, this one is a solid case LT85, I will have to phone around a few places, only problem is i'm quite some distance from nearly everwhere.

Okay, thanks for the super-fast reply

When I had something very similar to this it turned out to be the connection to the sender on the top of the tank. I hadn't tightened it fully post chassis swap, and while it wasnt leasking fuel, air could get in. I would start with the leak at the fuel filter though.

This may sound like a daft question but does anyone still take gearboxes for reconditioning, or should i just scrap it? It is my understanding that pretty much all reconditioned gearboxes are sold on an exchange basis, hence the question. Thanks

Thanks for the help guys, I certainly hadn't considered the extra awkwardness of taking the transfer box in and out of neutral. What is the best option for an oil cooler for the box? do people still use the standard ones, or run a pair, or is their a decent aftermarket option? dirtydiesel, when you say that you have to increase the revs or the torque convertor slips, does increasing the revs cause it to change up gears as well as the load from the winch can't be too great, or do you not have to increase it that much? Now I just need to decide whether I should go auto or stick with manual.

Evening all, Has anyone ever run a PTO (for a winch) with an automatic gearbox? any pitfalls or problems? I'm just trying to get my head around how it would work out. Thanks, Matt

check out the recovery gear at 5.20

It looks just like the LT85 in my friends 1987 v8 csw,

i presumed it was draining the injectors. lift pump is new but was a pattern part. is it worth replacing with something like a delphi unit? ill pull the pick up unit out of the tank and have a look. Thanks for all the ideas

Hi all, i have a little problem I hope some one can help with. I have just replaced the chassis on my 200td1 90, and having put it back together im getting fueling problems, as soon as the engine is turned off fuel runs back into the tank down the return line. This causes poor starting. I replaced the injector spill pipes, as they were split, but the problem is still there. The other thing is that as soon as my fuel gauge drops below 1/4 of a tank remaining the car runs a bit rough, specifically when reducing engine speed to idle i.e when changing gear etc, at this point it nearly stalls. it feels like fuel starvation to me but i may be barking up the wrong tree, just seems that the timing with the fuel gauge is too much to be a coincidence. topping the tank up fixes this problem also. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Matt

condition can vary hugely, i went round a disposal yard one time and some of them were wrecks, where as some were ex reserve meaning that they had very few miles on the clock, and had been dry stored for long periods of time. where to get one from depends on where abouts in the world you are.

have you lifted your suspension at all?

thanks for the info. do you know the whens and wheres of bush farm pay and play days? mat