wayne1978trucks

spot on thanks nick

is YBE100530 the bit of trickery i need ? i think i need a longer pin to attach this to the speedo drive too is this assumption correct? and do i leave the speedo drive in there and will the above part just have the square peg on the end? ps any one know what the part number to the 3 pin plug is to go into the above part number? thanks guys

scrap that idea ticking over at 2200rpm acording to this piece of scrap and goes off the scale(6000rpm) when i blip throttle so its going back to suppliers and ill just get a vdo jobbie and stop being tight with the cash

Hi guys i remember someone on here mentioning fitting an electronic vdo speedo to a tdi defender with cable driven speedo drive, i think they used an electronic sensor off a 300tdi disco but as my 1984 300tdi'd build has the lt77/lt230 setup will the electronic pickup be the same and if not what can i use? ive heard britpart do one that fails often so if you know genuine part numbers would be great. ps i can use a hall effect sensor or an inductive sensor but dont have a clue what these are

thanks guys top info after i finish pleasing the wife with finishing the rear of the house i promised 6 years ago ill get it wired in and check it...thanks

As title sujests im fitting a rev counter in my 300tdi but all the posts i have read say adjust some dip switches in order to get the correct readings on the tacometer, the one i have bought dosent have these dip switches just a selection of positions on one switch... 1. 12 pole or alt 2. 4cyl 3. 6cyl 4. 8cyl Any ideas? its an alpha tachometer with a limit of 6000rpm, if its no where near for the price of the gauge compared to the vdo one ill dismantle it and screen print the correct digits/segments on the face. ps where is the w terminal on the alt?

err i have a 300tdi and ive had an austin allegro and liked it my choices are either rubbish or im lucky to find good ones ha ha ha les is top bloke though and i would always ask him first. ps a knackered 200tdi is not as good as a mint 300tdi and vice versa which ever one is mint and cheap in my book is a winner.

definitly a difflock, mine had same before 300tdi went in

"What's the difference with the TD5 mounts then?" I dont understand the statement the rear top shocker mounts are the same on a 110 from 1985 to 2007 as far as i can tell. The shockers are genuine landrover and are stamped... RPD501010 LAND ROVER MADE IN SPAIN ive definately got the numbers correct but still cant find whether they are ok for my truck?

Hi ive bought a set of rear shock top mounts suposed to be new take off from a td5, the mounts are fine for my 1985 one ten, but they have also come with new genuine land rover shockers with a part number stamp on them of RPD501010. I cant find any coresponding references for that number so two questions really, can i use them on my 110? and what are they off? , thanks chaps

must also put my bit in here when the 110 was on the road i had bfg muds on her and they handled and stopped great, which is why when it goes back on the road they will be staying on her.

hi just a quick point on axle stands my 110 fell off them last week COMPLETELY my fault and it fell across my legs, lucky for me the axle i was removing was still under the vehicle and prevented me getting crushed but i have nice big bruises to stop me taking a risk again.... JUST A FURTHER POINT ON YOUR LEVELLER... sell it on ebay, mine was rusty but still fetched £30 the danish are always after parts so i will post international and use P4D for my couriers unless a forum member needs it of course..

Basically as the title sugests ...ill start from the begining...im in the process of a full rebuild the shockers need replacing and i would like it lifted but it seems to be high anyway, i may just need to get shockers but while im at it i will lift it if not already done. so could anyone tell me the measurment between top of axle and bottom of the chassis rail. i have 265 75 16 bfg muds on her so the height from the ground will be different anyway

mine is on 235000 but been off the road for 3 years now having a 300tdi/lt77 and a full refurb ...by the way i used to have a 1987 escort van that had done over 500,000 ex post office but i assume a few engines had been in there

FUEL FILTER!!! my 84 110csw before i put the 300tdi in was a pig for dying on full throtle ...i only knew cos it was on the motorway alot and would die a death... changed the fuel filter a few times but eventually got the tank off to flush it too as over 20 years of silt was in there.

i have fitted a disco 300tdi onto an lt77 box in my 110 csw and need to pipe up the air intake, i am mounting the airbox (round cylinder shape with inlet on the end and an inlet on the side) a little further forward as the engine sits further back on the lt77 but what part number is the pipe from the turbo inlet to the air filter box and what pipework/parts do i need from the drivers side intake on the side of the wing (as i know have 300tdi wings) thanks chaps

my csw is white with a white roof and it dosent say white / white lol

spot on will be working on her on thur/fri next week now but thanks loads western, much appreciated.

'black/violet wire ending down near the gearbox -- colours not used, could be black/purple ?' yes your right it is a black/purple wire but where does it go ...by the way the slate/red and the black/purple end together in a 2 pin plug one is male bullet one is female. i have sorted the glow plug relay now i hadnt looked far enough down the 200tdi loom there is a 4 pin multi to connect to. all other wires/connectors etc are all coresponding but now im left with an 8 pin rubber multiplug next to where the rear/chassis loom plugs in with the following colours etc looking at it head on with the wires behind i have the following; top left--------male bullet---black/purple (i think this connects to the above gearbox loom) top right------female bullet--white/purple (there is a white/purple in old rear chassis loom but in my wiring diagrams can only find something to do with fuel relay so i assume its for a petrol vehicle) second left----female bullet--white second right---female bullet--white/yellow third left-----female bullet--green third right----female bullet--purpl/orange bottom left----female bullet--light green/white bottom right---female bullet--light green thanks western for the info

i have fitted a 200tdi loom in my 110 but only had the bulkhead / engine sections, so far all is very well and i have made my own rear section using all correct coloured wiring etc etc and added some 30amp cables in there just in case i need extra electrics in the rear. ive also chopped the multiplugs off and replaced them for new plastic ones but im strugling with a slate/red wire ending down near the gearbox black/blue wire ending down near the gearbox black/violet wire ending down near the gearbox i also have the glow plug relay to wire in but cant seem to find coresponding colours the relay loom has a 4 pin multiplug there is also a white/orange single wire coming out of the bulkhead loom that i dont have connected and my green/brown wire from my reverse lights in the rear loom dosent seem to have anything to plug into, pics of a loom plugged together would be helpful especially the area where the rear loom plugs up to the main loom thanks chaps

dont forget you need to uprate the main brown wire to take the extra current , you can run a cable straight to the positive on the starter or do like i have and use a mini battery live cable straight to the landy battery.

Can i just say mechlock isnt a deterant if it only locks off the clutch, i have driven trucks with crash boxes and many a landy without a clutch just put her in gear first then turn the key or hotwire it and as long as the revolutions in the box of the next gear your trying to select match the engine then hey presto she just clicks in ... my favourite was to have a quick release steering wheel ... oh and i speak from experience when i say if it wont start and clutch wont go in then a towing straight bar, a mate and two flurescent jackets make you look like recovery especially when its parked up on edge of town while you go shopping , or a car transporter trailer and a winch works wonders even if you get caught "oh sorry mate i must have the wrong reg" works a treat. oh i also found this very effective a two tone air horn off an old ambulance wired to a secret switch and to your door pin switches scares the life out of them and instead of the neighbours or passers by thinking its just another alarm they actually come look...how many curtains twitch when the rozzers turn up! As you can tell many moons ago i knew some not so nice charicters but as the grandad used to say "keep your friends close but your enemies closer" sorry if i have offended anyone just trying to help in spotting the little rotters and what they really dont like.

As title sugests my rear floor in my 110 csw was removed from the kick plate for the 2nd row seats to the back door ive now completed the full strip and respray of the chassis and have all new underfloor crossmembers but need to get the floor and kick plate section made. Could i (as my mate makes heavy duty plastic presses) get this section made from 6mm plastic sheet that will be plastic welded to form a bolt in floor section with the cross members plastic welded to the under side of the floor, he says it will never rot and is stronger than the origional alloy. As the section is not structural and the seatbelts/seats will still be bolted to the cross members would you see any probs with mr mot or vosa ?

as i pointed out to some guy on here the other week keep your eye on ebay even after a cooling off period say of about 6 month they will consider it an investment, also i dont know how many times i need to tell folk always weld a small blob on any protruding thread of expensive or sought after bits on yer trucks AND GET DECENT ALARMS ON EM with prox sensor , you cant get near mine without me knowing...sorry bout the loss though, wayne