mat2495

Thank you very much!

is this an aluminium one with the diagonal split windows? unfortunately I don't know anyone selling one but i would love a couple of bits of your old one if it gets replaced, sorry for the topic hijack. Matt

have you checked the panhard rod bushes? they can give 'death wobble' after hitting a pothole symptoms when worn out, also worth checking that the bolts for them are a good fit in the chassis and axle brackets as the holes can sometimes oval Matt

I dont have any pictures of mine to hand, is your's a retrofit 200tdi or an original? if its been retro fitted and uses the n/a or t/d exhaust the mid box has to go, and I believe it might the same on an original 200tdi. Cant help with pictures of the front bracket as I made something up to suit, mainly as I didn't want to drill holes in my galvanised chassis, from what I remember of the original setup it bolts onto the underneath of the radiator crossmember matt

where abouts are you located? post an ad in the wanted section on here and someone should be able to sort you out with one

yes I did think that would be a bonus, a few less Kg's on the door/bonnet

Good enough for me! what i'm proposing both tyres are the same rolling radius anyway, so I can't see it causing major headaches.

Basically I'm looking for a couple of spare tyres for my 90, which is sat on 7.50R16 michelin xzl's mounted on wolf rims, I am struggling to find wheels and tyres to match but can get some xzl's on standard rims quite easily. Now I know the offset and the width are different but how much of an issue is that? given that hopefully I will never need to use the spares will a pair of xzl's on standard rims be okay? thanks, Matt

This may be a daft suggestion but did you have the center diff locked, as if not only the rear output would turn with only the front prop fitted

I've heard lots of good things about the clarke 160, but personally I would be looking for a second hand high quality machine, I ended up getting an 180A Eland mig, set me back about £250 including new euro torch and earth lead etc. It must be 10-15 years old, as the company doesn't exist anymore so far as I know but its well built and performs very nicely. obviously this can involve a lot of waiting around to find the right machine which may be no good If you are in a hurry to finish something!

Yes, that's the conclusion i came to, but with the timing mark at 6 o'clock the key was at 12 o'clock. Really glad I compared the old and new gears as that would have caused quite a lot of head scratching when trying to get it to go. matt

All sorted now, timing mark is definitely wrong on the new sprocket! Thanks all

mine looks exactly like this one from turners website http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/info_240.html

yes but if the dots are in a different position on the cam gear then surely the camshaft will be in a different position when the two dots align at cylinder 1 tdc?

Could somebody confirm where the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket should be in relation to the woodruff key slot? I have two and they are 90 degree's different setting it up the two different ways suggests that 90 degrees anticlockwise is correct ( the other timing mark being opposite the key way. 3.5 engine with standard 3.9 cam if it makes an difference Thanks

I listened to vulcan bomber saying Koni heavy tracks, and have absolutely no regrets, they seem to be good at everything, and reasonably priced over here at any rate.

The discovery temperature sender is indeed diferent to the defender variant, but they are also different threads so you will need an adaptor as well, I just went for an aftermarket temperature gauge in the end, so I know what temperature the coolant is rather than guessing. I think the discovery thread is M16x1.5 and the defender sender is 5/8UNF but i would double check that if i were you. What does your gauge currently read at running temperature? Mine used to be at the top end of the white section, about 2 o'clock ish, which the new gauge says is about 85-90 celcius, and I wouldn't want it to run much hotter than that. Regards, Matt

I think the plain green wire that is shared with the temp gauge is the stabilised voltage supply, there may even be a spare in the dashboard (there was in mine) depending on how many gauges you have fitted. green with black tracer goes through the bulkhead and down under to the tank sender for me, which also has a 12v supply, though i don't remember if the colour code is the same on that one

got a complete set up for a 2.5, shipping cost could be huge though. PM me if you are interested

best i have found them at so far is £68+vat each from paddocks for the +2" versions, which as you say that seems like good value for money given how long they should last. best start saving my pennies now! Matt

That is exactly what i was hoping to hear, and there was me thinking that I had found all of the threads discussing them! Cheers, Matt

Has anybody got any experience with these, good bad or ugly? just trying to decide if I can justify the cost of them. Also do the front ones have a second tube protecting the main shaft, or are they open? hope that makes sense! Thanks, Matt

Shouldn't really need them, my bulkhead is absolutely solid at the moment, and held on by nothing more than the outrigger bolts, and the footwell to chassis brackets. Were the bolts a good fit through the brackets? and I hate to say it but are they all done up tightly? matt

Surely if it is a 4 speed behind a v8 it would be an LT-95, which means that the transfer box and gearbox are all one unit?

Thanks Western, not sure my piggy bank will stretch that far! I have had a look and can buy an adaptor for about £5, so will weigh that up against the cost of a 5/8 UNF tap. Can anyone confirm that the thread of the discovery sender is M16x1.5? Cheers, Matt