mat2495

Would you mind sharing a link to them at that price please? I could do with a couple of sets as well Thanks

Hi Steve, thanks for the offer, but that may be a bit overkill for what I need. @monkie all yours if you want it!

Evening all. I'm adding a complete do-over of the wiring in my 90 to the ever growing list of things to get sorted while it is all in bits, and I'm sure someone on here posted up a link to some neat looking distribution boxes. Something with a common bus, or maybe two for +ve/-ve, space for fuses, a few relays, all that good stuff. The only trouble is now I can't find it again. Vehicle Wiring Products has always been my go to, and they have something close : https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-122-blade-fuse-holders/p-352-12-way-fuse-box I guess I could use that and mount the relays separately. They also have a load of modular stuff that looks promising, but I can't see a module for standard sized blade fuses, and I'd rather not use the mini's, just so they are the same as the fuses I have in the original loom. Has anyone used something similar, or know of any decent alternatives? I'm open to completely different suggestions as well if there is a better way to do things Ta

I tell you what, this forum is magic. I don't mind shifting it a few miles. unless it is raining that is, as I don't have any covered transport at the moment, don't think it will go in the passenger footwell of the 110! suppose it would survive being sheeted over for an hour or so

I can't comment on the door cards, other than I think the shape of the curve at the waist line is slightly different. Regarding the SP doors though, I bought a single piece, lift handle style door, and was happy with the quality. Initially they sent a push button type door by accident, so I got to test the customer service as well! All sorted fairly painlessly, and I think I will be going back for another door for the other side soon.

The four bolts on outside of the manifold side of the head are narrower than the others as well, M10 instead of M12, so they take noticeably less torque to get to the final angle.

It is quite satisfying! With the galvanised chassis and sills as well as various other brackets it should outlast it's owner now. Before building it up with anything else they are reasonable to move by yourself. It felt like a few things when I was writing it up, but I'm glad I did it, and it hasn't made me dread doing the next one, so it can't have been too bad. On the value front, I bought from shielder direct, as I was ordering two at a time they were good enough to put some discount on it, and shipping was pretty sensible. Ended up cheaper than getting them from a local re seller in the end.

Well I didn't have as many photo's as I expected, but I still have one sat on a pallet if you want details of anything particular. Anyway, here are a couple of pics, one after t-wash, with primer going on, and one in paint showing the back side.

I've finished the first one. The fit of the bulkhead was generally quite good, I did have to tweak a couple of small things, for example the area behind the windscreen hinges was slightly thinner causing the bolts to bottom out in the hinge, fixed with a spacer behind the bracket inside. I also had to space the bulkhead back from the chassis outriggers by about 6mm to get the door gap right, which was far enough that I had to stretch the holes in the footwell brackets, but given that it was a new chassis, new bulkhead, and some pretty tired bodywork I really don't know where the issue stemmed from. I can put up a few pictures of the bulkhead and a more complete list of tweaks if you like? Oh and the feet didn't line up perfectly with the holes in the bulkhead outriggers, again, no idea which part wasn't quite right, but easily sorted with a ratchet strap!

Got it sorted this afternoon, there is an insert in the rail that was slightly out of position, so the slots didn't line up properly. With that sorted and a little trim to the catch pin it is now working a treat. thanks again.

Thanks Western. It looks like the part number I have were right then, I will have to dig them back out and have another go, maybe I missed something. I suppose I might have put the glass back in the wrong runner or something while I had it all apart. The problem I was having was that the locking pin wasn't in line with the slots front to back.

Hi all, I'm looking for a drivers side locking catch for the rear window on my 1983 110 Hi-Cap. I have tried AEU2805 and AEU2806, one of which fitted the passenger side, and one of which fitted neither side properly. The only parts book I have access to is 1987 onwards, and it is suggesting that my next attempt should be MWC7625 or MWC7648. Firstly, does anyone know if that is right? they are more expensive than the other ones, so I am a bit reluctant to just try it. Also, they are listed as LH and RH, can somebody confirm which way they are looking at the assembly? I don't want to end up with another passenger side one! Thanks

I recently took delivery of 2 bulkheads from shielder, which are far better than the pictures I have seen online, in a different league really. Iv'e only got half way through fitting the first one, so cant say for definite regarding alignment issues, but so far so good. When I have finished I will do a little write up and a few pictures maybe, if people are interested. Of course I have no experience of their chassis', but from what I have seen they have certainly improved their quality.

Thanks for your thoughts. I don't have to decide right now, so I will probably leave it a week and see if anyone else chimes in good or bad. I suppose at this point in the rebuild I don't want to pinch the pennies to hard. by some vagary of Land Rover's, mine left the factory with series 3 seats in it! Not sure if it was common on the early 110s or not, but I don't think I've seen many like it

Hi All, does anyone have any views on replacement seats they could share? I need a new set of deluxe seats for my 110, and am trying to decide if the exmoor trim set are worth the extra £100 over the britpart ones. Past experience tells me probably yes, but i thought I had best ask first just in case the britpart ones are actually decent. Thanks

I got the 40mm ID, it was a bit tight, but i think 45 would be too big

I bought a length of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLEXIBLE-DUCTING-AIR-INTAKE-INDUCTION-HOSE-COLD-AIR-FEED-PIPE-VENTILATION-TUBE/301742462766?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=600569937242&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 which solved the length issue. I don't think the heater blows hot enough to cause any problems

Just thought I would update this topic, as I hate finding old ones with no answers when I'm looking for something. I got a mate to sanity check the timing belt set up for me, then took the injector pump to my local diesel injection specialist. long story short there wasn't much on it that wasn't knackered. One bill later, I should be picking it up on Friday. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the suggestions, tests, help etc

There is a version of the jaw that Western posted without the standard tow ball, if that helps https://www.trailertek.com/bradley-towing-jaw-5000-kg-capacity and it's even on sale!

Funny you mention that, I had a cam pulley for a V8 where the timing mark was 90° out in relation to the keyway from the original one! and the supplier of that one didn't see why it would be a problem... I did replace the camshaft in this engine, but so far as I can tell it seems okay, though I haven't come up with a way of measuring it very accurately. I will try and get some pictures of how it is set at the moment next time I am at the workshop, but I don't think there is too much to go wrong in lining up dots and arrows etc.

The pump was working okay when the engine was laid up, which I believe was circa 5-10 years ago. And I use the term laid up loosely.. suffice to say it wasn't in the best condition when I got it Compression checks out, no more than 20PSI difference between cylinders, and that was with the battery starting to go towards the end. All around the 370-400 PSI mark Yes, to be sure I re-printed the manual and followed it to the letter.

Well, good news and bad news! the good news is I did get the timing belt set up correctly, the bad news is I still don't know what is wrong. Is there a mechanism in the injector pump to adjust the advance for increasing engine speeds? I'm just thinking if it is timed correctly statically, it would then be retarded at 700RPM, and even further retarded at 1200RPM etc. which would explain why advancing it past 'correct' improved the idle, but it still wouldn't pick up any rev's cleanly. I think it may be time to take the injector pump of and send it away for testing

Oh good, that's worth knowing, I wasn't brave enough to try that last time, thought the fact that it was still on and engine stand probably didn't help!

I upgraded from a cheapy one to the same as Cynic-al mentioned, and found it much easier to get consistent quality flares out of it. Not cheap, but nice to have

Sounds like my weekend plans are sorted then! Be a bit embarrassing when it turns out I missed by a couple of teeth! I was so careful as well as I have never done a 200tdi belt before. I don't know, I'll probably be slandering a couple of the design decisions before I've finished! The correct one is about 4-5mm I think? I know what you mean though, the other one is much wider. Thanks all