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xychix

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Posts posted by xychix

    Noisy Gearbox

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Thanks gents. I suspect input bearing is a good candidate. When I dip the clutch with the box in neutral you can hear whatever is rumbling coast to a stop, and in theory that has to be the input shaft as it'll be the only thing moving when the engine is idling.

    I'll obtain a good second hand box and swap it in, then I can strip this one down at my leisure and see what the problem is. Clutch pedal definitely needs some oil on it!

    if its the input bearing I'd expect the problem in gear AND in neutral with a depressed clutch.

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    2.25 diesel, oil level is fine (not at F but at L, i assume LEVEL, as there is also an E all the way down the dipstick)

    Oil pressure light doesn't light up so pressure should be fine.

    I'm trying to work out if the oil pressure gauge in center of dash is original or aftermarket and how to check the gauge and sensor to work as should.

    The oil pressure light does come on at EM-stop, this seems normal..... or actually this tells me the brakes aren't that bad for a series III.

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    based on 2 orange, 2 red, 1 green, 1 blue LED and 1 4.7K ohm resistor I've cooked a trailer-socket testing tool.

    Cut of connector from an old caravan.

    Only thing it won't do it signal bad earth as an LED only needs minimal connection.

    Will wire the thing up tonight and test it on my functioning van (ford transit 1999 2.5di banana tomorrow, will soon make a topic whether or not the 2.5 di can mate up to LR gearbox)

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Steve, thanks, fixed the earth... after studying the diagram for a while this are my notes:

    ELECTRICS:
    - find brown wire from starter to main ALL. FUSE @60A / 100A? (just to prevent fire, however main killkey-center dash should take care of this, still...)
    - check fuse 5-6 and wire to direction-indicator lights. (often don't work. sometimes do! broken relay?, bad contact before split Left/Right)
    - Fuse extra hot-wire from battery for aux.
    - [nice to have] relay box for headlights.
    - wee whats fuse 3-4 is used for as its empty by design
    - find rear GR to G (direction indicators) to pull a signal for trailer socket
    - find rear GP to GP (stoplight) on one of the two sides to pull a signal for trailer socket
    - find rear RB to R (tail light) on one of the two sides to pull a signal for trailers socket (note modern vehicles have often 2 feeds from both taillights)
    - [nice to have] relay box for trailer
    note originally unfused:
    - horn (connected to fuse on but on the wrong side.)
    - inspection sockets on dash
    - lights (dip, main, tail, side, dashboard, ) NOTE: Break lights and warning beam (main beam on pull of steering switch) ARE fused :P
    WHY WHY WHY?
    why 2 brown wires from alternator to 12+ on starter? 1 thick one would be better I assume.
    still no idea how the oil pressure gauge should work as there is no mentioning of it in the charts, the oil pressure light seems to work and goes on at an emergency stop and if the brakes have a good day :)
    A dangling red wire appeared to be my side lights (we call them city-lights in holland city&dipped&main), they aren't on the side after all :P

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    The earth for the dash lights needs cleaning .

    Where should i find this? on the outside under the hood? against firewall where seems to be some sort of thick coil where quite q few wires go.

    I thought this was a resistor but as I measure no resistance to ground I assume this is the main ground connection of the firewall?

    please don't say "behind the dash"... it's like a birdsnest there.

    Most color coded wires seem intact other than a bypass for a heater and a bypass for headlights and some extra wires leading to center dash for radio/cb-radio.

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    bon, suddenly direction indicators back working.

    indicator left + dash indicator left work perfect. (same for right), however if i enable the dash-backlight the left indicator blinks, the left-indicator-dashlight glows and the RIGHT-indicator-dashlight blinks.... :wacko:

    Other than that all seems to work, even center dash voltmeter, fuel, temp etc.

    on stationairy oil pressure stays low at ~10 lbs, pushing the trottle a little lowers the pressure even more. Do i need to take action on this?

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    well, the MAIN 12+ (even used for the starter) goes trough the dash (and the main kill switch in center of dash, appears not to be a mass-switch but a hot-switch after all).

    seems the 12+ for all the rest is tapped from the 12+ on the starter :wacko: and goed back up to the dash.

    the 12+ for the starter solenoid falls of when you blow at it. (no time to fix it now but good to know for when it won't start.....)

    I wanted to fuse all but seems the wire from starter + get's into dash right behind the dashboard which is hard to reach, i might fuse it immediately after the starter motor + (not before :P ) at 60A.

    What I haven't found yet is the alternator/dynamo feeding back to +, might want to keep that outside the "inside carp" as well..

    one molten wire. Brown-Orange, appears to be the heater.... but what is electric at the heater... the fan I assume?

    main goal is to fix the indicator lights to hit the road. (likely the indicator relay is dead now...) rest will follow after I've finished the garage (10.5 meter x 6 meter, ~6 meter high from concrete blocks that will be the house of my beast, I'm at ~4 meters now)

    I'll keep a licht, a multimeter, some copper wire, and some red biking lights for the rear in the car. Just to make sure I can go to fancy restaurants in my LaRo and blame the car for the horrendous smell. :hysterical:

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Probably a bad earth behind dash.

    likely, Is there 1 earth connection behind dash? I've found one on the right side (i've got a Left Hand Drive)

    But I've also removed over 2 meters of unused cable (all white, whether is was signal,12+ or earth.. all white) already.

    Seems the glowplug-button and mass-key in the center of the dash aren't factory default? correct?

    There have been several new cables put in that do 'hot-at-key-on' and 'always-hot' and 'hot on mass-key'.

    I'd rather opt to tap into 1 hot-on-key-on wire, fuse that 2A, and have that steer a relay that eats straight from battery (fused 60A). This way you can keep it all apart and undo is easily.

    I've found 1 wire (running from behind dash to center oil pressure meter) that seemed to carry 12V at ignition that was worn and bare metal over 1cm.

    Other than that is looks like spaghetti but ok.

    Only a number of cut wires

    1 bypass for headlights, checked it and this WHITE cable taps back into the right cable under the hood.

    1 'dead end' purple/something. As it all worked 'a little, for a while'. It just goes off and on.

    problems:

    - headlighs tend to turn off and go back on when flipping the switch off and back on.

    - fuel and temp worked... just of after today they broke)

    - turning lights are fooked (work / don't work @random)

    - headlight flash works, perm-on differers, seems to work on even days and doesn't on uneven...... :blink:

    - volt meter in dash did work until today....

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    I'm not that affraid of the wireing. all did work a while ago, something must have changed (hotwire dashlight shorting against hotwire indicator?? or a mass issue so using the least resistant path to mass, trough the indicator bulbs?? )

    pretty sure when I open it alle up and it's 'hanging' relaxed all will be fine :)

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Clutch cable? You have a hydraulic clutch, so pipes all the way. Your biggest problem is likely to be the wiring, which no doubt has been hacked about over the years. Fortunately the wiring diagram is basic and easy to follow.

    Les.

    I ment flex hose against the firewall, was leaking fluid.

    bought a 109 series III

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Bon, replaced 1 hub seal, replaced clutch cable, redid some electrics (still not good as from time to time all electra goes off, flipping the dashlight makes the 2 direction indicators light up a bit...)

    But i got the chance for some driving here in the wet french grasslands and was happy with the cababilities. over a sumpy grass lane even in 2wd, down a muddy hill.... piece of cake.... and back up that same long hill, a bit slippery and could feel the slowdown while my M/T tyres where searching for grip but in 2nd LOW I made it up :)

    running 7.50R16 Fedima F/MUD

    series III replace clutch-flex-hose

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    job done. All together it was doable even tough it was hell to undo the end of the flexhose that is all the way behind the engine.

    I'm learning on landies and get some cool yoga-moves for free I guess.

    Used a lump of wood to keep the clutch-pedal down while hand tightening the bleed nipple, removing the hose, tighten it with a 11mm socket and releasing the clutch back up. Drives fine now.

    Only odd thing is the mount for the deep end of the clutchcable on the inspection hatch for the clutch... anyone a picture for me from that area? (i've got a LHD 109 sIII). I'm assuming the mount isn't original (and it wasn't mounted either as the upper bolt of the inspection hatch was missing.)

    series III replace clutch-flex-hose

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    How likely is it that I can replace the clutch flex hoses without breaking the piping?

    thing is I'm near the Laro for 2 weeks in december and i'd love to drive it a bit. Needs a new flexibile hose. When it goes wrong my next chance is april 2015...... :(

    I'm affraid the hose is tight and I squize the pipe to bits when undoing... any hints on how to do this properly?

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