wayne1978trucks

can I ask what you have done with the lt95? I'm in the market for the box, diff lock button, gearstick, hi lo stick, tunnel, floor plates, rubber tunnel cover......basically everything you took out I assume. i have 2 x lt77's here and one is an lt77s I'm told..... also have a tunnel for the lt77 if you want the correct parts for the floorpan. interested in a sale? thanks wayne stevens

nice P6 by the way, I remember sitting in my dads black p6...good times.

Quagmire, I thought that, but a p6 dealer pointed out that the p6 intake pipe is smaller than that one I showed in the pic, when I was scouring the internet world I got the impression that the light blue air box in my previous post was fitted on stage 1 v8's, and that with mine being early it may of been what was fitted to it in the factory. You know when you did things decades ago that you thought would improve things that you later regret....that's where I'm at now eg no pics of her when I bought her and many of the original items got rid off over the years......stupid boy!

thanks Quagmire and Fridge, not had much chance to do much as ive now got the other 300tdi in the garage, however my father and I were resetting carbs and fitting new genuine ignition parts and noticed a carb butterfly screw missing so that's on the list...and the accelerator cable had been direct fitted to the lh carb which dosent give it full throttle oh and burlen fuels have identified the carbs as hif6 not 44, if the carbs were old and knackered i'd be getting recon hif44s but the carbs are like new in and out as for the filter I've seen the defender carbed dustbin air filter but I don't think that was fitted to my 1985 one ten, ive got a pic of the type that was originally on it (the pic is not mine its off ebay)....am I going in the right direction? as I thought mine had the two paper filters in each end with each end being removable.

hi folks just a question about air filters as I'm going through this thing putting things back to how they should be the air filter should be a huge can behind the carbs attached to the elbows with 2 filter elements in (605191) 1 at either end.... does anyone know what this part number is for the steel casing as ive gone through all my parts catalogues and found nothing. i think quagmire used a p6 one but is that the same as the one I'm after? thanks wayne

thanks lo fi i'll stick that one on the list. thanks again

Sorry for the long awaited reply, not done anything to it, the wife has got me finishing the kitchen and the 300tdi is in the garage getting some love and attention. thanks for the advice, done the wd40 test already. tried to run it with a little tweak of the carbs as directed (told to lean it slightly after the lift test on the needles) now the miss is light when cold with slight choke on then gets worse as it warms up with no choke, choke out when warm makes it rev it conkers off, the miss is now a lot worse under load (can drive it cold, wont pull of the drive when hot) started with the basics ...ordering all the service items due to following...found a plug lead broke (pulled of the plug and left the end on the plug), checked and found carb balance awfull, which led to finding that it has the throttle linkage attached wrong, so got hold of a workshop manual and now going through all the basics coil/module duff... seemed to put out less spark the warmer it got. not check vac unit but its on my list After the above I had a chat with a friend that builds aston martin v8s and rebuilds su carbs on aston martin db's and he offered to check the carbs out and do a refurb if needed, he will set them to default while I set about checking compression again, leakdown test, all vac hoses, throttle link replacement, service items inc coil, leads, module etc. how do I check the cams with inlet off? see you in 6 months lol ps I used to get a ping on my email when I got a reply to a post but its not happening how do I get it working again(it partially why ive taken so long to reply) thanks again wayne

neil'l90 thanks guys neil yes I have researched simonbbc as well as rpi and after this weekend (doing compression tests and leak down) ill consider the purchase of other offending items l90 yes that's what has confused me whether 135 is for my compression is a mystery however I also think mine is fitted with a composite gasket so without a headskim that also makes for lower compression....so the investigation continues... and before I get 'why did you buy that?' , ive paid as much as a rolling chassis/body only so once the engine and box are in the garage the rolling vehicle can recoup the outlay, plus the engine is as sweet as a nut...no smoke...no tappet cam or big end rattles, very clean, no oil leaks, clean inside plus a gungy looking sd1 v8 engine thrown in for nowt and an lpg kit with tank so even if its scrap its only cost me time and thanks again chaps wayne

perfect thanks flash, no the 2 lower readings were on opposite banks, ill do a proper wet and dry test when I get 5 and really work some numbers out. on the dizzy etc the chap before me had put in a new dizzy, leads and coil before he parked it but I noticed as we were removing each lead to see which one was missing some were sending a real crack of a spark and others were less of a crack as though some leads are weaker. rpi very informative wayne

hi guys i have got hold of a rough running 3.5 v8 110 van dirt cheap, (misfires until warm then will tickover high but has NO PULL whatsoever and dies) we want to put our 1985 one ten csw back to a standard v8 so don't want 3.9 4.0 4.6 etc etc just a standard 3.5 on carbs....anyhow we did a compression test and 6 bores were about 110psi and 2 bores were 105psi on a dry test but didn't have throttle down. I have searched every where to see if these figures are ok on a low comp engine but come up with no definite answer, also the chap claims that its got 3.9 cams in, does this effect the comp test? if I have missed a thread with all this in please redirect me....thanks wayne

well spare prop has gone on the sliding joint is seized beyond .....so in the bin its gone, just need to order the new prop as this one is just a get me on the road for Monday prop. while I was at it all I noticed I need to order a n/s cv joint as that's got some play and the seals that stop the diff oil from getting to the drive flanges, I did drop in the 2 new rear half shafts while under there and the 4 hd drive flanges that have been sitting on the bench for 12 months, and guess what it now dosent clunk like someone has crashed into the back of me when I pull off. ( I'm shocked how much play was in the flanges and one of the shafts was close to no teeth) so the repair/service list got shorter........then longer again. thanks again guys wayne

update I noticed also that a weight is missing the 4 spot welds are there and a square patch of rust but no weight so that also may have been a contribution. wayne

lads your bang on , we have had it in the garage today taken the prop off an its the uj nearest the transfer box, its knackered but only one of the four bearings are gone so if anyone else gets same symptoms then it may be this, oh and the nearside click is the drive flange ....a lot of play. by the way the slider on the prop is very stiff , do you think this is the cause of the failure? many thanks to the replies chaps. wayne

This morning towing our trailer with 2 ton on, got to the lights then pulled off and could feel a slight vibration, as I changed into 3rd it got worse. If you are coasting out of gear its still there. As you accelerate its less, it gets worse on deceleration. Stopped on level ground with the handbrake off and when I twist the front prop one way then the other itsounds like its clicking at the swivel area. When I twist hard on the front prop it feels like I can click it past a stiff point like its moving a spline one way then back a spline. Looks like im stripping it at the weekend but any ideas? Thanks Wayne.

dvsa arnt bothered they say we don't answer questions of that nature and could not tell you if your spec of vehicle, suspension or rack is of an acceptable upgrade. vosa are under the impression that if the rack and suspension modifications are acceptable on a special vehicle issue and match those recommended by special vehicles then there is no problem. eg heavy duty suspension and shocks plus rack to chassis mounts. so back onto brownchurch to see what mods if any are carried out to their utilities vehicles in order to raise the limit. and of course try to buy the mods through them as a trace......... ive seen the huge roofrack on their 130.... the rack alone must be more than 75kgs. err might be a trailer after all...... shall I put a rack on the trailer? ha ha ha. wayne

thanks snagger, very informative. ive sent a similar question to the technical enquiries at vosa/dvsa, they have answered trailer issues for me in the past. The word from brownchurch is that the utilities buy special vehicles that are type approved so have the suspension issues etc that you mentioned ironed out and so are allowed to exeed the 75kgs, ill post the reply after. ps why didn't you take the 109 to Dubai? are you staying there for good? wayne

so I take it that the 75kgs limit is set in stone? my insurance company have said if the rack is weight rated above the 75kgs and I supply written proof that it is rated by the manufacturer or supplier then all is ok. the rack ive been offered is a brownchurch so I may give them a bell.

hey farmer that looks like a rack my dad made when I was 9 years old on an old landy we had GHA937L, it was built from scaffold tube and slowed the top speed to 55mph, it did have a perk 4203 as a power plant so I suppose the 55mph wasn't too bad really. my biggest issue is being stopped and impounded as its my work vehicle, I just cant justify a trailer in the yard just for items that wont fit in the back of the 110.

As title suggests really, I've had an offer of a utility roof rack with rear rack to chassis bars and front rack to bulkhead bars. does this up the rated roof limit of 75kgs? I ask this because the rack weighs in at about 65kgs because its mega heavy duty and I've seen the utility company's with loads of equipment up there. Will I be looking for a weight rated plate on this thing? or is the 75kgs limit set regardless? thanks wayne.

All is quiet, even on a longer run, it sounds normal (well as normal as a box would sound after 170,000) (I suspect its original as the suffix is a j but it could have had treatment, I don't know) wont have the trailer treatment for a few weeks so if any thing dies ill update. Just a side line I have noticed a drip coming from the hole in the bottom of the bell housing and as the slave cylinder had given up I expected the fluid to be that but ill keep an eye on the levels to see if its coming from the box. Oh and when I looked through what had been said on other threads I did also check the breather and it wasn't blocked as ive heard this can cause too much pressure in the box and pop a seal. Thanks again chaps.

Yes, tunnel now back on and all seems as quiet as it should be, ill go the long way to the workshop tomorrow to see if I can hear it when it warms up. Kicking myself as its a good motor for the £3100 we paid. We have been surprised how good it is in places yet equally surprised how bad things like play in the rear axle are.(ordering half shafts and flanges next) The chap was an old guy who covered about 1000 miles a year in it for the last 8 years (according to the mots) and after this I don't think the gearbox oil has been checked at all by him. When we bought her we budgeted for an axle, a chassis, 2 doors, a paint job and various odds and bits and so far the chassis has gone through the mot, the new doors are on and the axle may get away with just shafts, so all good. Thanks Wayne

Sorry forgetting my manners , thanks for taking the time to reply guys. thanks again. wayne

Err I have just got in NO OIL in the box at all! just a silver grease looking blob and filings on the drain plug. (by the way this vehicle is a new edition and has a rebuild planned, I'm glad we got £900 of the asking price now or the wife would be blowing a fuse) I did check all other oil levels just left the box due to how dry it is ...lesson learned check EVERYTHING before using a second hand landy Filled with mtf94 and went for a 10 mile drive then dropped the oil and refilled with fresh mtf94 The first fill that came out was black and the drain plug has little filings on it again. Once refilled the crunch is gone and the whine has been reduced alot but its still there, however I was test driving it with no tunnel cover to have a real good listen so I'll have a listen once its back together, by the way it whines in 1st 2nd 3rd but dosent whine half as bad in 5th and hardly at all in 4th. This is the hard top 110 work van not our csw and its having a chassis swap at the end of summer so I'm hoping ive saved it long enough to get through the next 6 months, then I recon a call to ashcrofts is on the cards. my dad was a series 3 nutter when we were kids and he says drive it like a tractor and it will have 20 years left in it ha ha ....yes dad but you drove at 25mph everywhere!!!

Ive scowered the forums for clues to this one and not got a straight answer. While towing a 2 tonne load the other day I noticed that once we had covered 5 miles the gearbox (or the transfer box) was getting a loud whine only when accelerating, after about 10 miles we were stuck in traffic and I noticed that 2nd gear was crunching while being selected (not heavily just felt like a nip) the whine is more noticeable after 30mph. once it had cooled over night and was cold in the morning there is no whine and no crunch, but... Ive noticed recently if I take it out on a long run (25 miles) with no weight in and not towing a whine does start to appear but not really noticeable, does get more as it gets warmer though and 2nd has a little nip on selection. Ive stripped the tunnel cover out and ill be checking oils in the morning but any clues ? or any other checks while I'm there? thanks in advance wayne

didnt they also introduce the 300tdi after the 200..err..bad idea- then the td5..err..bad idea