xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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As above if it has welded itself to gether you might need to get fairly brutal.
The stub axle is easily replaced and not overly expensive so at a certain point it might be best to sacrafice it.
was exactly my idea. see if you can angle grind into it (without going to deep) from a few directions and then chisel it open..... that might work....
Goodluck!
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does anyone have partnumbers for:
- diesel filter (RTC6079)
- airfilter (Currently I have the oil bath one, a suiltable paper filter number is also welcome)
- oil filter
- sump plug
- sump plug seal
- .... ?
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I'm looking for a list of part & partnumbers to do a round of simple maintenance.
What I'll buy without numbers:
- Engine oil (15w40)
- gearbox, reductionbox, axle oil (80W90 approx 10L should do)
What I need numbers for / have numbers for:
- diesel filter (RTC6079)
- airfilter (Currently I have the oil bath one, a suiltable paper filter number is also welcome)
- oil filter
- sump plug
- sump plug seal
- .... ?
What I do / have done seperate from basic maintenance:
- everything that seems broken leaking or otherwise. (eg. electrical issues, leaking clutch hose, leaking hub seal)
What basic maintenance am I missing?
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I've gotten myself a TirFor handwinch with 15 meters of cable. Should help me out all odd situations. Won't drag me trough a swamp though.
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My 109 series III has 3 tanks (was used for overlanding) 1 in the back (in use) and 2 under the seats with fillers under the seats, not in use.... will refurbish them one day.
Can make pictures begin juli if you are still looking for info by then.
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Is your steering that bad? If you've come from a modern car with rack and pinion, very direct steering, a Land Rover can feel a little vague, plus they do move a little left and right on bumpy roads due to the geometry of the linkages. We all get so used to it that we don't even notice it. Having said that, there are a lot of points at which play can develop (wheel bearings, swivels, tie rod ends, steering relay, drop arm, steering box), making for quite a dance as you go up the road.
I come from a Ford Transit mk5 2.5di, not exactly a race master. However when I approach a ~3.5 meter wide bridge on a small road I tend to brake to ~40 km/h to make sure I can get it over
With my transit I'd likely keep driving 80 km/h (or whatever I was driving before)
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Should pull 4000RPM - which for a LWB is about 65 - my 109 would - I didn't keep it there for long but 55 or so was a comfortable cruise wihout overdrive.
Steering should be light and surprisingly positive - even on 235x85x16 tyres. It shouldn't wander or be difficult to get round corners.
means I have some work then...
the steer play is quite big even after adjusting it to the max (before the wheel starts turning to heavy)
I dont have a RPM counter I believe
does make some RPM but not in forth! -
Hey I've got a Transit 2.5di (non turbo manual pump) and a series III 109 on 7.50/16R (the standard as far as I know)
Light slopes in middle france pose no problem to the transit at all, only a few longer heavier slopes will require me to gear to 4th or even 3rd.
Hoever my series III 2.25di seems to be dropping speed as soon as it sees a slope.
Top speed on nice long flat road seems ~50 Mph (~80-85 km/h) and up a slope it will drop to ~30 Mph forcing me into 3rd for every light slope.
Is this normal behaviour for a 2.25di? Anything I can do to make it pull better?
It has original oil-airfilter and the brake vacuum valve is in place.
Will replace the brake vacuum with a electric Hella up28 pump (from a volvo) somewhere soon.
I have no need for a higher top speed as te steering (even while tighened up) is crappy and sloppy, it would just be nice not to drop down that much on a silly slope.
It might even be a physical issue that prevents me from fully openeing the throttle..... ?? just a thought.
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The only thing that messed with my mind a few times is the HUGE turning circle of the series. Once on a track forget about turning around unless you run into a footballfield!
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the sliders (and especially the base) I find on images sticks out under the rear crossmember quite a bit. kills quite some drive in / out angle
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anyone experience with towbal winches / bakrak
The winch is placed on a plate that can be attached to a towbal.
question remains if a towbal can handle the power.
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Hey All,
What is considered an economic choice for a winch. I'm a solo driver. I don't drive extreme however the greenlaning here in France can be tricky. Tractors can create normal tracks and then suddenly deep tracks where my 109 will be lying on its diffs. Even though it looks 'easy' is can be a nasty stuck.
Last time (see 'getting out and about forum') I managed to get myself free with a chinese 4 ton hand whinch, although I don't trust that stupid thing, could snap anytime.
For now I was looking at a hi-jack (extreme) with a winch kit, the only thing I'd need then is a proper 4 meter chain. Combine that with a tree strap and my already here 4x4 towing strap should get me out of most situations.
Any good reasons to spend up to a 1000E for a front mounted electric winch? When I'm stuck I usually rather backup onto safe ground.
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For better illustration. here's a couple of pics from my setup. As you can clearly see from the paint scraped off the chassis there is no way to have the steering box on the outside for me, and also this indicates the sort of steering lock I have:
I personally didn't want to have my hands tied as to what tyres and wheels I could fit, especially seeing as mine is a S1 the body is narrower.
are the wheels mounted 'the other way around' for getting more steering room and widening the track?
As written in previous post I have the same scraping at the back of the right frontwheel runnin 7.5" on my 1980 series III 109.
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I'm only on 7.50's with this vehicle. And no real intention to run anything much bigger. Might go 235/85 as 7.50 choice is a bit limited or maybe a 255/85, but nothing wide or taller. My 'other' Landy has the bigger wheels, or least it will when it's finished.
bigger will touch the chassis I assume? (my 7.5's already touch the chassis on a hard right turn (on the right side)
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if.... if.... somethings happens and you need to order parts. There are French postal delivery groups but ordering direct from UK is faster!!!
I'm in France and I ordered the same set of seals from http://www.euro4x4parts.com/ and http://www.paddockspares.com/, paddock was faster. Both where the same crappy seals, ordered proper seals later on.
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Driving down a tractorlane in France I found a place where the tractors had dug a little deeper than was good for me. Front end of the car is lying on its spring hangars on the mud.
In the end a cheap ass chinese hand winch helped me out.... Although that was scary as hell, never know when the bugger breaks.
Now I'm considering:
- a decent winch on front bumper (wouldn't have helped me on this occasion as I would have had to pull the whole car trough the 'issue' instead of backing up)
- a highlift + winch kit to use the high jack as winch
any other idea's? are there good mobile electric winches?
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That's a great suggestion from Si, another option for achieving trip function which I read about when a guy made something similar for his motor bike was this:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12708
It's a real time clock with a little bit of non volatile memory which could be used to store trip data, plus a clock could be a nice extra string to the bow. w.r.t replacing odo with LCD, I know for what I've been doing I'd wondered about replacing the trip clock with a screen, freeing up the space behind it for a motor. The speedo face itself has the bars separating each digits so it could look pretty cool seeing a screen through that.
That's a great suggestion from Si, another option for achieving trip function which I read about when a guy made something similar for his motor bike was this:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12708
It's a real time clock with a little bit of non volatile memory which could be used to store trip data, plus a clock could be a nice extra string to the bow. w.r.t replacing odo with LCD, I know for what I've been doing I'd wondered about replacing the trip clock with a screen, freeing up the space behind it for a motor. The speedo face itself has the bars separating each digits so it could look pretty cool seeing a screen through that.
on the otherhand... microSD cards + reader for arduino ar cheap and offer huge amounts of space. You could log all you could even think about.
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According to the wiring diagram, main power comes from the unfused side of Fuse 1, via big brown wire to terminal 4 of the switch.
That's what I've noticed and reported in a earlier post somewhere (will try and look it up), that headlights (main beam and dipped beam, not day lights) are unfused!
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=90421&p=798560
see my one man rant from post #25 and on
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Worth throwing a fuse in-circuit while you're faffing with it, very early ownership experience of the 109 was the rear loom combusting
Thats still on my list. For my a big + goes from battery to killswitch in dash and on to starter motor (very loose connection there), from starter + back up in the dash.
That (believe brown) wire back up in the dash I'd like to fuse with ~30Amps, just to prevent fire.
Does anyone know the power drawn by the starter? I might also fuse the + near the battery before the killswitch...... or isn't that usefull?
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always have a MacLight and ductape in the back. Could always tape that up on the roofrack
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strip, you'll never get that chance again
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for my sIII the flexhose was broken. a bugger to reach but not that expensive to replace.
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thanks. In that case I'll leave the axle where it is. It will have a better life than in my back yard for the next 5+ years
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Hello All,
I've been offered a Disco <1993 front axle (10-splines) with disc brakes and ABS.
Is this any use for putting under a series III 109? or is there that much work involved that I'd better just start my restoration and think about these kind of odd projects lateron (or never)?
does make some RPM but not in forth!
Did the military use S3 109 Station wagons?
in Military Forum
Posted
my LHD 109 series III has:
- 4 oval holes + caps + the safari roof
- a metal plate on the LH wing close to the window, gives my perfect access to my clutch fluid, thought it was ment for that.
- hand throttle (is a 2.25di.) though
no towing electrics, no painted gearbox or otherparts.
specials it does have:
3 diesel tanks. under both front seats and in the back (main).