mat2495

TDC verified with a probe down the glowplug hole, which agrees with the timing mark on the crank pulley, and the slot in the flywheel. I'm beginning to wonder about the cam timing as well, I don't suppose there is any way to check it without removing the front cover is there? I know when they are supposed to open and shut is in the workshop manual, but i'm not sure I can reasonably measure that many degrees before/after TDC with any real accuracy. Ah well, timing cover off again it is! Nevermind eh Thanks for the thought, but I would hope this isn't the case as I have re-used the original fittings from this engine.

Righto, time for an update! I got a DTI kit, and set the FIP to 1.54mm of lift at TDC ( I also checked that no 1 was at TDC when the timing mark on the flywheel said it was) and it is actually worse.. 1.54mm of lift is actually less advance than I had tried previously by simply maxing out the advance adjustment. Long story short, unless the pump has got something else wrong with it internally, it doesn't appear to be the problem. Anyone got any other ideas for what could cause clouds of white-ish smoke and the inability to rev?

Thanks Tim, I will give them a call. I agree it should be right, and as you say the flywheel is doweled onto the crank. Is it possible that the boss on the front of the FIP has slipped slightly at some point? I know its tight on a taper, but I have reason to believe the engine came to a very sudden stop before I bought it, could it have slipped then? Its looking at something like 10 degrees out of line, maybe more

Evening all, I think i may have a problem setting up the injector pump timing on my 200tdi. Apologies in advance for the wall of text The backstory: this is a completely rebuilt engine for a 110 I am restoring, reground crank, bores honed, new rings, bearings, 2x new rods, new turbo etc etc. Obviously a new timing belt, tensioner etc as well. Before I removed the injector pump from the engine, it was locked in the TDC position, and was put back in the same place, the cam/crank were then aligned with the timing marks and a new belt fitted as per manual. When I eventually came to start it, it was pretty reluctant to go, and when it did catch it was throwing out loads of white/grey smoke. it also wouldn't pick up any revs cleanly, just bogged down. To me this suggested that the timing was retarded, as the smoke smelled very diesel-y, but I rechecked using the slot on the flywheel and the pin in the pump, which checked out okay. I did wonder about a leaking injector, as the engine had been stood for some time, so I swapped them out with the ones from my other engine (a good runner) but it did not make any noticeable difference. Today I decided to go back to my first thought, so I advanced the timing as far as the slots in the injector pump pulley locking plate would allow, and it was much better, started nearly instantly, quite a clean idle, and just a little smoke when prodding the throttle. So onto the question, is there any way the key in the front of the injector pump could become disassociated with the actual correct timing point of the pump? I did not remove the drive flange from the pump at any time, as I don't think the 200 pump has a keyway on it. I guess a sensible next step is to set up the pump timing with a DTI, is there a kit available with the necessary adapters? Also as I have maxed out the travel on the adjustment available, I suppose I will have to strip the timing cover off again, which I didn't really want to do. Alternatively can anyone think of anything else that could cause symptoms like these? Is there anything internal to the pump that can affect the injection timing? Matt

Thanks Western, I am at least trying to put them in the right place then. The problem I am left with is that the brackets are the same width as the locating points on the chassis, so it won't sit inside them. The brackets are from YRM, and the chassis is from Richards, both of which have always been okay for me so far.

Hi all, I have run into an issue on my latest build. The rear tub support bracket (NRC4661 - Item 1 below) seems to be the same width as the bracket on the chassis, so there is no way it will fit inside the chassis bracket. Can somebody confirm that I am not being a complete spanner, there is only one type of these brackets isn't there? no early vs late types or something daft? alternatively if someone could measure theirs, bracket or chassis, that would be fantastic. Vehicle in question is a 1983 110 Hi-cap, and neither the chassis nor bracket are original, so I don't really have a decent point of reference Cheers

well, thats 3-0 to the BFG's so far, pretty conclusive. Time to warm up the wallet then! Thanks

Hi all, I'm looking for a new set of mud terrain or similar, in 255/85R16. So far as I have found so far that gives me 3 options BFG KM2 - 5 at 739.95 Maxxis bighorn MT762 - 5 at 660.00 Maxxis M8090 (creepy crawlers?) - 5 at 988.00 Straight away price pretty much knocks the creepy crawlers out of the equation unless they are the best thing ever to sit under a land rover, has anybody used the other 2? the 90 spends 90% of its time on road, but doesn't do that many miles, so road performance probably comes second to off road performance within reason. Are the BF goodrich worth the extra? or is there an alternative that i haven't found? I guess one thing to be said for the BFG option is I am more likely to be able to find a replacement should I need it in a few years time Thanks

oops, I stand corrected!

Hi Bowie, do they have a habit of failing or am I just unlucky? do they survive any better with a particular coil? as the primary resistance range I have seen listed as suitable for them is 1.5-3.5 ohms, which seems to cover just about all of them Thanks

That is the same as on my early 110 with split doors, part number for the strikers are MRC8444 and MRC8445 for left and right hand side respectively. are you replacing the complete handle assembly or just the striker posts? Hope that helps

I resorted to pulling the complete hub, then welding a socket on to 3 out of the 4 bolts on my 110 calipers, everything else just rounded them even more

Evening all, I am facing a bit of a conundrum with an ignition system. It is a 3.5 carb. v8, but fitted with a 35dlm8 electronic ignition (powerspark?) This has been trouble free for thousands of miles, until it died whilst idling, luckily still on the drive! Anyway, after it refused to start again due to lack of spark it was treated to a new ignition module (lucas) and a lucas dlb198 coil, as the old one was of unknown age and origin. This fix seemed to work a treat, for all of about 10 minutes, when it died again (still on the drive luckily) with the exact same symptoms. Before throwing more money down the dunny, does anyone have any thoughts as to what could kill either or both of these components? is that the right coil to be using? some places suggest it has too low a primary resistance for this system. also it is a non-ballasted ignition if it matters. I did notice a slight ticking sound from the coil while it was briefly running, could it have been a duffer from new? Oh an I will say it before anyone else does...Megajolt .. Cheers

I insured mine after passing my test with the co-op, they were half the price of everyone else at the time, circa 600£ iirc. was a few years ago now but might be worth a shout, alternatively both of my cars are with aviva now and they have been very reasonable

You can certainly ask, unfortunately I didn't write the formula for success down, but the key to it was pre-heating of the surrounding area to prevent the welds cracking as they cooled, obviously the larger the workpiece the harder this gets. I will have a look later and see if I can find which rods i used (on my test pieces I found the arc welder to be a little more forgiving than the Mig)

I think that they may be cast iron, though i'm far from certain. I have, however, had some success welding them, after some trial and error with the welding process. I think the diff housing is drilled and then the axle tubes are plug welded in to it, so potentially you could drill the plug welds out, but it would be difficult to do without going straight through the tube as well. your villain-like vagueness has got me all curious now!

I recently replaced mine with some hydraulic fittings and a length of suitable hose from my local hydraulics place. Seems like a nicer solution than the original metal pipes with flexible links in anyway

well I'm chasing after an ashcroft locker, and my current axle casing is going to be consigned to the scrap heap with a terminal case of tin worm, so I am looking to make the future work as easy as possible now. I have done a couple of diffs before inc. a salisbury, so not afraid of the work, but admit it would be tempting to get someone else to do it and just buy a complete unit by the sounds of it though any axle case in good order will fit the bill as a platform for upgrading Cheers

Is there any sort of a definitive list of the different types of axles fitted, and the differences between them? I have tried searching, but not found what I am really after. basically I am looking for a 24 spline rear axle to go under my 90 (maybe with an ashlocker at some point), and am getting myself confused by disco/defender variants, thick/thin drive members etc and am now totally unsure what I am actually looking for. Is it possible to convert a 10 spline axle to 24 for example by using a 24spline center and HD half shafts? Sorry for all the daft questions but i'm in a proper muddle, and hoping someone can give me a few clear answers as to the best way to go about this! Thanks

Spotted that one thank you, I watched them on this site and had a nose through the comments. how often do trailwise update the statuses? some lanes show as being closed due to land slips etc dated 2012 such as bomber lane, but I'm sure I have read elsewhere that it is open again

sounds okay to me, snow turns deserted back roads into a sort of green lane anyway. Just had a look at these, some of those lanes look stunning!

Morning all, In a weeks time me and a few friends are taking a holiday in north wales, travelling in a 110, and a 90, both quite standard, and we are hoping to take in a few green lanes while we are up there. I have been busy collecting OS maps and looking at trailwise, but am looking for some real world advice. I have been to Wales once before, so know a few lanes, but that was in summer, and I don't know how different things are going to be in winter, any lanes that might be best avoided etc. Are there any TRO's in force at the moment that I should know of? Does anyone have any suggestions of lanes worth visiting? mainly interested in scenic routes. Alternatively if anyone is planning on doing a few lanes and would be happy to let us tag along please let me know! Also does anyone know if the 4x4 site at Bala (I think) has any days running in the next couple of weeks? Thanks, Matt

that is the way I am leaning, I may borrow a known working one from a friends 110 tomorrow, see if i can confirm the diagnosis. Thanks

The clamp is well clear of the terminals, it isn't quite reading full like it does when i earth the terminal, just about a needles width short or two

This is what is driving me mad, the gauge is out of the dash and connected directly, still not right