xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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My chassis number is 939-31243-C, looking here: http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/identification%20numbers.html%C2'> that should fall in the 1975-1979 - 109" Station Wagons serie.
Is there any way of telling if the original block was a 5 or 3 bearing model?
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I will replace them at one time.
I needed a quick fix for MOT-revisit since passing the date I needed a full retest.
I cleaned them out 3 times and got trough MOT
also have been playing with the vacuum a bit to get some more brake power (still miserable)I've already ordered my first 37 parts in order to get the car driving as I want it to, so don't be affraid I pushed it trough MOT and stick with that state
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I thought V8 plus rangy diffs plus overdrive was the to go. But an S3 gearbox behind a V8 will always have a reduced life span. That's why the 2A box was sought after back in the day; if you can live with syncro on 3rd and 4th only?
Personally I'd cock about with the 2 1/4 petrol. Because it is a diesel capable engine, you can go all out on tuning. Plenty of power without that damaging low-end torque.
What is the lifespan of a S3 gearbox on a series anyway? (with it's original 2.25Diesel engine and standard diffs and tyres.)
From what I read here and there Series III is only for the nerds whe like to rebuild a gearbox every other month..... my 70.000 km's series III is on it's second gearbox (just bought it, it was mounted 4.000 km's ago) so I'd expect a rebuild before ~ 130.000 km's...
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If there was sealant I wouldn't measure 76ohm to battery negative (or engine as earth)...
now I've red some more... It might be worth mentioning the heater doesn't work.... maybe still themostat open all the time??
will replace the sender anyhow.
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These where some readings I got when testing my sender in water , has the engine got a good earth.
Temperature 18 56 100C
series sender 323 118 56 ohms
in that case 76 ohm isn't a very odd reading. I'll try to make sure the connection to the sender is good, and as they don't cost a fortune I'll order a spare with my next shipment
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Soo... now there is a unused britparts hub seal lying around. I'll have to order more stuff in the near future....
- do I fit the britpart and replace it when leaking in a few years (years I hope...??) or do I throw it away and buy bearmach as I need to order other stuff as well....
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The magnet operates the reed switch, that's how they work: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch
Personally if I were doing it, I would go the magnet and reed switch every time, even one of an old bike computer would do, and it would return whatever voltage you fed it, if you have an arduino running I guess you have 5V to use if you wanted?
if the original speedo is feeding 12V I'd keep that and tap a line into that 12V line, lower that to ~5v (classic voltage devider ~R500 / ~R700 should do.) so the original speedo can keep working and I can use a arduino as well.
You all got me enthusiastic, I shouldn't forget i've had my series now for 16 days and there's a sh!tl0ad of other things to fix before a fancy speedo...
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it would be easier if the original one is still in place I guess. than that signal could be used. The pulse would then be a 12v (up to 14.8V) pulse I assume?
What is the normal feed to the switch?
As I want to keep the original as well I won't be changing that.
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how can I test is my sensor is working? my gauge does nothing at all..
I read 68 Ohm on the sensor on a almost cooled down engine. I can trace this wire to the back of the gauge.
blue-green input to the gauge. I'd expect the green wire going to the top of the fuel and temp gauge to be the regulated 10~ volt... (will see if I can measure that from underneath the dash.....)
edit:
I hope you all don't mind i use the forum as a sort of notepad. Just in order to keep sharing (and not forgetting myself) what i've measured.
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If i disconnect the cable from the sensor and place a 6Ohm resistance between that wire and mass the gauge comes all the way up.
sooo...
6 ohms reads hot (manual resistance)
68 ohms reads cold (sensor on engine)
2 options.
1. the sensor on the block is broken and should be lower than 68 ohms (didn't have a chance to measure on hot engine, but gauge doesn't come up....)
2. the thermostat is stuck open so that even driving 40 minutes in ~26 degrees outside the motor doesn't get to working temp...
How can I check my thermostat valve?
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BTW. how does the speedometer work? Is that a mechanical turning wire or is that also electrical?
Is it a resistance to 12V or a pulse sensor?
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http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/EEPROMWrite
there seems to be one onboard on the Arduino UNO. I'll see if there is one onboard of the arduino nano / mini... and yes they have
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardNano
http://tronixstuff.com/2011/03/16/tutorial-your-arduinos-inbuilt-eeprom/
now only i2c to LCD is needed and a sensor to sense rotations on axle or something similar.
for MPG a diesel flow meter would be required I assume.
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basically this could be converted into a speedo that can be calibrated on the fly.
place tomtom. drive 40Mph (or whatever) push button and new callibration is done.. Woul thereby be suitable for all tyresizes.
Just dunno if a arduino can store variables in it's programming storage or if that needs an extra (fragile and more costly) storage card.
With a storage card however you could store everything.. gps? gyroscope info? water sensors? temp ? miles per gallon? ...
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if someone can create a simple programmable speedo system which uses a series gauge i would definately be interested in borrowing the idea, maybe paying for someone to bewitch the microcontroller system for me! haha
I'd have no problems coding the thing.
Just need to find a sensor.
I tend to buy stuff at banggood.com or dx.com (the mini / nano arduino clones).
Just need to find a sensor that measures rotations in a way the duino can read. the rest is peanuts.
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Thanks all for the help in the different topics. In this topic I'll keep posting the general progress.
Just had my 109 series III trought french MOT (valid for 5 years as it is a 'carte grise collection').
My new tyres are Fedima F-MUD's 7.50R16.
Now up to all repairs.
my list:
1. replace seals in front left diff as oil gets in the breaks.
2. remove (broken) AVM hubs and replace with standard members
3. all oil levels
4. electric vacuum and remove butterflap in air intake (diesel engine)
5. have a good drive offroad...
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ok swivel on problem side is empty, axle is empty.
broke 2 drills on drilling off the rotten avm hub and it was filled with silicone or something like that. The pieces where permanently engaged. Pulled the ring out that slides in and out and thereby I now have a 4x2 landrover
atleast halfaxles and propshaft are completely disconnected. Should be safe for my ~70 km drive to MOT and back and another 30 km's for new tyres -
Remove the differential and the propshaft? Remove the half shafts?
G.
in that case breaking the AVM hub open and 'unlock' it permanently is the easiest. That would ensure prop and halfshafts not to move at all.
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one other option.... break open the avm hub remove one of the components to make sure it runs freely there as well and glue it back on for the time beeing.
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Ola,
I'm about to do something stupid...
I've drained front axle oil as it leaks in to the breaks...
For a MOT (french Controle Technique) test I need the brakes to work (then I've got 5 years for rebuilding the car and the occasional test drive).
I've got only 3 days left and won't be able to change hub seal in time.
So front axle is empty, no problem (i thought) as I'm running in 4x2 AND have AVM free wheel hubs.
Well I just discovered the right front wheel hub is glued together (no way of getting it of other than breaking it open) and is locked all the time regardeless of the choice on the hub.
This means since the left wheel is 'free' the right wheel will turn it's own halfshaft and the other halfshaft in reverse. If for any reason the oher halfshaft gets resistance it will turn the front drive train axle which also rotates freely in the box.
In other words there is no strain on the diff.
yet though, running ~ 100 km's to a tyrecenter and MOT without any oil in a moving diff seems stupid.
So I came up with the idea to give it 0.25 liters (or atleast that little that it will lubricate the diff itself a bit but don't run into the halfshafts.
Yes next action will be to properly fix this but that will be a next holiday and that's beyond the 2 months I have for my revisit on MOT.
therefore the question. How much oil will go in the front axle, and if anyone knows, how much is a safe amount keeping the halfshafts dry?
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how is it possible that an original setup would touch on the inner right wing on a hard right? and how to solve this.
Would this be extreme too out? (also might explain the sloppy driving at speed, was like boating)
Keep in mind though I just have this vehicle for 4 days (working my ass off) and tyres are bad and low pressure (expect new ones monday).
still the touching (chassis, wing and springblades) seems odd.
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Throw the AVMs in the bin, IMHO they are a waste of time. Without looking at a parts list, you'll need drive members, nuts, split pin and end cap, all fairly cheap.
http://www.paddockspares.com/571711-drive-flange-24-spline.html
drive flange is a drive member I assume?
Nuts and splitpin are already there. (the one that requires a special tool but usually can be opened easily with something else + de splitpin that goes trough.)
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One of my AVM feewheel hubs (on my newly acquired vehicle) is locked in both settings (4x4 and 4x2) while the other works jut fine.
Also it seems it has been abused (broken open with a chisel is seems) and glued back together....
Since a new pair costs ~250 Euro's I'm wondering if it would be cheaper and easier to go back to normal hubs...
1. you thoughts on AVM freewheel hubs
2. anyone a partlist for what I would need to replace a AVM with standard stuff?
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Ok, if you make the rod to long... it smokes black like hellll (as if you would impose on your competitors in a tractor pulling).
However with some fiddling and kicking the brakes hard I did manage a wheel slip (1 wheel, the one that was cleaned.. see other topic) on paved road!!
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series III 109 (1980) with vacuum tank.
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I've found (after cleaning my brakes) that I still need to try and kill the brake pedal in order to get brake force.
after dis-connecting the brake vacuum rod with the engine running I found loads more vacuum with the lever more to the front of the car. So i set the knobs on the rod to almost maximum and reconnected it all.
Braking appears better (could even have a proper 2-frontwheel slip on gravel road).
1. Is there a guide to set this?
2. how to find the optimum?
3. what happens if it's to far either end?
also have been playing with the vacuum a bit to get some more brake power (still miserable)
determine front axle series III 109 <1980 or >1980
in Series Forum
Posted
ow carp, back in france, with plenty of seals and new driving members...
now it appears that the ring/collar thats pressed against the backplate of the brakes has come off and it looks bad. Oil seal was gone as well, which wasn't a supprise if you'd see the condition of the collar.... (sharp and abused).
Offcourse I haven't got one of these.... will have to clean the parts and leave it all till december (just here for a week).
(I might try to smoothen up the sharp edges with a dremel, but if it sticks to the seal and not to the item it's pressed on (so it will start rotating and eating in) I'll have more damage done...
is seems number 1 in this image is the broken part: